Il Duomo - Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence

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The Duomo is a bit of a Johnny-come-lately compared to what occupied its spot before. A flight of stairs near the entrance leads down to the scavi of Santa Reparata; an early Christian/Medieval church which stood here from somewhere around the 4th century until the new cathedral was constructed over the top. The old basilica had in turn been built upon the ruins of Roman houses, underwent at least 3 reconstructions, and served as a burial crypt for some more distinguished of the Florentine clergy (two 11-century popes and some bishops) as well as a member of the Medici family and Filippo Brunelleschi: brilliant Renaissance architect and mastermind behind that dome that crowns the cathedral.

A modest fee allows you a wander in this dim 1,600 year-old, subterranean world of ancient mosaic pavements, Medieval tomb slabs, crumbling frescoes and collected artifacts. They’ve done a nice job of providing smooth walkways through the ruins, and models/signs for illustrating the former basilica’s layout and helping you understand what it is you’re looking at.

See the website for hours and current admission fees. Note: the scavi is considered a sacred site so proper attire is required: no bare knees or shoulders. Also, no flash, tripods or cell phone use is allowed. I walked right in and bought a ticket at the desk: far fewer were interested in what lay below than on the surface.

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Well, THIS was different.

With a few exceptions, I’d come to expect most Italian churches to be hiding fantastic interiors and oodles of priceless art behind plain, unassuming facades? The Duomo blew that notion all to smithereens. Florence’s cathedral is a massive, mind-blowing, polychrome riot of white, rose and green marble, ornamental carvings, reliefs and statuary - which is probably why it took 600 years (1296 - 1887) to finish the thing. Zowie, if it’s this crazy on the outside, what’s inside the doors must be just INSANE? It takes a minute for your eyes to adjust to the gloom and then you see a huge, echoing expanse of... not much at all: a few frescoes; a couple of tombs; a scattering of paintings. Its only abundance is the gaggle of tourists desperately trying to find something, anything to point their cameras at. They have to do some digging but they’ll find some treasures if they persevere:

• 44 beautiful windows - some of them designed by Renaissance notables such as Donatello and Ghiberti (of the baptistry’s famous doors)

• Rare, 15-century clock that records the hours of the liturgical day (‘midnight' being sunset)

• Lovely Vasari-designed fresco of “The Last Judgement" in the cupola; unfortunately only partially visible from behind security ropes

• Gorgeous 16th-century marble pavements - if you can see them under the hundreds of tourist-cluttering feet

Throw in some touches by Della Robbia and Gaddi and, well, there ya go. So why the baffling lack of painted/chiseled/gilded fandangles in this most famous of Firenze’s churches? One reason is that the great flood of 1966 destroyed or badly damaged many of its former decorative objects. Another is that it is a supposed reflection of the infamous Savanarola's - he of the "Bonfire of the Vanities” - austerity reforms of the 15th century. Maybe, but that wouldn’t account for the curious lack of extensive frescoes so prevalent in other Renaissance-era churches.

Whatever the case, the exterior is where you’ll be filling up your memory card, and Brunelleschi’s miraculous dome and Giotto’s campanile are often best admired from Piazzale Michelangelo or other high points around the city. Entrance to the Duomo is free but other related buildings and attractions - campanile; baptistry; crypt; dome; museum containing pieces rescued/restored after the flood - are not so see the website for hours and ticket prices. NOTE: for all of the attractions listed, you must follow the dress code required for visiting Italian churches: no bare knees or shoulders. Also, no flash, tripods or cell phone use is allowed.

Photographers, the exterior is especially dramatic at night, and here’s a nice website with some great snaps and a couple of helpful shooting tips.

http://www.digital-images.net/Gallery/Scenic/Florence/Duomo/Scenic-Sculp/scenic-sculp.html

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If you just came from the inside of the Cathedral, then you know how absolutely magnificent and massive this church is.

If you are able to climb 463 steps, sometimes rather steep, and are not afraid of heights or claustrophobic, then I highly recommend you make the trek up to the top of the dome. Not only is the view magnificent on nice days, but you actually walk between the two shell structure that makes up the dome, while having the chance to see parts of how this engineering marvel was built.

As you make the climb, try to imagine being a workman on site and having to make this climb every day! Brunelleschi didn’t allow his workers to go home for lunch – they had to bring their lunch up with them – since he didn’t want them getting too tired after lunch from the climb. And they drank wine for lunch (it was safer than the water in those days – but they did have the wine diluted so they wouldn’t get tipsy at lunch and create a safety hazard).

To climb the dome, you enter from the north side of the Cathedral – if you are standing in front of the church and looking at it, walk around the building to your left – you will see the entrance clearly marked. Enter that side door and go around to the inside. The cashier is inside the Cathedral (€8 for this great exercise – at least that was the price in January 2012). After that, start the climb!

Initially you walk up spiraled steps that are squared off – wide and you are thinking: this isn’t too bad. A short rest break can be taken at a little stop along the way to look at some old statues. No problem. Keep going and you find the steps do get narrower and the spiraling becomes circular. Before you know it you come out to the first part of the dome, the lower part where the stained glass windows are. You walk partially around this – there is acrylic so that you can see down but there is no way you can fall. Take your time and admire the windows. Be sure to look up at the frescoed ceiling, although later you will be much closer to it.

