In Dorsoduro, in particular Campo San Sebastian at the end of the Zattere by Rio di San Basegio
Begun in 1507 and consecrated about 50 years later, the Chiesa di San Sebastian effectively is Veronese. This was his local church and he's buried there. The lion's share of the paintings in the church is his, too. In particular, check out 'Scene della vita di Ester' (Scenes from the Life of Ester).
Other than that, there are relatively few decorations due to the regulations of the monastic order that the church belonged to, which demanded a particularly ascetic lifestyle. Lack of funds did not help either...
In Campo Santo Stefano/Campo F. Morosini, very close to Chiesa Santa Maria Zobenigo.
The first thing one notices it the leaning bell tower (just in case you don't have enough time to squeeze in a visit to Pisa on your Italian voyage!).
Inside, there are three paintings by Tintoretto in the museum there:
- Orazione nell'Orto (Agony in the Garden)
- Ultima Cena (The Last Supper), and
- Lavanda dei Piedi (Washing of the Feet)
In Campo di Santa Maria del Giglio, also not very far from San Marco
Also known as Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio. The most interesting feature of the church are the maps of 17th century European cities on the facade, including Candia, Zara, Padua, Rome, Corfu and Split.
Inside, don't miss the 'Via Crucis works, Madonna and child with young St. John by Rubens, artwork by Tintoretto (Evangelists and Christ with two Saints). Organ shutters also feature very fine artwork.
In Campo San Salvador, close to San Marco
From outside, the impression that I had is of a more secular building, but in very fine white stone. Shaped as three crosses, the church is more famous for its interior featuring two works by Titian:
- 'Annunciazione' (Annunciation), to the right of the main altar
- 'Trasfigurazione' (Transfiguration), behind the main altar
Chiesa della Pieta was built in the 15th century according to a design by Giorgio Massari and was consecrated in 1760.
Most of the people on very short trips to Venice miss it, but it's well worth a visit for the amazing frescoes: among them Tiepolo's 'Fortitudine e Pace' (Fortitude and Peace) on the ceiling of the main entrance and 'Gloria del Paradiso' (Glory of Paradise) which is part of the 'Trionfo della Fede' (Triumph of the Faith) series on the choir ceiling.
Santa Maria Formosa is not off the beaten path at all, it is church, built in 15th and 16th century, on the square of the same name, and square & church are among the most visited tourist locations for the two reasons: their beauty and their position – approximately on the half way from San Marco square to San Giovanni e Paolo square. But what is often missed is the mysterious and monstrous head on the bell tower, on its side opposite of the church portal.
We couldn’t find out anything more about it for quite a some time, but Ingrid (VT Trekki) has managed to do that. Here is the quotation from The Stones of Venice by John Ruskin about the subject of this tip – "A head, huge, inhuman and monstrous, leering in bestial degradation, too foul to be either pictured or described, or to be beheld for more than an instant; yet let it be endured for that instant; for in that head is embodied the type of evil spirit to which Venice was abandoned in the fourth period of her decline; and it is well that we should see and feel the full horror of it on this spot, and know what pestilence it was that came and breathed upon her beauty; until it melted away like the white cloud from the ancient field of Santa Maria Formosa."
Vaporetto - Zattere
Also known as Chiesa degli Artigianelli
Not to be confused with Venices other Santa Maria della Visitazione - The Pietra!
I'm afraid that this church was closed at the time of my visit.
This church was the original Gesuati church. It was built by the order of the Gesuati in 1524, along with a monastery.
The 14th century order was disbanded in 1668. The Dominican order took advantage of this, by taking over these properties, then building the better known Gesuati, (or Santa Maria del Rosario) a few metres down the Zattere.
The facade of this church is much simpler than that of its neighbour. It is Renaissance, and was designed by Mauro Codussi in the Lombardesque style.
Its 58 ceiling panels (Umbrian School, 15th century) were recently restored, with funding from The America-Italy Society of Philadelphia in Collaboration with UNESCO.
Open daily 0800 - 1200 and 1500 - 1900.
I forgot to look for the Lions Mouth letter box on the facade. This was used for Venetians to post complaints about health and sanitation matters to the authorities. Next time, I'll be certain to look for it!
