Churches, Venice

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The church of Madonna dell'Orto is probably as "off the beaten path" as you can get whilst still being in the city of Venice itself. It's a lovely gothic affair and is often referred to as "the English Church" because it was British funds that helped to restore the church after the floods of 1966.

The first church built here in the mid 14th century was dedicated to St Christopher and so his ststue is still over the door to this day. He was the patron saint of travellers and supposed to protect the boatmen who ferried passengers to and from the islands in the north of the Venetian lagoon.

However, the dedication was changed in the 15th century when the church was reconstructed after a statue of the Virgin Mary was found in a nearby vegetable garden (orto) and said to have miraculous powers.

The interior of the church is large, light and amazingly uncluttered for a catholic church. In fact it reminds me most of the Anglican church of St Barts in Brighton, England. There are some interesting works of art above the high altar.

This church is part of the Chorus Pass scheme for admission charges.

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Santa Maria dei Derelitti is also known as Chiesa dell'Ospedaletto, being hospital for the poors and the working class of the carpenters who lived in the area around the church.
The church was designed by Andrea Palladio in 1575 and thanks to generous donations from benefactors has an opulent facade from 1670, work of the architect Baldassare Longhena. There church preserve valuable works of art in its interiors, from 17th and 18th century, by Jacopo Palma il Giovane e Gianbatistta Tiepolo.
It is situated on Calle della Barbaria delle Tole. Tole is Venetian name for the carpenters.

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San Marcuola has been founded in the 9th-10th century and dedicated to St. Ermagota and St. Fortunato, but Venetians simply call it Marcuola. The church was famous for housing the right hand of John the Baptist, the one with which he had baptised Christ. San Marcuola was damaged in fire and rebuilt in 1343. The facade was to look very alike that of The Pieta but it remains unfinished above the plinth. The interior is retangular plan with with pair of altars at each corner. There is Tintoretto's "Last Supper" on the left wall of the apse.
The same I wrotte on my previous tip, goes for the church San Marcuola too. It attracted me when passing by, most of all because of its uniqe construction which seems to me like an early Romanesque style. The church is situated on the left bank of Canal Grande.

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The church of San Martino have been founded in 650 but more reliable sources say it was at 1026. The current look is after rebuilding in 1546, to a design by Sansovino. The facade was changed again in 1897, by the architect Rupelo, who retained Sansovino's doorway. The interior is Greek cross plan with eight chapels at the corners.
There is lion's mouth on the front facade, it served for posting anonymous accusations of citizens' sinfullness.

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San Samuele is attributed to the Biblical Samuel. The church is located in the eponymous campo and was built around 1000. It was destroyed in the early 12th century by two fires, but then completely reconstructed. As many other churches of Venice, San Samuele was reconstructed several times in its long history and its present look dates from 1685. The portico on the facade, now closed, is surmounted by loggia and was added in 1952.
The interior, over the higher altar, houses a 14th century crucifix attributed to Paolo Veneziano. San Samuele is the only Venetian church dedicated to an Old Testament prophet, it is also unique for its late-Gothic apse which remained intact.

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The church of San Agnese was built in the 11th century but was closed for a very long period of time. It was remodeled in the Middle Ages in a way that original walls of the nave were never destroyed. San Agnese was only recently reopened for the public mass.
During rule of Napoleon Buonaparte in Venice Republic, the church was closed and stipped of its arts. As many other churches, where Napoleon ruled, it was used for the other purposes, becoming a lumber and coal warehouse.

According to legend, San Giovanni in Bragora was one of the seven original churches on the islands of Venice. Dedicated to St John the Baptist, the church had been founded at the beginning of the 8th century by St Magnus, the Bishop of Oderzo. It was restored in the 9th and the 12th centuries and rebuilt in 1475 in the Gothic style. Its brick facade is divided vertically by pilasters that mark the internal division of the church into nave and side aisles. Addition to its name is probably derived from the old dialectal word "bragolare", meaning the fishing trade, or from "bragola", meaning a market square, but another tradition states that the church took its name from the Greek "agora", which means simply "square".

The best known painting in this church is "Baptism of Christ", made by Cima da Conegliano. Among the others are "Washing of the Feet" by Jacopo di Antonio Negretti called Palma Giovane, "Virgin and Child with St John the Baptist and St Andrew" by Bartolomeo Vivarini, "Resurrection" by Alvise Vivarini…

Antonio Vivaldi, famous Venetian composer and violinist, and Pietro Barbo, later to be Pope Paul II were baptized in Church San Giovanni in Bragora.

San Giovanni in Bragora is located in Castello area on Campo Bandiera e Moro or De la Bragora, by Riva degli Schavioni.

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EASTERN CASTELLO

VAPORETTO- CELESTIA

During my visit at Christmas 2009, I'd read about there being a 'hidden open air chapel' near to San Francesco della Vigne. Although I spent some time trying to find it, I had to give up, as it was too dark. During my latest visit, I came across it by accident!

The home-made chapel is located in a sottoportego (covered passageway). Above one entrance, is a plaque (pic 2) which I think states that this is in memory of victims of war. I'm not sure, but I think it mentions victims of a bomb that destroyed inhabitants houses of Corte Nova-Numbers 1630-1636 and 1849-55 - (Hopefully someone can translate this for me. I can't find a name for it, but it would appear to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

The chapel has two small altars facing each other, (with paintings of the Virgin Mary, and Madonna and child) and an attractive carved and painted ceiling (pic 5)

This area of Venice is well away from the tourist hot spots, and is quite an interesting place to just 'get lost' in. You can find some small shops selling groceries, electrical goods etc. Some 'hidden gems' like this chapel.

I've since found out that there was an air raid in August 1916, on Venice, with loss of lives in Cannaregio, and there was also an attack on Arsenale, with the destruction of a submarine, and loss of lives, which could have been the event recorded here.

In September a bomb fell in Piazza San Marco, steps away from the main entrance. If you look carefully on the ground, there is a simple stone paving slab that commemorates this event. Many churches were hit too, causing loss or damage to their structure and artworks.

Venice was the first ever intended target for bombing from the air, The first air-dropped bombs were used by the Austrians in the 1849 siege of Venice. Allegedly, two hundred unmanned balloons carried small bombs, were discharged, but very few actually made it to Venice - probably due to the wind currents of the lagoon.

It's difficult to describe how to find it-The nearest landmark church is San Francesco della Vigna.
Located on the corner of Calle Zorzi and Corte Nuova. From Campo Santa Giustina, take the southern alleyway and continue straight on - keep your eyes open for the street names.