Gubbio Restaurants

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Last year in October, my Italian teacher Edvige took me to Piatto d’Oro to show me a restaurant which is very famous with the locals. But since they have no website and since they don’t advertise anywhere and since it is located in Branca, one of Gubbio’s suburbs, tourists would not likely find their way here. And the dishes are oh so good! Since it was autumn we wallowed in mushroom dishes, had bruschetta to start with, one with pieces of fried porcini, the other one with minced ones. This was followed by frittata (omelette) with herbs and mushrooms and then came our pasta dishes: tagliatelle with porcini and gnocchi for me. We finished with meat and chicory (cicoria) and there was no room left for any desert, caffè only.
We were both very much satisfied with our meal and paid not more than 20 Euro each.

Piatto d’Oro on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., June 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).

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During my second visit to Gubbio in autumn 2009 I had dinner in Taverna dei Lupo again, this time with my Italian teacher Edvige. Again it was a good experience. We have both decided to eat the Italian way which includes every course and we both chose almost the same dishes. As starters we had wonderful crispy rolls on a bed of fresh porcini and cheese with grated parmesan cheese (photo 1), followed by truffle and ham lasagne (photo 2) and steak of wild boar in olive oil and herbs (photo 3). This time we opted for desert as well. Edvige ordered a chocolate mousee with vanilla ice cream while I decided that I must sample the famous Vin Santo with cantuccini (almond cakes). The latter one was especially delicious; it reminded me a bit of German Ice Wine, albeit it was not as sweet, which I liked. The cantuccini, by the way, need to be dipped into the Vin Santo and then they literally melt on the tongue.

We were both satisfied with our meal, although, no matter how Taverna del Lupo tries, they will never ever reach the culinary heaven and dedication of my favourite restaurants of all, Redibis in Bevagna. Our bill came to 120 € for all our dishes including tip.

Taverna del Lupo on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., November 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update June 2010.

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During my search for local specialities restaurants in April 2008 I found this nice restaurant. I saw Taverna del Lupo already during my first evening walk, but I wasn’t hungry, so I only looked at the menu displayed outside. I liked it. It is said that the taverna is Gubbio’s prime option for dining and yes, it is located in a very nice cellar-like room, where the individual seating areas are separated from each other by cupboards or walls. The ambience is very elegant and I felt a bit out of place in my shabby trousers (yes, I forgot that bella figura is very important in Italy). But it didn’t seem to matter.

Favorite Dish: Like in the good Italian restaurants, also here I found “only” a few selections per course, but as already mentioned elsewhere, this is a sign for fresh ingredients and preparation. It was easy to choose so I had gnocchi as starter and primo (photo 1), which were delicious and only in tomato sauce with basil. As main course I opted for the tagliata (beef, cut into small pieces) with salad and aceto balsamico with chopped onion and garlic. It tasted excellent, soft and really rare. As desert I found the selection at the trolley very inviting but did choose a wild berry mini cake only, which was soft and light enough to fit in and made me feel not too full.
All in all my dinner came to 45 € with caffè and a glass of local red wine.

Taverna del Lupo on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update June 2010.

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There are certainly several places to buy take-away snacks, especially pizza. However some I tried are not exactly freshly made but at least one or two hours old and will be heated in a microwave before sold to the customer. Not so the tiny pizzeria in the arcades of Loggia dei Tiratori (approximately in its middle). They are shifting loads of freshly made pizze into their ovens hourly and always serve them within minutes. It is a very popular place. One slice of pizza is 0,90 Euro.
The pizzeria is open from 15:30 on, except Thursdays.

Oh and writing this reminds me that I must remind readers that it is very difficult to get snacks outide of the typical lunch break time (or siesta). The snack places and restaurants are closed after approx. 3 p.m. (I am not sure about Giardini Pensili though).

Small pizzeria on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., June 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).

Another excellent dining option in the old town centre without having to pay an arm and a leg is “Alla Balestra”, in Via della Repubblica, just where the Corso (Corso Garibaldi) leads off to the east. They have excellent pizza and many other good dishes. I eat here very often times by now but completely forgot to take more pictures than the one of my carpaccio. Their dishes are all listed on the website below, albeit without prices. But we paid approx. 5,50 Euro for our pizze (mine was a Napoletana). My other dishes were Penne alla Balestra (a type of arrabiata), Crocchette e olive ascolane and a delicious pannacotta.

