Charming, excellent restaurant and accommodation, perfect for exploring of northern Umbria
Deserted, most shops were closed when we were there in the afternoon
If you're in the area, I think it's worth a visit
Bevagna is founded on the former Roman town of Mevania, and the skeleton of that town still supports the more recent (if still ancient to us) structures. This is most noticeable in the area towards the north of the town around the "Via dell' Anfiteatro Romano". But this street name is misleading, however. This is the former site of the Roman...more
This church, like its opposite number across the piazza (San Michele Arcangelo), was built by a pair of architects – Brunello and Ridolfo. We didn’t go inside but I gather it is fairly simple in design, with the typical nave and two side aisles, and the roof supported by tapering columns.The decorations on the portal and façade are worth studying....more
As the inscription just below the carving of St Michael (to the left of the door in this photo) tells us, this church was built by Masters Brunello and Ridolfo: “Rodolfus Binellus fecerunt hec opera xps benedicat ilos senper et Michael custodiat”That is, “Rodolfo and Binello made this work, may Christ always be merciful to them and may San Michael...more
Three large churches and the Palazzo dei Console face each other across the main square of Bevagna in a way which is very unusual; their façades are neither aligned to nor opposite those of the other buildings. The lack of symmetry adds to the beauty of the piazza, rather than diminishing it. And the piazza is indeed stunning, whether viewed by day...more
The Romans built a wall around their city of Mevania, and later in medieval times (between 1249 and 1377) more walls were constructed, often on top of the crumbling Roman remains. Today’s Bevagna is still surrounded by its medieval walls, giving it an air of intactness and permanence. In many places these walls are integral to the fabric of the...more
The most prominent “architectural recycling” in Bevagna however is the reutilisation of the old theatre. While I walked through the northern part of the town I could see it at the house walls which are bend, following the half circle of the theatre structure, as in my main photo and in photo 2. Some houses have little bridges over the streets (as...more
When I walked around in Bevagna and arrived near Piazza Garibaldi (the piazza near the northern entrance gate, photo 3), I suddenly saw these interesting pillars in a wall of a house. I already though that once a temple or something similar must have stood here and that the pillars were simply used as part of the new stone wall. And indeed, later I...more
This church or duomo is fantastic!! I couldn’t get enough of its beautiful archaic façade, although it is a bit more decorated that nearby San Silvestro. It is of similar age (end 12th century) and the entrance portal is most marvellous. Already when I saw photos of it before, I knew I must see it. It is also another example of “architectural...more
This was my first impression when I came to Bevagna’s main plaza for the first time and it lasted anytime I came back: archaic and beautiful. I always had the feeling that people in Medieval dresses or on horses would come around the corner anytime. The piazza is rather small and has the typical structure: a fountain more or less in the middle,...more
ponte delle tavole 2, Bevagna, 06031, Italy
Good for: Families
Corso G. Matteotti, 79 Bevagna, Umbria, Italy
Good for: Business
Vocabolo Cantone, Bevagna, 06031, Italy
Good for: Families
So how did I discover this maybe best restaurant of Italy or even Europe? It was all the “fault” of British journalist Patricia Clough, who wrote the book Gebrauchsanweisung Umbrien in this special series of “operating instruction” book series of German Pieper Publishing. In one chapter she wrote about the Slow Food movement and mentions that...more
On our last evening in Bevagna we were in the mood for something more casual and less substantial (possibly because of the large meal we had eaten at Redibis the previous evening, or maybe the generous gelati we sampled in Spello that afternoon!). We headed to the Piazza Garibaldi where we had noticed several welcoming looking restaurants and...more
On our first evening in Bevagna we opted to eat in the restaurant of the Poggio dei Pettirossi. It proved to be an excellent choice. For one thing, the setting is wonderful. The building sits at the highest point of the property and the restaurant on its first floor (2nd to our US VT-ers!) with large picture windows to maximise the impact of that...more
I've described in another tip how Bevagna is built on the foundations of an ancient Roman town. Nowhere is this more evident than in the area of the ruined theatre, where buildings follow the gentle curves of its shape. This restaurant is tucked away in the heart of this corner of town and its Roman foundation is one of its two main draws. The...more
This is one of the most characterful places I have seen for a while. Its interior walls are lined with shelves which display a surprising but appealing mix of art books and wine – what a great combination! Tucked among them are photos of film stars and other famous people, as well as locals and visitors to the bar. There are just three tables...more
The restaurant at Il Poggio dei Pettirossi was my dinner option while I stayed in the Bevagna region for almost one week (April 2008). But as the owners had just arrived and I was often the only guest, they didn’t open their restaurant during the week, so my real option was Thursday and Friday only. And as I had booked Redibis on the Thursday, it...more
You will almost certainly need your own transport to come to Bevagna, but if you drive here you will just as certainly need to park your car as soon as you arrive and explore on foot. The medieval streets were not designed for modern methods of transport and although some locals need to drive here for access, all visitors should take advantage of...more
During Roman times it must have been easier to reach Bevagna by means of public transport, given the (as I imagine) heavy traffic on Via Flaminia. Today it is a bit more difficult. Bevagna isn’t connected to the Italian train system, so the only possibilities are bus and car. There are busses to/from Foligno 8x per day and to/from Montefalco 3x per...more
1 Reviews and Opinions
When I was in Bevagna, I came across the announcement of Arte in tavola. This is a local festival all around food and handicraft. Well, to use the simple word food seems not appropriate enough when it comes to Umbria’s delicious culinary delights, so the name arte in tavola (art on the table) describes it much better. During this festival, which...more
While at dinner in a restaurant on the Piazza Garibaldi on the Sunday evening of our stay we heard music and popped outside to see what was going on. It was a religious procession of the type quite common in Catholic countries – this one in honour of Beato Giacomo Bianconi. Giacomo was born in Bevagna in 1220. At sixteen he was received into the...more
While I was in Bevagna in April 2008, it was too cold that women would have come to the washhouse near Porta Todi. But I’ve read that it is still in use in summers. That’s somehow typical for Umbrian villages (not only Umbria though): even if women have washing machines in their house, they still come to this public washhouse as part of their...more
Like for many of the old Umbrian cities and villages, we (visitors) should park outside the city walls. This, as space inside is rare and should be left for the locals. Enough parking lots are available outside the city: a big one at Porta Cannara in the north and a smaller one (see photo) at Porta Todi in the east. Walking around in the city is...more
I went into a Bevagna grocery store to buy a peach. I gave the clerk ten euros, and he only gave me back two euros, which meant he charged me 8 euros for one peach. When I asked him about the price, he started yelling at me and told me to get out of his store. I found an Italian women who spoke english that said she would talk to him. She spoke in...more
Luggage and bags:
If you want to visit Bevagna and might need to park “outisde” or walk from the bus stations to your accommodation, I would recomment that you bring luggage on wheels or backpacks, they are easier to carry on the often cobblestoned roads.