San Giacomo dall'Orio in Santa Croce area is one of the oldest Venetian churches. The original foundation of the building seems to date from the 9th century but the church was completely rebuilt in 1225. The churh was restored and modified in the 14th and the 15th centuries, the major renovation was undertaken in 1532 and the of Chapel of the Holy Sacrament was built in 1549. The origin of the name of the church is unknown. Possibilities include being named after a laurel – "lauro" that once stood nearby, a version of "dal Rio" – "of the river", or once standing on an area of dried-up swamp – "luprio".
Exterior of the San Giacomo dall'Orio is very austere, excluding, perhaps, square-plan bell tower built in the 13th century. The interior is beautiful, with quite unique, archaic atmosphere. Wooden keel roof with decorated wooden beams, built in late 14th or early 15th century and recently renovated, looks spectacularly.
San Giacomo dall'Orio treasures several paintings by Jacopo di Antonio Negretti called Palma Giovane considered to be the greatest of his achievements – "Passover", "Virgin and Child with Saints", "St Lawrence Giving the Wealth to the Poor", "The Martyrdom of St Lawrence"… Among the other paintings are "Virgin and Child with Saints" by Lorenzo Lotto, Veronese's "Doctors of the Church" and "Faith and the Holy Spirit"…
Although located on the square of the same name, one of the most beautiful Venetian squares – Campo San Giacomo dall'Orio, the church main facade and the portal face tiny Campiello del Piovan.
Church San Pietro di Castello is on the island San Pietro di Castello – isolated and peaceful part of Venice. There were church at the same place since 7th century, first dedicated to SS. Sergio and Bacco, and then it seems that it was rebuilt by Bishop Magnus in honour of St Peter, and, in honour of the island, it was named San Pietro di Castello. San Pietro di Castello was the he Cathedral of Venice until 1807, when the title passed to St Mark's. After several reconstructions, it was "redesigned" by Andrea Palladio in the 16th century. Paintings in this church are made by Marco Basaiti ("St Peter Enthroned and Four Saints"), Luca Giordano ("Virgin and Child with Souls in Purgatory"), Tizian, Paolo Caliari Veronese, Alessandro Varotari Padovanino…
There is so-called Throne of St Peter, presented to the Doge by Byzantine Emperor Michael III, in San Pietro di Castello. This throne, according to legend, was used by St Peter during his apostolic mission to Antioch of which he was the first bishop. Throne of St Peter plays an important role in Corto Maltese’s adventure in Venice.
San Pietro di Castelo church is on the east side of Venice, and it can be reached by vaporetto ("San Pietro" station), or walking about 10 minutes north-east from Giardini.
As we took the water bus from the boat to St. Mark's Square, and then later from the ship to Murano, we were in the Canale della Giudecca along the southern side of Venice. I saw that one of the pictures was of a church that we later identified as Santa Maria del Rosario. We didn't get a chance to visit anything except St. Marks and ride along the Grand Canal, but we did find out about this church.
Giambattista Piazzetta, who paints elaborate (and somewhat dark) paintings, did two of the three altar pieces for this church – titled “St. Dominic” and “Dominicans,” which fits into the church’s overriding theme. The third altar piece by one of Piazzetta’s rivals, Sebastiano Ricci, is the more colorful “Pope Pius V and Saints.”
"[…] In 1576 Doge Alvise Mocenigo invoked the end of the epidemic and the salvation of the city by constructing a votive temple 'which successors will go and visit, in perpetual memory of the grace received'. The first stone of the new shrine was laid in May 1577, and on the third Sunday in July of the same year Doge Sebastiano Venier proclaimed Venice free of contagion and asked Andrea Paladio to design the church which was completed in 1593. […]"
Santissimo Redentore – Church of the Most Holy Redeemer stands on the Giudecca island, on the waterfront of Canale della Giudecca. It is Andrea Paladio's masterpiece, although his first intention – to build a round church inspired by the Pantheon in Rome was not accepted, but his back-up plan based on elongated Latin cross and massive dome. Palladio did not live to see the church finished. His work, in accordance with his plans, was completed by architect Antonio Da Ponte. Facade of the church is typical Palladian – elegant and white, of a classical calm. Wide staircase of fifteen steps, which is reference to the Temple of Jerusalem, match the diameter of the dome. Above the center of tympanum stands the statue of Christ the Redeemer.
