SAN MARCO
I visited this church after looking around the Christmas markets in the Campo Santa Stefano.
Considered to be one of the finest examples of Venetian high Gothic architecture.
It also has a violent past! - a number of murders in the buildings history, led to the church being re- consecrated at least 6 times!
It is also the only church in Venice built directly over a canal! (outside, stand on the first bridge in the Calle that leads to San Marco and you can apparently see water passing under the apse - I forgot to, and it was dark so I probably wouldn't have seen much.
The church was founded in 1294 by Augustinian hermits from Sant'Anna di Castello, and was completed in1325, with further work in the early 15th century expanding the chancel over the rio del Santissimo
The campanile has a visible tilt, which is best viewed from nearby Campo Sant' Angelo or Campo San Maurizio.
The Grand doorway is the work of Bartolomeo Bon - Gothic archway and side ponnacles, decorated with stone ropework, leaves and vegetation are one of Santo Stefanos features.
Entering the church, you'll see its ship's keel roof. This is in 5 lobes, intended to resemble wind filled sails. It appears to be supported by rows of red Veronese and white Greek marble pillars, (which separate the nave and aisles)These are alternated longitudinally and crosswise, each having a different painted capital.
The keel is painted and richly decorated with rosettes and carved tie beams.
Light enters the upper nave, through lunette windows
The pillars are often decorated with rich brocades (they weren't at my visit) a reminder of Venices Byzantine past.
The churches altars date from the first half of the 18th century, but the main altar and chancel are early 17th Century. The main altar is a masterpiece of Venetian Baroque.
The stunning floor is formed from diamond patterned red and white brickwork. (The same pattern as can be seen in the Ducal Palace)
In the centre of the nave floor, cordoned off by rope (pic 3 and 5) is a bronze plaque. This is the site of the tomb of Francesco Morosini - (Doge between 1688-94) He was responsible for blowing up Athens' Parthenon and for looting the stone lions that can be seen in front of the Arsenale gates. Morosini lived in Palazzo Morosini Campo Santo Stefano No 2802.
Also buried in the church is another Doge (Andrea Contarini, who died in 1382)- his tomb is in the cloister, which are now government offices.
The composer Gabrieli is also buried in Santo Stefano.
By the door, to the left, is the Tomb of Giacomo Surian - a physician from Rimini -an equestrian statue, with skulls garlands and griffons decorating the tomb.
In 1630, the Plague caused the deaths of many hundreds of Venetians. They were buried in trenches in the graveyard of Santo Stefano (now known as Campiello Nuova - opposite the church facade, follow Calle del Pestrin). This area was considered so dangerous, due to the volume of corpses, and further risk of disease, that it was 'off limits' for 200 years
Santo Stefano has many fine works of Art on display in the Sacristy.
Four pieces by Jacopo Robusto -Who's better known as Tintoretto
Resurrection (circa 1565)
The Last Supper -
The Washing of the Feet
Christ praying in the Olive Grove
These 3 dating from 1579 -1580. I was quite drawn to these, especially The Last Supper. I wish that I understood art more. I know what appeals to me, though I can't always recognise why.
Apparently, "these are all typical of Tintorettos highly theatrical late style - note the lack of a central balance and astonishing perspective, They are all illuminated by brilliant shafts of light against dark and brooding backgrounds"
Furthermore-
"They reveal Tintorettos passion for grandiose, showy, restless composition and for the bold foreshortening of figures within architectural scenes"
Sculptures by Pietro Lombardo and Giovanni Faliers tombstone, by Antonio Canova are in a cloister adjacent to the smaller Sacristy that displays liturgical objects and holy jewellery, from different origins and eras.
CHORUS PASS £8 (single visit 2.50 euros)- though at my visit (evening Dec 23rd) it was free entrance.