You exit this portion through another door on the other side and continue to climb upwards. As you go upwards, you will begin to see the two sections of the dome, beams, and the brickwork. It is amazing to think how this was made so long ago and still stands. You will come to the level with the frescoes, but this is actually the exit – so bypass this door and continue to head up to the top of the dome. The steps get narrower and steeper and a ladder at the very top that takes you to the lantern and outside at the top of the dome. Feel free to walk around the lantern and enjoy the view of Florence! Obviously, if you can save this for a clear day, you’ll have a wonderful view of the region.

When you are finished looking at the city, you head back down the ladder and follow the exit signs. After a short descent, you come back to that exit door on the fresco level – go through that door and enjoy the frescoes painted by Vasari up close. Notice how huge they are, not highly detailed and in places exaggerated so that the paintings would look right from the ground level. Be sure to look down (if you dare) at how small the people are below! When you are finished with this level, continue around to the door and take the steps down. Along the way will be a display of tools used in the building process.

Eventually you end up back in the Cathedral, tired and with possibly sore knees and legs, but satisfied that you conquered the dome climb and saw something that people could only marvel at centuries ago. There is a door right there to exit the building, which brings you out on the other side of the Cathedral.

Open from 8.30 am to 7.00 pm
Saturdays: 8.30 am – 5.40 pm
1st Saturday: 8.30 – 4.00 pm
May 1st: 8.30 am – 5.00 pm
Closed January 1, January 6, Thu-Fri-Sat Holy Week, Easter, April 25, June 24, August 15, September 8, November 1, Mon-Tue of the first week of Advent, Christmas, December 26

Note: If you are interested in an interesting book that explains the building of the dome without too much technical details - meaning it is easy to read for a non-engineer - then grab a copy of Ross King's Brunelleschi's Dome before you head to Florence (or pick up a copy while there - I saw it in the Cathedral Museum bookstore).


Wasn’t that spectacular?!? The weather on the day I was there was perfect and I was able to get some great photos of Florence and the surrounding areas. Speaking of photos, there are a number of places where one can get good shots of Florence.

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The Florence Cathedral is the centerpiece of the city and has been for centuries. Built with grand ideas, it sat dome-less for nearly 100 years. The builders were sure that someone in the future would have the technological know-how to build the massive dome it required to complete the building. It became an embarrassment for the great city when it sat unused and incomplete for so many years. That is, until Brunelleschi got the job. But that is getting ahead of ourselves…

The Cathedral was initially built in 1298 and is dedicated to the Madonna of Florence – Santa Maria del Fiore. The initial architect was Arnolfo di Cambrio who, after he died, was followed by others. The huge cathedral is complete with niches for statues (now copies since most originals are in the Cathedral Museum). The current façade is actually fairly new, having been redone in 1887 and matches the Baptistry and the Bell Tower.

In 1418, Brunelleschi won the competition to complete the dome. Very secretive and protective of his ideas, he would not divulge how he would do this to the committee overseeing the commission. He stood an egg on end (by crushing the bottom of it) to prove his point – that if he were to show them the plans, the concept would become obvious and anyone could take it away from him.

The dome is an engineering marvel. It is actually a double shell made of brick put together in a herringbone pattern for added stability. Because of the size of the dome, Brunelleschi could not use standard scaffolding (and his contract would not allow it). After 16 years, Brunelleschi proved the doubters wrong and the dome was completed, the church consecrated and Florence the art capitol of the world. (I’ve added a separate tip about climbing to the top of the dome – something I highly recommend.)

Be sure to walk inside the Cathedral and look around. It is huge. Walk underneath the dome and look up. The frescoes on the ceiling are done by Vasari. If you look closely, you’ll see clear acrylic near the stained glass windows and then higher near the frescoes – these are areas that the dome climb will take you to (and beyond) for up close looks at the work.

An interesting and educational video about the dome can be found on the Khan Academy website.

As for Renaissance art, there is a wonderful Paolo Uccello fresco on the left hand side wall after you enter the Cathedral. Actually, you will see two frescoes that look very similar – both are memorials to people and have the appearance of being statues. These memorials are to honor two condottieri (hired mercenaries): the one with the green background is a memorial to Niccolo da Tolentino by artist Andrea del Castagno and the one with the red background is more well known, the memorial to Sir John Hawkwood, a famous English mercenary, and done by Uccello.
If you look behind at the west wall (where you entered the Cathedral), you can see a 24 hour clock that was also painted by Uccello with the four heads of the prophets on it.

Near the altar in the apse and the north and south sacristy’s are works by Lucca della Robbia, Ghiberti, and possibly Giotto (although more likely to his students).

Throughout the Cathedral are portraits of Brunelleschi, Giotto, Dante, and others. Actually, Brunelleschi is buried in the Cathedral and his tomb can be seen from the bookstore on your way to visit the excavations of Santa Reparata, an ancient cathedral.