Santissimo Redentore interior is spacious and bright. There can be seen some very noticeable artworks – Alvise Vivarini's "Virgin Adoring the Sleeping Child", "Baptism of Christ", painted by Paolo Cagliari called Veronese, "David and Achimelech" by Jacopo di Antonio Negretti called Palma Giovane… But the most impressive is beautiful, turbulent "Resurrection of Christ", masterpiece of Francesco Bassano.
In the church are wax portraits of the monastery abbots displayed under glass bell jars. Unfortunately we have heard about them to late and we have not seen them. It is the task for the future time.
Santissimo Redentore is the venue of the traditional Festa del Redentore – Festival of the Redeemer, annual celebration of the end of the plague that struck Venice in the 16th century.
Santissimo Redentore is visible from Piazzeta San Marco and it can be reached by vaporetto, "Redentore" station, starting from "San Zacaria Danieli" station.
SANTA CROCE Sestieri
Vaporetto - PIAZZALLE ROMA
Campo dei Tolentini, Santa Croce 265
The unusual feature to look out for, is to be seen on the facade of this church.
Behind the Corinthian porch, to the right of the door is a cannon ball embedded in the wall with the date 1849. (see 2nd photo) This has remained as a memorial to the Austrian siege of 1849
The church was closed during my visit, a young man was carefully washing down the steps with a water hosepipe. It looked as if there was some renovation work being done to the outside.
Commonly known as the Tolentini, the church is modelled on Palladios' Villa Malcontenta (which can be seen as a day trip along the Brenta Canal, which flows from Venice to near Padova).
Designed in 1716 by Andrea Tirali, the Roman looking facade dominates the Campo Tolentini.
It was built for the Theatine Order, which had been founded in Rome in the 16th Century. During the sack of Rome in 1527, this Order fled to the Dorsoduro sestieri in Venice, before moving to Santa Croce, and organising this church and a convent to be built (this now is home to the University Architectural faculty).
Vincenzo Scamozzi was the architect. However, there was a disagreement by the Theatines and Scamozzi, which meant that the facade was left unfinished.
Although it was consecrated in 1601, it wasn't until 1706 that the classical Greek - Roman columns were added by the architect Andrea Tiralir, who completed this Temple front in 1714.
The Saint Nicholas of this church is a 13th Century Italian, and not the one associated with Christmas! His miracles include resurrecting over one hundred dead children, which included several who had drowned.
Nicholas was a vegetarian, who was once served a roasted fowl; After making the sign of the cross over it, it came alive and flew to safety out of a window.
An apparition of the saint once saved the burning palace of the Doge of Venice by throwing a piece of blessed bread on the flames.
It's interior is quite a contrast apparently - with typical Baroque 'fanfare'! coloured marbles, gilding, frescoes, and putti (LINK)
The Rococo stucco work was added by an artist/pastry chef!
Works of art to be seen include 'St Jerome Visited by an Angel' by Johann Lys in 1628, ' The Banquet in the House of Herod' and ' Decapitation of the Baptist' by Bonifazio de Pitati.
The high altar and choir are by Baldassare Longhena.
The church has been witness to some dramatic events - In Feb 1789, Doge Paolo Renier died, he was quite unpopular, and even more so when his death co-incided with Carnivale - so rather than interrupt the festivities by organising a State funeral, he was buried secretly here, in the middle of the night.
In 1685, Francesco Morosini, had led the re conquest of the Morea, and presented the church with a banner that he'd captured from a Turkish General - this was complete with 3 horse tails!
Its interior holds the tomb of this Venetian patriarch who died in 1678.
This Monument is by the sculptor Filippo Parodi, and features Morosini reclining, while angels pull aside drapes above him!
Open Mon - Sat 09.30 - 1100 and 1700 - 1830
Madonna dell'Orto, one of the most beautiful "hidden" churches in Venice and "one of the greatest expressions of the Venetian Gothic" is settled in quiet and peaceful northern Cannaregio district. It was built in late 14th and reconstructed during 15th century. Originally dedicated to St Christopher, the church changed its name because an ancient statue of Virgin, found in a nearby garden and considered to be miraculous, was brought there. The portal of the church, designed by Bartolomeo Bon, is decorated with statue of St Christopher Carrying the Christ Child artwork of Nicolo di Giovanni called Fiorentino, architect and the sculptor of, probably, Croatian origin. At the top of side naves are twelve statues of the Apostles – six on each. There is a legend about one of thirty silver coins, Judas' award for betraying Christ, being there, inside the sculpture of Judas. At the upper part of central nave there is Virgin Annunciate, another sculpture by Nicolo di Giovanni.
