The Florence Cathedral is the centerpiece of the city and has been for centuries. Built with grand ideas, it sat dome-less for nearly 100 years. The builders were sure that someone in the future would have the technological know-how to build the massive dome it required to complete the building. It became an embarrassment for the great city when it sat unused and incomplete for so many years. That is, until Brunelleschi got the job. But that is getting ahead of ourselves…
The Cathedral was initially built in 1298 and is dedicated to the Madonna of Florence – Santa Maria del Fiore. The initial architect was Arnolfo di Cambrio who, after he died, was followed by others. The huge cathedral is complete with niches for statues (now copies since most originals are in the Cathedral Museum). The current façade is actually fairly new, having been redone in 1887 and matches the Baptistry and the Bell Tower.
In 1418, Brunelleschi won the competition to complete the dome. Very secretive and protective of his ideas, he would not divulge how he would do this to the committee overseeing the commission. He stood an egg on end (by crushing the bottom of it) to prove his point – that if he were to show them the plans, the concept would become obvious and anyone could take it away from him.
The dome is an engineering marvel. It is actually a double shell made of brick put together in a herringbone pattern for added stability. Because of the size of the dome, Brunelleschi could not use standard scaffolding (and his contract would not allow it). After 16 years, Brunelleschi proved the doubters wrong and the dome was completed, the church consecrated and Florence the art capitol of the world. (I’ve added a separate tip about climbing to the top of the dome – something I highly recommend.)
Be sure to walk inside the Cathedral and look around. It is huge. Walk underneath the dome and look up. The frescoes on the ceiling are done by Vasari. If you look closely, you’ll see clear acrylic near the stained glass windows and then higher near the frescoes – these are areas that the dome climb will take you to (and beyond) for up close looks at the work.
As for Renaissance art, there is a wonderful Paolo Uccello fresco on the left hand side wall after you enter the Cathedral. Actually, you will see two frescoes that look very similar – both are memorials to people and have the appearance of being statues. These memorials are to honor two condottieri (hired mercenaries): the one with the green background is a memorial to Niccolo da Tolentino by artist Andrea del Castagno and the one with the red background is more well known, the memorial to Sir John Hawkwood, a famous English mercenary, and done by Uccello.
If you look behind at the west wall (where you entered the Cathedral), you can see a 24 hour clock that was also painted by Uccello with the four heads of the prophets on it.
Near the altar in the apse and the north and south sacristy’s are works by Lucca della Robbia, Ghiberti, and possibly Giotto (although more likely to his students).
Throughout the Cathedral are portraits of Brunelleschi, Giotto, Dante, and others. Actually, Brunelleschi is buried in the Cathedral and his tomb can be seen from the bookstore on your way to visit the excavations of Santa Reparata, an ancient cathedral.
Open from 10 am - 5 pm
Thursdays: 10 am - 4.30 pm
Saturdays: 10 am - 4.45 pm
Sundays and religious holidays: 1.30 - 4.45 pm
1st Saturday of the month: 10 am - 3.30 pm
January 1, Easter & Christmas: 3.30 - 4.45 pm
Closed January 6.
Admission is free – but be considerate as this is a church.
Updated Jan 23, 2012
Address: Piazza Duomo
If you just came from the inside of the Cathedral, then you know how absolutely magnificent and massive this church is.
If you are able to climb 463 steps, sometimes rather steep, and are not afraid of heights or claustrophobic, then I highly recommend you make the trek up to the top of the dome. Not only is the view magnificent on nice days, but you actually walk between the two shell structure that makes up the dome, while having the chance to see parts of how this engineering marvel was built.
As you make the climb, try to imagine being a workman on site and having to make this climb every day! Brunelleschi didn’t allow his workers to go home for lunch – they had to bring their lunch up with them – since he didn’t want them getting too tired after lunch from the climb. And they drank wine for lunch (it was safer than the water in those days – but they did have the wine diluted so they wouldn’t get tipsy at lunch and create a safety hazard).