Alla Balestra on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., June 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).

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In May 2010, my Italian teacher Edvige Galasso suggested Faro Rosso for a lunch break and indeed it was a good idea. Apart from that we also had excellent weather and had a prime view over the valley and of course at Gubbio and its location at the bottom of Monte Ingino. Faro Rosso seems to be very popular among the locals, especially during the weekend, so it provides a lot of seating inside and also outside. It is also a hotel (but for those with car only since there is no public transport up here), with a huge pool area.
According to my usual habit (eat “Italian” with all courses every other day) I had mixed local antipasti which were split into a cold and a warm dish, followed by tagliatelle with fresh porcini and then again a tagliata. Oh my, this was so good and so much, especially the two antipasti dishes that I could not find room for desert. Well, next time. I can’t say how much our bill was because I was invited and we didn’t order according to menu but according to the suggestions the waiter gave us. But it can’t be that much, given the relatively low prices of their accommodation.

Favorite Dish: .
Directions:
Drive past Teatro Romano (the teatro to your left), cross Gubbio’s bypass road (SS 219 = driving beneath it) and follow the road through the “suburbs” (Italian: Frazione and Località) Fontanelle, Canalecce, Monteluiano until you are finally on top of the hills opposite Gubbio. Faro Rosso is signposted almost all the way after having passed SS 219.

Faro Rosso on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., June 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).

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Oh well, how good do I still remember this indeed life saving snack, even if it is more than two years ago now! When I hiked up to Basilica Sant’Ubaldo in April 2008, I had water with me, but nothing to eat. And since I was obviously on the road or path for quite a time, I got hungry and craved for caffè. I did remember the small kiosk on Palazzo Ducale’s terrace and on the whole walk downhill the image and smell of caffè materialised in my head. And finally I was there, almost collapsed at the little buffet and whispered “caffè doppio”. The guys smiled and made my caffè and already the smell brought back all my life spirits. They had all kinds of snacks, but I loved the idea of this very delicious crescia (main photo) with cheese and spinach. There is a little seating area next to the kiosk and with this magnificent view it was indeed a five star late lunch I had. And it is very much reasonable as well! I paid 6,50 € for two caffè doppio, one half litre bottle of water and the crescia. Caffè doppio in Gubbio is usually 0,75-0,80 €, by the way.
The kiosk’s name is I Giardini Pensili, and I honestly hope that they stay in business forever. Nice service and excellent snacks!

Update, December 2010:
This place is my favourite by now. To sit here on the terrace is magic. The tranquillity, the peace up there is marvellous. Palazzo dei Consoli with the toretta and the bells, especially the Campanone are at one’s feet. And then the view across the valley, one can almost see Assisi from up here. This is my place to load up my batteries because it is a true energy place. And it is my place to say arrivederci, or in other words a & rivederci – we see each other again.
Giardini Pensili, by the way, means hanging gardens, also the name of this terrace.

I Giardini Pensili on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., February 2009 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts), update December 2010.

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By now this is one of my favourite restaurants in Gubbio. It is not as classy as Taverna del Lupo but down to earth AND the served meals are very delicious. The restaurant is located in the cellar of an old oil mill (at least that’s what the name frantoio suggests) and has seating for approximately 200 people, although this is not really obvious. But this does not mean that tables are available anytime: reservations are recommended. I once came at 21:00 on a Sunday and it was impossible for me to get a table. The waiters are very friendly and will make excellent recommendations if one is unsure of what to eat. And they serve the best pizza in town. In case of good weather there is also seating outside.
On my first visit I had carpaccio, followed by pasta tagliatelle with wild green asparagus and pannacotta with raspberries as desert (approx. 22 Euro altogether) and on my second time I tried their delicious tagliata (beef, roasted as whole piece and then cut into small pieces, main photo) served with rucola (rocket). The latter was indeed very good, the best tagliata I had in Italia so far.

They are open during lunch time and seem to have adapted to non-Italian eating hours; the sign tells that they serve pizza from noon on (no Italian would eat at noon..). In the evening they open at (I think) 19:00, but since this is not yet Italian-dinner time, it is easier to get a table then. Closed on Mondays.

Directions:
It is very easy to find since it is located in the town wall just opposite of the parking at Teatro Romano. From inside the town walls, enter Via Cavour and follow the sign to parking Teatro Romano (through a little archway).

All’Antico Frantoio on Google Maps.

© Ingrid D., June 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).