Madonna dell'Orto is the best known for the works of Jacopo Robusti called Tintoretto. Tintoretto lived nearby the church, he had been a parishioner of Madonna dell’Orto and, finally he had been buried in it. Tintoretto's six large canvases and four smaller ones are in Madonna dell'Orto. Eight of them are in the Chancel – all of the four smaller and the four of the large ones – "Moses Receiving the Tables of the Law", "The Last Judgment", "The Martyrdom of St Paul" and "The Vision of St Peter". The remaining two are the oldest one – "The Presentation of the Virgin in the Temple" and the one painted the last – "The Miracle of St Agnes". Tintoretto's paintings in Madonna dell'Orto were made during the period of about 25 years.
Even in treasure box such as Venice, Madonna dell'Orto is very special jewel and it must not be missed.
Vaporetto - Ca' Rezzonico
Campo San Barnaba Dorsoduro 2771
I was wandering around, when I came upon this church, which was holding an exhibition of Leonardo de Vincis machines - Apparently this exhibition has been touring world wide, and the Venice exhibition finishes at the end of this year. I decided to go and have a look-it cost me 6 euros. I think there were about 20 exhibits, plus a video showing more aspects of his work. There was also a merchandise stall with books, post cards, t shirts etc.
If you've seen the 1989 film 'Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade' the rat scene in the library was filmed here. Earlier (1955) Katherine Hepburn fell into the adjacent canal in a famous scene from the film 'Summertime' ('Summer Madness' was its UK title)
The church is normally free to enter and is open 0030 - 1230 and 1500 -1900.
Its foundations date back to the 9th century, the present church is its 3rd re construction, dating from 1749, but its' brick, square shaped campanile dates back to the 11th century (among Venices oldest).
San Barnaba is copied on of the Gesuati (to be found on Zaterre near the Vaporetto stop)
The facade is of classical style, with its Corinthian style columns and triangular pediment.
Due to the exhibition, It wasn't possible to see much of the churches interior (screens hid any views)
Apparently, there is a single nave with 3 side altars.
The ceiling features a trompe l'oeil painting of 'St Barnabas in Glory' by Constantino Cedini, who was a follower of Tiepolo. There is also a 14th C Veronese' The Holy Family'
Historically, the area around the church offered cheap rents to the Barnaboti (residents of this neighbourhood). During the 18th century, many noblemen, down on their luck, moved into the area for this reason. One stipulation was that they weren't allowed to work, another was that they had to wear silk! So it was a common site to see sumptiously dressed beggars!
Often described as a jewel box, but also compared to an oversized sarcophagus, the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli is one of the most remarkable and the most beautiful Venetian Renaissance buildings. Squeezed between Rio di San Lio and narrow street dividing it from back side of Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel, this church is very special, both in historical and artistic aspects – it was designed, built and decorated by a single artist and his workshop, possibly all at the same time or in two almost concurrent stages, and, erected more recently than almost all the other churches in Venice – it has survived almost intact.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli was built between 1481 and 1489 or 1491, to a design by Pietro Lombardo, who was assisted by his sons Antonio and Tulio. The church was built to house Nicolo di Pietro's 1408 painting of "Virgin between two Saints", which is said to perform miracles. This painting, known also known as "I Miracoli" – "The Miraculous" is still displayed over the main altar. The building of the church is an architectural marvel – the facade is inlaid with polychrome marble panels in geometrical patterns, and this ornamental scheme is continued in the interior; the whole structure is crowned with an elegant semi-circular gable. The marble used for the Santa Maria dei Miracoli is, according to legend, material recovered from the building of the Basilica di San Marco.
The facade of the church is decorated with refined work of Venetian sculptor of Greek birth or descent – Giorgio Lascaris called Pyrgoteles depicting "Virgin and Child", carved about 1480.
The church has recently been restored – the ten year project, which cost about 3.000.000 $, supervised by the Venetian architect Mario Piana, was completed in 1998.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli is a popular Venetian wedding venue.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli is pretty hidden in the labyrinth of narrow Venetian streets. The easiest way to find it is to walk from Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo, via Calle Larga G. Gallina and Fondamenta Piovan to the altar, north east side of the church. Santa Maria dei Miracoli can be seen from Campo Santa Maria Nova.