Clothing/Shoes/Weather Gear: Definitely bring shoes with which you are comfortable for walking. Bevagna has a lot of cobblestones. Your feet will be grateful in the evening. Bring warm clothes, even in summer, as the temperature might get colder than at the coast. Umbrella or raincoat might be a good idea, depending on the season. I needed good rainprotection in April (2008). If you want to visit the churches, bring something to cover arms and legs, as you might not be let in with unappropriate clothes.
Toiletries and Medical Supplies: There are enough pharmacies where you can get medical supply. Bevagna even has a famous one, with a tree inside. Bring translation for prescriptions. You might like to bring first aid kits with band-aid, as you might have blisters from walking. Foot cream is a good idea, too. My feet were happy in the evening with this.
Photo Equipment: The most magic impressions throughout whole Umbria and especially the region around Bevagna are the churches and other buildings. Many of them, especially Duomo San Michele, have ornaments, sculptures and other details where you would need a good tele lens.
Camping/Beach/Outdoor Gear: There is no beach in Bevagna, but depending on the places you stay, you might have access to a pool. If you plan to hike, bring all your equipment, as it is most unlikely to find places where you can rent tents and the other stuff.
Miscellaneous: Binoculars are a good idea, for wildlife watching or looking at the building details. Maybe a torch as well, as depending where you go, streets might not be lit appropriately. Italian dictionary is also a good idea.
As already mentioned, in addition to the river Clitunno spring there is a little temple close by. It seems to have built in 4th to 6th century. The historians are not exactly sure about the date, as material was used from older buildings and temples (very much common practice as I found here and there in Umbria). Maybe there was even once a pagan...more
I found this wonderful church only by accident, when I drove north into Valle Umbra coming from Lago Piediluco and Terni. I left the highway (E45/SS3bis) north of Aquasparta and only 5 minutes later I saw this church at the street so I got off and looked a bit closer. I was amazed to say the least (couldn’t close my mouth to be precise). There was...more
I didn’t visit Assisi during my trip through Umbria this time. Somehow I was in a kind of spiritual mode, “light and easy” and slow and hadn’t seen many tourists in Valnerina, at Lago Piediluco, in Bevagna and the parts of Valle Umbra I visited. I planned to visit Assisi though but when I approached it and saw the masses of busses unloading more...more
If you stay in Bevagna, you should hike up the hills to the southwest. You will be rewarded with beautiful paths through meadows and olive groves and wildflowers everywhere. I sensed incredible peace and harmony in these hills, reflecting the “slow” concepts of Slow Food and Cittàslow and the spirit of San Francesco. On the way uphill is a beautiful church, Madonna della Grazie (see screenshot google maps, “photo” 5). It should be open by now (restoration was ongoing in April 2008). Once on the hill, the views are breathtaking: the broad valley lies ahead and Monte Subasio in the back with the cities and villages Assisi, Spello, Foligno, Trevi, Campello sul Clitunno and Montefalco in the distance. It takes around 45 minutes uphill (to Il Poggio dei Pettirossi), but it is better and more rewarding to take time, a lot of time… slow :-). The landscape is too beautiful to race through it. In between you should look back from time to time – beautiful views for great photos are guaranteed.
On the Sunday morning at the Poggio dei Pettirossi I woke at dawn, needing to use the bathroom. On my way back to bed I paused to look out of the window and was transfixed by the sight. The whole valley in front of the hotel was filled with an unearthly mist, with just the occasional tall cypress tree poking up through it. The surrounding hills...more
Legend says that it was Bevagna where San Francesco spoke to the birds. In chiesa San Francesco (at Piazza Garibaldi, a bit hidden behind the palazzos) is a stone where he is said to have stood while preaching to the birds. Bevagna locals are very proud of their saint and you will come across signs and little statues of him very often. The one in...more
Compared to Germany, any kind of coffee is much cheaper in Italy. Haha, while writing this I realise that I want to be back in Italy, just for the smell of caffè! Espresso/caffè is usually less than 1 € in most of the Umbrian villages and caffè latte/Latte Macchiato is around 1,50 € (maybe more in Assisi and Perugia, but as I wasn’t there I cannot...more