Marostica Things to Do

The Piazza Castello is the main square of Marostica, with the main attraction being the huge chess board set into the square and the annual chess game that is played with human chess pieces played the 2nd weekend of September in the even years.

The story of the ChessGame dates back to 1454 when Marostica belonged to the Venetians. It happened that two nobleman, Rinaldo D'Angarano and Vieri da Vallonara, fell in love with the beautiful Lionora, daughter of Taddeo Parisio, who was the Lord of the Marostica's castle.
As was the custom in that time, they challenged each other to a duel to win the hand of Lionora. The Lord, not wanting to make an enemy of either suitor or lose them in a duel, forbade the encounter in conformity with Venetian Law.
He decided the two rivals should play a chess game: Lionora would take the winner as her husband. He also decided that the loser would in any case join his family, marrying Oldrada, his younger sister. The game should take place on the square in front of the Lower Castle on a feast-day with armed living people carrying the noble ensigns of Whites and Blacks, in the presence of the Lord, his noble daugther, the Lords of Angarano and Vallonara, the noble court and the entire population. He also decided the challenge should be honoured by an exibition of armed men, foot-spkliers and knights, with fireworks and dances and sounds.
So as the armed men enter we see archers and halberdiers, fool-soldiers and knights, then the Lord and his noble court with an anxious Lionora, who is secretly in love with one of the two rivals; her faithful nurse, noblemen and their ladies, the herald, the master of arms, falconers, pageboys, maidens, standard holders, musicians, farmers and their wives; the Whites and Blacks with their kings and queens, rooks and knights, bishops and pawns: and the two suitors, who decide the moves.
Then tribulation for the victory, fireworks and music according to the Lord's orders.
Lady Lionora had secretly informed the population, should the winner be her beloved, the Lower Castle would be illuminated by whitelight, so that everybody could share their joy. This event is repeated today just as the first time, in a framework of sumptuous costumes, multi-colour abnners, martial parades, exquisite elegance.

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Since the beginning of the 15th century, Marostica became part of La Serenissima Repubblica di Venezia. It was the headquarters of a vast podesteria, and had the priviledge of having a podesta, directly chosen and nominated by Venice.
There are two major entrances into the town; the eastern gate is called Porta Bassano while the opposite on the western side is Porta Breganze.

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The construction of Castello da Basso (Lower Castle) started during the time of Mastino II but it was only finished by Cangrande, along as the Upper Castle. The walls, with revelins and towers, are of later construction than that of the two castles and they were begun by Cansignorio.
With the Scaligeri era, Marostica took on its present day aspect of a powewrfully fortified walled town.

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First fort stood here in Roman times with the evident scope of controlling the plain and the roads which led up to the table-land of Sette Comuni. A few ancient tombstones remain as a lasting reminder of the Roman presence in Marostica. During the following centuries, Marostica kept back important strategic positions under the rule of the Longobards, the Ezzelini, Vicentini and Padovani. In 1311 it came under the rule of the Della Scala family, Lords of Verona. The most important civil and military constructions in the town date back to the time of Cangrande, the most famous of the Scaligeri.

The walk to the top of the old town is steep but short. Unsuitable for potential heart attack victims and wheelchair-bound people, or both as the case may be.
They're in a pretty good state of preservation and you get a good feel of the place if you decide to chance your arm (and leg).
As you rise the view's splendour correspondingly increases.

A note of unique courtesy pervades everything; it inspires the whole re-evocation of this ancient story which, from the darkness of remote times, still lives today as a fantasy.
The orders are still given to characters and cast today in the dialect of the "Serenissima Republic of Venezia".
The Human Chess Game is played on the square of Marostica every second Friday, Saturday and Sunday of September of the even years.
As you can clearly see, the colour when I was there was provided by something other than chess, more your common market place scenario. Though I didn't splurge on flowers, I did make a significant outlay on chocolate.
The pink and grey squares where the game is played are clearly visible when you are there but the pagaentry and glamour is missing.
One thought however, continually crossed my mind. Imagine how stupefyingly boring it would be if you were the rook (castle), stuck in the corner in uniform for ages in a game where you were never moved or, another scenario, being a pawn, the victim of an early attack. All that getting dressed up for a few seconds work.

Soon after you leave Marostica, especially if you're heading into the Dolomites, you pass through Basso del Grappa (yes that's what it's named after and there is a museum at Marostica) you hit the S47 to Trento. This is one of Italy's more scenic drives and the two times I've travelled it I felt there was much to admire. Coming from flood plains, as you do, and suddenly finding dramatic cliffs beside you, adds to the effect.
I made a point of stopping to have lunch and soaking up some of the atmosphere.
At some stage I went for a little walk down a little-used lane to relieve myself. Little did I know that the local carabinieri were keeping an eye on me as a potential terrorist suspect!