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Trattoria Lea - Città di Castello
Trattoria Lea
by Ciambella
Reviews and photos of Città di Castello restaurants posted by real travelers and locals. The best tips for Città di Castello dining.
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Caffè Latino: Città di Castello's Best
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  • Luca and Mara of Caffè Latino - Città di Castello
    Luca and Mara of Caffè Latino
    by Ciambella
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    Luca Cantoni is the owner of Caffè Latino, a lively bar in the main piazza of Città di Castello. There is an eclectic blend of 14th century frescoes on the ceiling, baseball caps on the walls, and a modern bar counter at the center of it all.

    Luca, his wife Mara, and bartender Sara Polidori all collaborate to invent and prepare a continuous string of good drinks. During happy hour, one can also sample delicacies created by chef Marco Bistarelli, co-owner of the nearby Michelin-star Il Postale restaurant.

    The combination of high-quality coffee, superb selection of alcohol, excellent service, and ideal location has landed Caffè Latino a spot in Gambero Rosso every year since 2003. For those who don’t imbibe, there are also dozens of different kinds of hot chocolate and non-alcoholic drinks.

    Caffè Latino is the driving force behind the Ferrari day extravaganza and one of the major patrons of the annual Tiferno Blues festival. Luca is well-known for his ardent sponsorship of numerous community-oriented events.

    Actress Monica Bellucci is Caffè Latino's godmother. An endless list of celebrities has also adopted the bar: astronaut Roberto Vittori, critic Vittorio Sgarbi, football extraordinaire Giovanni Trapattoni, actor Lino Banfi, TV personality Daniele Bossari, radio deejay Linus, comedians Teo Teocoli, Dario Vergassola, and Pippo Santonastaso, singers Franco Califano, Al Bano Carrisi, and Fausto Leali... Certain drinks are named to reflect celebrity patron tastes; my favorite is Califfo Peppar, a spicy and refreshing vodka blend.

    To put it simply, Caffè Latino is a social lynchpin of Città di Castello. If you want a bar that has both national recognition and local flavor, this is the spot for you.

    Note: On April 8, 2006, Caffè Latino has a new owner and a new look. It is now a place to be seen. Many people like the new look, new ambiance, new staff. We don't. We miss the old Luca's place.

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  • Theme: Pub/Brewery
  • Price: less than US$10    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: about average
  • Address: Pizza Matteotti, 06012 Città di Castello
  • Directions: In centro storico
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    Del Centro Pizzeria: Anonymously Delicious
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  • Between 5A and 7A on Via Mazzini is a door with no name. The business is supposed to be called Del Centro, but there is no street address number or business sign. Instead, it is just a nameless, nondescript door. Walk on through: you will find absolutely the best pizza by the slice, at least north of Naples. The slices are actually squares and every square is as good as the next. From sausage to margherita to plain white, I promise you will not be disappointed.

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  • Theme: Pizza
  • Price: less than US$10    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: less expensive than average
  • Address: Via Mazzini 5, 06012 Città di Castello
  • Phone: +39 075.855.83.40
  • Directions: In the centro. Look for a bench outside of the door or you will miss it.
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    Preludio: Prelude To A Lovely Evening
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  • The restaurant Preludio has an understated elegance. The space is more than ample, with three lovely dining rooms and a bar with a good sitting area. There is tasteful lighting and simple abstract artwork. The owner has extensive experience in the restaurant business and it shows.

    The menu offers dishes from Umbria as well as other regions. One or two even have a French flair. The price is fair and with the secondi between €6.50 and €11, you get very good value for the money. There is even a children's menu, which is a very unusual feature for an Italian restaurant.

    The food is prepared and presented in an innovative manner, without being pretentious. The staff is knowledgeable and mature in its handling of large diverse crowds. This is a new restaurant that won’t have any problem becoming a success.

    Risotto with celery, pears, gorgonzola, and Rosso di Montefalco. Tagliatelle with Norcia truffle.

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  • Theme: Italian
  • Price: US$21-30    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: about average
  • Address: Corso Vittorio Emmanuale 42A
  • Phone: +39 075.855.64.69
  • Directions: In centro storico
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    Trattoria Roma: Where Everybody Knows Your Name
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  • The first time you eat at Trattoria/Pizzeria Roma, you are treated as a guest. On the second visit, the staff knows your preference. By the third time, you are family. Even if you don't come back for a year, Lorena the hostess will still remember your name.

    The locals call this place "da Fez e Mauro" because Fez (short for Fabrizio) and Mauro are co-owners. The two men have been best friends since childhood, despite having nearly opposite personalities. While Fez sings, chats, and jokes with customers, Mauro is the partner who hardly ever utters a word.

    Fez and Maura both serve as chefs. Pasta is served only at lunch but secondi and contorni are always available, as is terrific pizza. Secondi choices include several meat dishes, as well as the house bistecca.

    If you are on a tight budget, select one of the two "Fez Propone" menus. For €12, you will have a secondo, contorno, 1/4 litre of house wine, a bottle of water, and coffee or fresh fruit for dessert. Coperto is included and tips are never expected.