To climb the dome, you enter from the north side of the Cathedral – if you are standing in front of the church and looking at it, walk around the building to your left – you will see the entrance clearly marked. Enter that side door and go around to the inside. The cashier is inside the Cathedral (€8 for this great exercise – at least that was the price in January 2012). After that, start the climb!
Initially you walk up spiraled steps that are squared off – wide and you are thinking: this isn’t too bad. A short rest break can be taken at a little stop along the way to look at some old statues. No problem. Keep going and you find the steps do get narrower and the spiraling becomes circular. Before you know it you come out to the first part of the dome, the lower part where the stained glass windows are. You walk partially around this – there is acrylic so that you can see down but there is no way you can fall. Take your time and admire the windows. Be sure to look up at the frescoed ceiling, although later you will be much closer to it.
You exit this portion through another door on the other side and continue to climb upwards. As you go upwards, you will begin to see the two sections of the dome, beams, and the brickwork. It is amazing to think how this was made so long ago and still stands. You will come to the level with the frescoes, but this is actually the exit – so bypass this door and continue to head up to the top of the dome. The steps get narrower and steeper and a ladder at the very top that takes you to the lantern and outside at the top of the dome. Feel free to walk around the lantern and enjoy the view of Florence! Obviously, if you can save this for a clear day, you’ll have a wonderful view of the region.
When you are finished looking at the city, you head back down the ladder and follow the exit signs. After a short descent, you come back to that exit door on the fresco level – go through that door and enjoy the frescoes painted by Vasari up close. Notice how huge they are, not highly detailed and in places exaggerated so that the paintings would look right from the ground level. Be sure to look down (if you dare) at how small the people are below! When you are finished with this level, continue around to the door and take the steps down. Along the way will be a display of tools used in the building process.
Eventually you end up back in the Cathedral, tired and with possibly sore knees and legs, but satisfied that you conquered the dome climb and saw something that people could only marvel at centuries ago. There is a door right there to exit the building, which brings you out on the other side of the Cathedral.
Open from 8.30 am to 7.00 pm
Saturdays: 8.30 am – 5.40 pm
1st Saturday: 8.30 – 4.00 pm
May 1st: 8.30 am – 5.00 pm
Closed January 1, January 6, Thu-Fri-Sat Holy Week, Easter, April 25, June 24, August 15, September 8, November 1, Mon-Tue of the first week of Advent, Christmas, December 26
Note: If you are interested in an interesting book that explains the building of the dome without too much technical details - meaning it is easy to read for a non-engineer - then grab a copy of Ross King's Brunelleschi's Dome before you head to Florence (or pick up a copy while there - I saw it in the Cathedral Museum bookstore).
Updated Jan 23, 2012
Basilica di Santa Trinita is the mother church of the Vallumbrosan Order of monks, founded in 1092 by a Florentine nobleman. The church is famous for its Sassetti Chapel containing frescoes from Domenico Ghirlandaio who is one of the most estimated frescoe painters of all times. His frescoes are ranked as the masterworks among 15th century paintings.
The basilica was constructed in 1258-1280 but multiple reconstructions occured later on. The 17th century wooden doors were carved to recall saints of the Vallumbrosan order.
The Santa Trinita Maesta by Cimabue was once at the high altar of the church, now exibited at the Uffizi Gallery.
Written Oct 8, 2011
Address: Via Tornabuoni
It's like going to Paris and not see the Eiffel Tower, it's like going to New York and not see the Statue of Liberty or going to Athens and not see the Acropolis. Everyone who has been to Florence (Firenze) will say you gotta see the Duomo! It is spectacular! But, on our trip to Italy, we saw many spectacular churches and cathedrals. The preservation of history and hosting many visitors from around the world is a feat in itself. The church is HUMONGOUS! There is absolutely no way to get a photo of the entire building. The phenomenon on the construction of the Duomo is hard to imagine. If you really think about it, there are no supports in the center and just the sheer curvature of the enormous dome structure keeps itself up and for hundreds and hundreds of years!