Open from 10 am - 5 pm
Thursdays: 10 am - 4.30 pm
Saturdays: 10 am - 4.45 pm
Sundays and religious holidays: 1.30 - 4.45 pm
1st Saturday of the month: 10 am - 3.30 pm
January 1, Easter & Christmas: 3.30 - 4.45 pm
Closed January 6.

Admission is free – but be considerate as this is a church.

Of course, once you’ve walked all around on the inside and looked up at the dome, you really should get up there and have a closer look by climbing up to the dome and seeing Brunelleschi’s work up close. Let’s climb the dome…

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The Florence Baptistry or Battistero di San Giovanni (Baptistry of St. John) is a religious building which has the status of a minor basilica.
It located in Piazza del Duomo, right in front of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, it is one of the most important monuments in Florence.
The Baptistery, dedicated to Florence's patron saint, has an octagonal plan and an octagonal lantern with a cupola. Outside it is clad in geometrically patterned colored marble, white Carrara marble and green Prato marble that is typical of Florentine Romanesque architecture.
The golden East Doors (facing the Duomo) are also known as the Gates of Paradise after a famous quotation by Michelangelo. They were also commissioned to Ghiberti and depict scenes from the Old Testament.

Full euro 5,00
Opening hours
From 12.15 p.m. to 7.00 p.m.
Sunday and 1st Saturday of the month from 8.30 a.m. to 2.00 p.m.
Closed on 1st January, Easter, 8 September, 24th December and Christmas

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Giotto’s Campanile is a free-standing campanile that is part of the complex of buildings that make up Florence Cathedral on the Piazza del Duomo.
Standing adjacent the Basilica of Santa Maria del Fiore and the Baptistry of St. John, the tower is one of the showpieces of the Florentine Gothic architecture with its design by Giotto, its rich sculptural decorations and the polychrome marble encrustations.

This slender structure stands on a square plan with a side of 14.45 meters (47.41 ft). It attains a height of 84.7 meters (277.9 ft) sustained by four polygonal buttresses at the corners. These four vertical lines are crossed by four horizontal lines, dividing the tower in five levels.

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The Gothic interior is vast and gives an empty impression. The relative bareness of the church corresponds with the austerity of religious life, as preached by Girolamo Savonarola.
Many decorations in the church have been lost in the course of time, or have been transferred to the Museum Opera del Duomo, such as the magnificent cantorial pulpits (the singing galleries for the choristers) of Luca della Robbia and Donatello (have a look at my OBP tip “Florence in Moscow).
As this cathedral was built with funds from the public, some important works of art in this church honor illustrious men and military leaders of Florence:
Dante Before the City of Florence by Domenico di Michelino (1465).
Funerary Monument to Sir John Hawkwood by Paolo Uccello (1436).
Equestrian statue of Niccolò da Tolentino by Andrea del Castagno (1456).
Busts of Giotto (by Benedetto da Maiano),
Brunelleschi (by Buggiano - 1447),
Marsilio Ficino, and Antonio Squarcialupi (a most famous organist).
These busts all date from the 15th and the 16th century.

You can watch my 2 min 45 sec Video Florence Dome out of my Youtube channel or here on VT.

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The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore (Basilica of Saint Mary of the Flower) or the Duomo, as it is ordinarily called, was begun in 1296 in the Gothic style to the design of Arnolfo di Cambio and completed structurally in 1436 with the dome engineered by Filippo Brunelleschi.
The exterior of the basilica is faced with polychrome marble panels in various shades of green and pink bordered by white and has an elaborate 19th century Gothic Revival façade by Emilio De Fabris.
The cathedral complex, located in Piazza del Duomo, includes the Baptistery and Grotto’s Campanile. The three buildings are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site covering the historic centre of Florence and are a major attraction to tourists visiting the region of Tuscany.
The basilica is one of Italy's largest churches, and until development of new structural materials in the modern era, the dome was the largest in the world. It remains the largest brick dome ever constructed.

Piazza Duomo
Florence (FI)
Free entrance
Opening hours
Open from 10 am - 5 pm
Thursdays: 10 am - 4.30 pm
Saturdays: 10 am - 4.45 pm
Sundays and religious holidays: 1.30 - 4.45 pm
1st Saturday of the month: 10 am - 3.30 pm
January 1, Easter & Christmas: 3.30 - 4.45 pm
Days of closure
Closed January 6

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It was top of our list from the moment we arrived in Florence and its well worth spending a few hours in the Piazza admiring one of the most recognizable symbols of Renaissance architecture.

The gothic style and delicate facade make this building a must see while in Florence.

We viewed the interior of the cathedral (which is free) before climbing the dome for a close up view of the fresco. Climbing the dome is hard work, the walkways are very narrow and its not suitible for people with a phobia of heights.

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The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore is the cathedral church (or Duomo) of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Florence, noted for its distinctive dome.

Its name ("Saint Mary of the Flower") refers to the lily, symbol of Florence, or to the old town name Fiorenza.

The cathedral complex includes the church proper, the Battistero di San Giovanni (Florence), built in Florence after Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella.