Gubbio Shopping

  • Cute merengue ceraioli
    Cute merengue ceraioli
    by Trekki
  • Shopping
    by toonsarah
  • A variety of goods
    A variety of goods
    by toonsarah

Most Recent Shopping in Gubbio

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    Pasta Fresca Il Matterello: Fresh pasta – to die for

    by Trekki Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Fresh pasta, oh yum....
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    Again I was grateful to have had the mini-apartment at Residenza di Via Piccardi and to be able to cook in the kitchen. Pasta Fresca Il Matterello was another magnificent discovery. They make fresh pasta with passion, and yes, the passion tastes through their pasta. They are specialised in the typical pasta of the region, such as fazzoletti ripieni (fazzoletto is the red bandana, all locals wear during Festa dei Ceri), umbricelli, strozzapreti and of course fresh gnocchi. I also realised that they make a filling with fresh lemons, but on the day I was there they were already sold out. Next time!
    I bought gnocchi and small ravioli with ricotta and can definitely say that the result was better than in most restaurants I had pasta so far. This was not because of my cooking but because of their marvellous pasta.

    The shop is closed on Mondays.

    Directions:
    Well, this is a bit of walking without car since the shop is located in the outskirts. From the parking at Teatro Romano, walk south-west (Viale Paruccini), take the first to your right (Via dell’Arboreto) and walk straight on. Pass a roundabout, continue straight on, pass under Gubbio’s bypass road (SS219), and turn into the ground of what looks like a small industrialised zone on your right (name: Centro Polifunzionale "Arboreto"). This all must be very new since it is not yet visible on Google Maps.

    Pasta Fresca Il Matterello on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., July 2010 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)

    continue with next review => Ristorante All'Antico Frantoio
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    Le Betulle: Fave dei Morti, typical pastry in November

    by Trekki Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Oh yummm, delicious fave dei morti, all flavours
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    When I came back to Gubbio in autumn 2009, I was lucky to be able to try one of the typical seasons’ specialities. My Italian teacher Edvige told me about the fave dei morti (translates into beans of the dead) and that they are a typical pastry for All Souls Day (Nov 2). The little shop with the best fave dei morti is called Le Betulle and is located just a few metres northwest of Piazza Quaranta Martiri in Via Cavour. As soon as I entered this shop I was greeted with a delicious aroma of fresh baked products and saw that they had a big selection of fave dei morti. They came in flavours of wild berries, pistaccio, almonds (the typical one), lemon and many more. I could not help but buy 200 g of almost each flavour, which was good since they kept us well-fed during the next lessons. My favourites though were the wild berry ones. And they were very reasonable, 200 g for 1,40 €.

    I come back to the shop anytime when I am in Gubbio for some delicious latte macchiato, caffè or bread. In October I saw these cute cakes in their refrigerator (see photos). They were just normal cakes with cream but decorated with the loveliest toadstools made of meringue and coloured red and dots of sugar pieces. Oh my, I had to resist buying one of these since it would have been too much for me.

    In May they have another set of meringue pastry, this time ceraioli, the ones who carry the Ceri during the festivals: one for each cero group, see photo 5.

    Le Betulle on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., November 2009 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update July 2010.

    continue with next review => Fresh pasta to die for
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    La Buca del Tartufo: Cecilia’s delicatessen shop, oh heaven!

    by Trekki Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Cecilia in her shop La Buca del Tartufo
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    This is a magnificent shop. Here I can stock up with delicious Umbrian specialities for the “dull” days to come, back in Germany. Cecilia’s La Buca del Tartufo shop is specialised in local delicatessen and oh my god, it is so worth to go here for shopping! It is a family owned business, father Fausto and dog go out for truffle hunting in the season, mother, father and Cecilia’s sister take care of the gardens in Gubbio’s farmland, harvest the goods and prepare them at home and Cecilia is in charge of the shop in Gubbio. The shop is a pure heaven for lovers of good and solid Italian food and slow food, albeit vegetarians might get a slight shock in view of the many big ham pieces dangling from the ceiling. But then, the animals are definitely well looked after before they are turned into produces. Cecilia will happily explain and also offer bits and pieces to try of their goods. We had a wonderful panino each with delicious ham and then it took ages until I was able to decide what I will buy. I had to go back by plane, so I was limited in weight and didn’t want to (or could) take too many glasses with me. Finally I decided to buy two cheeses which were matured with a Sagrantino crust, four little sausages from wild boar and another four of pork which was fed with herbs and a big piece of ham (1 kg). I also could not resisit to buy two glasses of confettura di cipolle rosse (jam of red onions), 200 g each. The bill for all, including the two panini, came to 40 €, which I see as a bargain given that I bought fresh produces without any chemical treatment.