I will suggest the climb to the top. It's not easy but if you think you can do it, you should. The views are amazing from up top. There is a separate entrance to the side to make the climb.
Please see my travelogue for more pics!
Updated Aug 12, 2011
Address: Can't miss it!
Website: http://www.duomofirenze.it/index-eng.htm
As I have said many times and repeat here the structures made to "house" and "present gods" are made to be impressive, and the Duomo here in Florence is no different.
From the imposing front entrance seen in the first photo, through the second and third photos showing the sheer size of the structure with its various portals. The fourth photo shows some of the scaffolding that was covering various parts of this emmense building when we visited.
The last photo shows the detached tower that runs as high as the cupola itself. Here in the Duomo, you have to pay for the priviledge to climb the cupola and then pay AGAIN to climb the tower.
Updated Jul 24, 2011
From the stairs to the gallery you will find some nice views (photos 1+2) out over the rooftops of Florence, this in itself would be sufficient to climb those 400+stairs.
The third photo shows the open plaza adjoining the Duomo and where the tower is found.
The fourth photo shows one of the beautifuly carved wooden doors leading into the main area of the Duomo. This one was special for me since it was inscribed in Hebrew (the language in Israel where I live), the original language of the ancient religious texts.
The last photo shows the entranc door and arch, impressive as most buildings belonging to a group of structures whose purpose is to "impress" upon one the importance of the religion it serves. This particular Duomo (cathedral) is actually less ornate than many we have seen in Italy, France, Spain, Portugal and other Europen countries.
Updated Jul 24, 2011
While up in the gallery, don't forget to look DOWN, not only up at the Cupola. Looking down and seeing all the small ant like activity below makes you realize just how high you are.
Things to see on the way UP to the gallery are views over the city and this pantheon of saints in a closed off gallery about half way up.
Of course the main floor does not lack for artistic details and things to see, like this clock and floor detail.
Updated Jul 23, 2011
If you want to learn what Heaven and Hell will be like, then visit the Duomo here in Florence. You will also get a chance to see some views of the rooftops of Florence, I will put some photos later.
Only two words of caution about climbing to the topmost gallery to view this, first is that there are over 400 stairs, the way is narrow and not well ventilated, second is that the viewwing gallery itself is very narrow and if you are slightly overweight it may cause problems. Also the plastic protective barrier around the gallery is about 3 meters high and very scratched and faded making it difficult to photograph the cupola.
http://goitaly.about.com/od/florencemuseums/a/duomo-things-to-see.htm
Written Jul 23, 2011
Website: http://www.visitflorence.com/florence-churches/duomo.html
The Duomo is the number one must see in Florence.
The building of the Cathedral began in 1296 and took nearly 150 years to complete.
It is a pretty fabulous sight, with its stunning white, green and pink marble facade.
Its huge interior is very sparsely decorated which is quite a contract to the outside.
It is free to visit the Cathedral, with a charge to visit the underground crypt (around 3 euros)
Also as part of your visit you can climb to the top of the Dome (for around 6 euros) , for amazing views across Florence.
Updated Apr 4, 2011
Address: Piazza del Duomo
When you are inside the fabulous Florence Cathedral, wander down to the far end and look up!
The inside of the huge Dome is covered with frescoes depicting what appears to be Heaven and Hell.
It is pretty spectacular......though some of the images are a bit gross!
If you decide to climb to the outside-top of the Dome, half way through the climb you will pop out and find yourself up near the top of the inner Dome, where you can get a much better look at the frescoes.
Updated Apr 4, 2011
Address: Inside the Duomo, Piazza del Duomo
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When you are inside the fabulous Florence Cathedral, wander down to the far end and look up!The inside of the huge Dome is covered with frescoes depicting what...
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