First thing to know, is that is NOT possible to make a round tour of Salina.
Because of geomorphology.
There is a main road on the east side, where is Santa Maria (where likely you arrive by
ferry). The road go on the northern side to Malfa. From here there is a minor road to
Pollara (do not miss it).
Just out of Malfa the main road go, through the mountains, directly southward to Leni and Rinella.
(look at the pic a map of Salina)
Pollara is a little village, hanged on a cliff. It lay in the crater of an ancient volcano, which broke in half and tumbled deep the sea.
Under the village there is an access to the sea, where once were the boats of the fishermans.
(see the others pic)
ferries to salina arrive in this harbour,the main one.
aliscafi,express boats for passengers only,arrive here too,but also in rinella...
a good idea is to land in santa marina and leave in rinella.so,you'll follow the sun the whole day to arrive at sunset and enjoy your malvasia in rinella....
2km from sta marina on the way to malfa and rinella,a deserted village of fishers with its houses hung on to hillside above the sea.....
Il Delfino is the loviest restaurant on the island! Lisa, the chef & owner is an exquisite cook! She comes from a long line of chefs and her food is truly homemade cooking! You will not be disappointed. Real food. Real people. Her brother, Carmelo, has a restaurant next door and her sister owns Portobello Restaurant, just as you get off the boat at the dock. You must visit all three, as they are the best places to eat on the island! They also have hotels nearby...gorgeous, with beautiful views of the ocean... They were truly the loveliest people in Salina!!!
Favorite Dish: Lisa's pasta is homemade and delicious! Everything is homemade and made with love...so, feel free to order anything you like! You will love the food, the atmosphere, the view of the ocean and especially the chef!
If you are planning to visit Salina island with your motorcycle, you need to take care at the ferry service.
(take also a look at my tip on limited access to the tourist vehicles)
I was travelling there with my Vespa scooter, so I never minded about to book the ferry, and I never had problems... except that in Salina.
I went from Lipari to Salina with my Vespa for a one day round-trip. No problem to go. But the last ferry going back to Lipari had no room for my little Vespa!
In high season the islands are very overcrowded.
So be careful and plan the transport.
What I did?
I bought the ticket for the next day ride (I had to compel a lot with the ticket office anyhow) , and instead I went on board with my Vespa on the last ferry of the day !-)
in pollara,you'll find the pink house where stays pablo neruda (alias philippe noiret) in the film "il postino"
near "fossa delle felci" (=col of ferns) 962m.
a lot of forest paths...great,well indicated by signs.