    The food is good. The price is cheap. The service is excellent. The atmosphere is warm, friendly, contagiously happy, and decidedly neighbourly. It would be hard to find a nicer place than "da Fez e Mauro" to call your home away from home.

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  • Theme: Local
  • Price: US$11-20    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: least expensive
  • Address: Via Mario Angeloni 2, 06012 Città di Castello
  • Phone: +39.075.855.35.60
  • Directions: In centro storico
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    Trattoria Lea: Pasta, Meat, And Seafood
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  • The restaurant's name was Osteria Primo in 1930 when the door first opened to public. In 1986, Lea Gianbanelli and her husband took over, and it became Trattoria Lea.

    The name was changed, but the food is still the simple Northern Umbrian fodder. For almost 20 years now, Lea, her husband Antonio and their older son Cristiano have been cooking every day the same food that made Lea a local favourite. In the two dining rooms, their younger son Marco and Federica (the only employee) run back and forth between tables, serving food and making sure everyone feel at home.

    Tuesdays and Fridays are seafood days.

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  • Theme: Italian
  • Price: US$11-20    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: about average
  • Address: Via San Florido 38, 06012 Città di Castello
  • Phone: +39 075.852.16.78
  • Directions: In centro storico
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    Trattoria degli Amici Miei: Good Music, Good Friends, And Good Food
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  • The restaurant is in a palazzo, similar to other palazzi in the city. The quirk is that when you enter the building, you face a staircase that heads down. Yes, the bulk of this establishment is underground.

    An underground restaurant sounds dark and unappetizing, doesn't it? Amici Miei is quite the contrary. The dining room is casual but elegant; there are seven tables and 23 seats. The ceilings curve upwards gracefully, sculpted with materials from the XVI century. The walls are decorated with simple black and white photos from the owners' various travel destinations. Warm lighting highlights architectural details. The nicest touch is the background music: soft jazz and haunting ballads.

    In short, the restaurant is a cross between an upscale restaurant and a local tavern.

    Marilena is the petite young woman who acts as a server; Alvaro is her husband, the talented chef. The two of them work every day; during busy times, other family members take up hostess and server duties.

    Amici Miei serves genuine Umbrian food, prepared and served with utmost care. The wild boar lasagne is especially outstanding, as is the gnocchi with black truffle. You cannot find fresher, better panzanella anywhere. The lunch and dinner menu are the same; the menu changes seasonally based on available ingredients. In the last five years, we have yet to order a dish that doesn't please.

    This is one of our two favourite places in town. Every time we have guests, we bring them here. As the restaurant's name indicates, this is the place where friends gather. When one enters Amici Miei, one leaves the world behind. Even though there is little chaos to be found in this town, Amici Miei is still a place where daily life is gladly forgotten.

    Summer menu: lasagna, panzanella. Winter menu: risotto, agnello, cinghiale.

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  • Theme: Italian
  • Price: US$21-30    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: about average
  • Address: Via Del Monte 2, 06012 Citta' di Castello
  • Phone: +39 075.855.99.04
  • Directions: In centro storico
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    Tre Bis Bar Pasticceria: "Oh, Thank Heaven For... Bar Tre Bis!"
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  • Note: This tip is written by our daughter.

    My parents normally scribble their own travel opinions, but they suggested that I write this piece because I feel passionately about Bar Tre Bis.

    As might be gleaned from my parents' other pages, Città di Castello is a quiet Italian town. It's lovely and warm, but the slower pace can be an awkward transition for someone accustomed to New York, Los Angeles, or even Seattle. Enter Bar Tre Bis!

    Bar Tre Bis is the only 24-hour establishment in the city. Technically, it's right outside the city walls. The bar has coffee, sandwiches, drinks, pastries, and gelato. During daylight hours, there's a patisserie that has an even wider assortment of sweets.

    The ambiance at Bar Tre Bis is hardly worth mentioning: a few tables are scattered around, bright lights glare from the ceilings, and TVs blare all the time. Also, it's right next door to a gas station.

    Fortunately, the staff more than compensates for the bar's lack of refinement. While it's always frustrating to deal with tourists who don't speak Italian, the staff remained patient and resourceful in interpreting my requests. I was always successful in making myself understood, primarily because the staff was determined to understand me. :)

    Besides their superpowers in leaping over the language barrier, I also found the staff amiable, generous, and kind. When I was here to see my parents, I visited Bar Tre Bis often; with every visit, someone took the time to make a recommendation, give me an extra goodie, or carefully garnish my dishes with charming flourishes.

    I can't stress how splendid it is for Bar Tre Bis to be open at all hours. When one has a restless itch for chocolate chip gelato at 3AM on Christmas Day, it's a pleasure to cross the street and be sure of a warm welcome.

    Salute!

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  • Theme: Coffeehouse
  • Price: less than US$10    » Currency Converter
  • Comparison: least expensive
  • Address: Viale V. Veneto 20, 06012 Città di Castello
  • Phone: +39 075.855.43.68
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