    The moral to this is: even if there are shops very near the main touristic spots in Gubbio, it is better to go off the trotted paths and look for authentic shops. La Buca del Tartufo is certainly one of them. I look forward to come in May with a car and be able to buy more, including olive oil in these beautiful decorated canisters. This was maybe the hardest part when I was in Cecilia’s shop in Nov. 2009, that I could not buy this olive oil. But it would have made a mess in my backpack…

    In the meantime I bought olive oil and it is indeed one of the best I ever had, tastes soft and does not leave any other flavour in my mouth or in the dish. Somehow I was too occupied with all that happened during my May trip that I completely forgot to stock up with litres of oil. But I will have time enough once I have found this little apartment.

    La Buca del Tartufo on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., November 2009 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.), update July 2010.

    continue with next review => Fave dei Morti and other sweets
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    Pierini Cartolibreria: Libreria Pienini – the best bookshop in town

    by Trekki Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    The libreria is near this gate

    The bookshop Fotolibri in Corso Garibaldi might be the biggest one in Gubbio and certainly the non-local would see or find it rather quickly (Corso Garibaldi is one of Gubbio’s main streets), but when it comes to attitude, there is much room for improvement. Maybe because I was the foreigner with not that much Italian expression skills, maybe she had a bad day, maybe... maybe.

    But during my long stay in Residenza Via Picardi I had chats with other guests and we exchanged ideas, suggestions and also recommendations about books and stores. One Swizz couple had a book about parks in Umbria, surprisingly in German language. They said that they bought it at Fotolibri, but they must have picked the last piece because when I went there an hour later, it was no longer available. When I asked if she could order it, she said, that it will most probably be sold out. A couple of days later, David (a nice hiker from Utah) showed me a hiking map of Gubbio’s surroundings which he bought at Pienini Cartolibreria and he mentioned that they were extremely helpful. Since I wanted to buy this map anyhow with the help of my Italian teacher Edvige we checked at Pienini and were positively surprised how much effort they made to find the Umbria park book for me. They phoned several other bookshops they are connected to and finally found it in a shop in Foligno. One week later it arrived, Edvige was informed and I could pick it up.

    Directions:
    Via Reposati is the south-westernmost street in quartiere San Pietro (inside the city walls) and the shop is located near San Pietro’s main piazza (with chiesa San Pietro). Either walk through the gate Porta Vittorina and turn left into Via Reposati or walk east from Piazza Quaranta Martiri into Via Mazzalini (= where Hotel Oderisi is located) and follow the street. It leads into Via Reposati.
    Be aware that the shop sign can be easily overlooked!

    Libreria Pienini on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., July 2010 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)

    continue with next review => La Buca del Tartufo, delicatessen
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    Books and DVDs, a must to get the atmosphere

    by Trekki Updated Aug 13, 2013

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    Book: I Maestri del Silenzio :-)

    Anyone who is also captured by the spirit of Gubbio or in general interested in the marvellous traditions of the city and its history should look for books and DVDs. Luckily there are many of these available which cover not only the traditions but also the history and especially the one of San Francesco (St. Francis), for whom his stay in Gubbio was a very important stage in his life. The best bookshop for these kinds of books and DVDs is Libreria Fotolibri, in Corso Garibaldi.

    The best book I bought here is certainly the one about Gubbio’s campanari and the campanone (the one in my picture): Campanari, I Maestri del Silenzio. With 42 Euro it is not cheap but it is a piece of art. Already the book cover itself is artwork, longish, red (colour of the campanari), an opening which resembles the opening in the torretta with the campanone. Written with passion, magnificent photos and composition it also includes a DVD about Gubbio and the campanari ringing the bells. Video shootings and assembly have been made of course by Giampaolo Pauselli, a god in catching the atmosphere. I have no idea how he managed to take these videos, since it must have involved hair-rising climbing to mount the camera. But the result is simply marvellous. He is a master in combining special angles, cross-fading and unusual close-ups, shows emotions and on top, his selection of background music and sounds is second to none! Watching the DVD certainly helps me to get over the days until I am back.

    Other books which are available there are one about San Francesco’s life and descriptions of the places in Gubbio which are of importance in connection with him and then of course many books about Gubbio’s most famous festival, Ceri. The majority of books are in Italian though, but one about Ceri is bilingual (English and Italian) so that it perfectly helps anyone travelling here to understand this festival, its schedule, the colours and other attributes. There is also a thick book with photos of the Ceri festival of 2008, including a video. I have bought the video (90 minutes), again with contribution by Giampaolo Pauselli and would even suggest that this is the best video about Ceri. Usually, a DVD is available from every year, but somehow 2008 was special.

    Other books which are available are about other festivals and events (although none about Palio della Balestra, but someone will work on that!), arts and history and other tourism related books.

    © Ingrid D., July 2010 (So please do not copy my text or photos without my permission.)

    continue with next review => Pierini Cartolibreria, the best bookshop
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    Ceramiche Aldo Fumante: Ceramics and more

    by toonsarah Updated Jul 2, 2012

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    If you’re looking for somewhere to shop for gifts to take home, this could be a good place to search. There are two small floors crammed with decorative items, mostly ceramics. Many of the latter seem to be, if not made, at least decorated on the premises – I watched the woman who was later to serve us painting a plate as we browsed around. Later I read the information on the website (below) and discovered that this is very much a family business, with Aldo making the pottery and his wife and daughter decorating it.

