Gelateria Tullia: The essential gelato
As we all know, sightseeing even at its most leisurely can be hot and thirsty work, and refreshment stops are essential. For me in Italy this can mean only one thing: gelati! So we were very happy to spot this inviting gelateria just off the main street and to stop to enjoy a treat.
Favorite Dish: There was a large range of flavours available, as you might expect from a proper Italian gelateria, and all looked delicious and home-made, so choosing wasn’t easy. In the end I opted for pink grapefruit (which I had enjoyed so much last year in the Cinque Terre) and “ricotta with caramelised figs”, a new flavour to me. Both were excellent so I was happy with my choices. Chris had his favourite chocolate and strawberry flavours, with the former rich and dark and the latter very evidently made from the real fruit rather than any artificial strawberry flavouring. Other flavours sampled by our group included cassata and lemon, and all were pronounced delicious! The portions were large and prices reasonable for the size - €5 for two huge scoops. As is the case everywhere in Italy, we paid extra to sit and eat out ices at one of the outside tables rather than take them “to go”, but we really enjoyed relaxing here and watching the mixture of local and tourist life – a family evidently celebrating Mothers’ Day, a group of cyclists pausing on their climb of the steep hill to cool off, a couple relaxing over coffee while checking their guidebook ...
Ristorante Porta Venere: Great food and a view to match
This restaurant was a real find! Looking for lunch we wandered just off the main street, the Via Garibaldi, and spotted a sign advertising a terrace with a view. That sounded promising, as did the menu displayed outside, so in we went to check it out. The restaurant itself was very smart-looking and largely deserted – it might well be a good choice in the evening but on a sunny day it was a bit dark to appeal to us. But passing through it we emerged on to the promised terrace, and knew immediately that this was where we wanted to eat our lunch. The restaurant lies on the edge of the west side of the town so the terrace looks out over the old walls to the plain below, and sideways to the so-called Towers of Propertius that mark the Porta Venere. It is planted with flowers and small citrus trees, and the tables shaded by large cream awnings – a great spot for a leisurely lunch with friends. Incidentally I took this photo from the restaurant’s website which is why it looks empty! I didn’t think they would mind as I’m promoting them ;-)
Favorite Dish: We decided to share the Antipasto Umbria to start and our waiter advised that one between two people would be sufficient – he was spot on! The platter included various cold meats and a couple of bruschetti – one with a sort of pesto topping, the other courgette/zucchini. For my main course I chose taglione (a ribbon-style pasta) with black truffles, which was very tasty, while Chris ate veal with rosemary – also delicious. With a beer for him and a glass of my new favourite wine, Sagrantino, for me, our bill for two was €60 with service. I am pretty sure you could eat more cheaply in Spello but I felt this was a reasonable price for the quality of the food, the good service, and the marvellous view.
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