    What to buy: I saw some nice larger items but was very conscious that anything I bought would have to be carried to my next destination, Bergamo, so I looked for something small. In the end I settled on a little bowl painted with olives which I thought would be useful for olive stones and make a nice present for Chris who loves olives (and yes, did like his little present). This cost €8 – not a bad price for a hand-painted item, albeit small.

    As well as ceramics the shop sells children’s replica crossbows (Marit bought two of these for some young relatives. glassware and smaller items like Christmas tree ornaments, fridge magnets and even postcards. Well worth a browse.

    ~~ next tip: another great place to shop

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    Officina Libris: Wonderful leather!

    by toonsarah Updated Jul 2, 2012

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    Attractive window display
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    Near the Piazza del Bargello we came across a shop with a very enticing window display, and going inside were captured by the wonderful leather goods on show as well as the fascinating book-binding press. We got talking to the young lady serving here, a Dutch girl who told us she had studied book-binding but that this alone didn’t pay these days, so the shop had diversified.

    Everything here was finely crafted and, like all good leather, smelled and felt wonderful. You could tell that a lot of love and care went into the goods. Sure enough, the website (below) confirms this:
    "The articles produced by Officina Libris which are made from real leather tanned with natural vegetable dyes and united with handmade paper are the result of a perfect union between the town and its craftsmen-artists. These experts retrace an ancient and noble history, trying to capture its essence and reinterpret its signs between roots and destiny, tradition and creativity, past and future. ... The entire handcrafted production of Officina Libris is made here [in Gubbio] and nowhere else in the world. This is not by chance. It is a choice and a vocation to work in this most classical of places, which gives even more value and depth to everything. Every place has its specific material and spirit that find their synthesis in the genius loci. Gubbio, the so-called town of stone, is built with strong materials and has a strong spirit that resists the destructive passing of time and the ruinous effect of neglect.”

    What to buy: There were so many lovely items here, that, although I hadn’t initially intended to buy anything, I became determined to do so – both to have a souvenir of a shop that seemed to epitomise the spirit of Gubbio, and to support a business that clearly made no compromises when it came to quality. There were some wonderful photo albums (many decorated with embossed leaves) that would be perfect to keep the memories of a special occasion such as a wedding, but these were too large, and too expensive for an impulse buy. The same applied to the bags, beautiful though they were. But there were plenty of smaller items. Marit bought a lovely wallet and in the end I chose one of the simple but very nicely made iPhone covers (useful because my old one was so tight that I sometimes struggled to get the phone out before it stopped ringing!) Our new Dutch friend offered to emboss it with a symbol or letter, so I chose one that was very plain and asked for my initial to give it a simple unfussy appearance that is very reminiscent of the shop itself.

    What to pay: My phone case cost €23 – not cheap, but as it is so well made I didn’t feel that it was at all poor value. If you want a special souvenir of your visit to Gubbio and can spare the money, a bag from here, though expensive, would be much more exclusive and (to my eye) more attractive than many of the designer bags you see.

    ~~ next tip: an important warning

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    Granmilk: Real mozzarella – to die for: NO MORE :(

    by Trekki Updated May 14, 2011

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    Granmil shop - oh delicious mozzarella :)
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    The advantage of staying in a mini-apartment rather than a hotel room is certainly the possibility to be able to prepare meals. With the daily food and vegetable market just outside of Residenza di Via Piccardi I picked up fresh tomatoes and garlic almost every day and was delighted to hear that there is also a shop where fresh real mozzarella (mozzarella di bufala) is being sold. The shop is opposite of Hotel Oderisi, in Via Mazzatinti only a couple of metres away from Piazza Quaranta Martiri. I was over the moon when I entered and saw the enormous variety in “cheese” and especially in mozzarella and other freshly made “antipasti” in several bowls. The smallest piece of mozzarella though was 300 g, but then this showed me again that families buy here and not single persons. I paid 5 Euro for the 300 g piece. And it was so delicious. I already look forward to my next visit and the mozzarella dishes I can make.

    Directions:
    From Piazza Quaranta Martiri, walk direction Hotel Oderisi. Granmilk is opposite of Hotel Oderisi.

    Granmilk on Google Maps.

    © Ingrid D., July 2010 (just in case, RickS or others come along and think they can steal texts).

    What to buy: Update May 2011:
    unfortunately this mozzarella shop is no more :( The owners have moved to Jesi.

    => please don't rate or save anymore. I'll delete this tip as soon as I am back from travelling.

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    eat crescia

    by andy-g Written Oct 1, 2004

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    was it near here that I ate crescia?

    You can have it in one of the bars in Gubbio. I read its name on a notice board outside a bar in the town centre and soon wanted to taste it.

    What to buy: For a fast snack in Gubbio buy a "crescia". It's very typical kind of pizza of the region (both Marche and Umbria) You can have it with ham (prosciutto in italian) or cheese (formaggio) or even both.

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