Mon-Sat 10-1700
Sun 13 -1700
Closed Sundays in July and August, Easter and 15th August
Guided tours by Chorus (tel 0412750462)
Info sheets/audioguides Italian, English, French and German
Updated Sep 20, 2009
Address: Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco 2774
Phone: 041 522 5061
Website: www.chorusvenezia.org
CASTELLO
The church of Saint John in Bragora is one of Venices oldest churches. Its foundations are believed to date back to the 8th Century! (though records only have evidence of its existance since1090)
St John the Baptist is the patron saint of this church- Venetians believe that his remains were brought to their city from the East. Why Bragora? there is uncertainty as to the reason - some ideas are that it is from the dialect derivation of brago meaning mud, or from bragalore meaning to fish. The greek word agora meaning public /open/market place. So it could be that there was a fish market here at one time.
My hotel was in the same campo as this church, so it was easy for me to take a look around. There was no one else in there (and I only saw a handful of people going in or out during my 4 day stay.
Outside the church is a plaque, commemorating the fact that Vivaldi was baptised here. He was born in one of the houses in the campo.
Campo Bandiera e Moro is named after 2 brothers and their friend, who were executed following a betrayal by the English government, thwarting their attempts of a revolt that would lead to Italian Unity in 1844. (see my off the beaten tracks tip for more info)The 3 are all buried in this church.
The church was rebuilt in 1475, with its brick facade, being one of the last Gothic churches to be built in the city. There are also some Renaissance features in the internal architecture.
Inside, it is of a simple design, with a ships keel roof.
The red marble baptismal font, is an appropriate place for the red haired Baby who was christened Antonio Vivaldi on 6th May 1678. The font was originally the capital of a Gothic column.
Copies of the original baptism documents are displayed on the nearby wall.
Other things to look out for are ; The body of St John the Almsgiver, displayed in a glass case!
Resurrected Christ by Alvise Vivarini (1498) Constantine and St Helena (1501)and Baptism of Christ (1492) by Cima da Conegliano. This painting over the high altar is considered to be one of his best works. The landscape background is thought to be inspired by the countryside around the town of Conegliana, his hometown, which is also featured.
Updated Sep 10, 2009
Address: Campo San Giovanni in Bragora Cestello 2464
Phone: 0415205906
First built in the 9th century AD, la Chiesa di San Gregorio became a Benedictine abbey in the 12th century. The church was rebuilt in the 15th century in the elegant Venetian-Gothic form we see today, as designed by the architect, Antonio da Cremona. Following the Napoleonic suppression, the church was deconsecrated and later served as workshop for art restoration. Nowadays, the church remains closed and unused. It is located in Dorsoduro with its apse facing the Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute.
Updated Sep 7, 2009
Address: DORSODURO
One of the most prominent buildings in Venice's skyline, la Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute lies at the southern end of the Grand Canal in the Dorsoduro sestiere. It is a prime example of 17th century Venetian-Baroque architecture, designed by Baldassare Longhena, who is known for designing numerous Baroque palaces in Venice, including Ca' Pesaro. The octagonal-shaped basilica was completed in 1687 as a monument to commemorate the city's triumph over the plague (hence the name: salute = health). Its interior contains works of art older than the church itself, by Tintoretto and Tiziano (Titian).
Updated Sep 4, 2009
Address: Grand Canal - DORSODURO
One of Andrea Palladio's masterpieces, or even his greatest work, San Giorgio Maggiore was completed in 1580. His signature Neoclassical style is evident in its monumental white marble façade. Its bell tower is similar in style to il Campanile in Piazza San Marco, but a little smaller and with a conical, rather than a pyramidal top. The interior is home to some of Tintoretto's final works of art. The location of this church, on its namesake island across the wide Canale di San Marco, directly opposite la Piazzetta and the Doge's Palace, adds to its fascination. It continually provides a mystical backdrop for any photo taken from Piazza San Marco.
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: San Giorgio Maggiore Island
Adjacent to the church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari is the former Convento dei Frari, also known as Ca' Granda dei Frari. The current structure was built after a fire in 1369 destroyed the previous convent. Since the suppression in 1810 under Napoleon's rule, the Convent has housed l'Archivio di Stato (The Archives of the State), one of the most important archives in Italy with ancient records dating back to the earliest days of the Republic of Venice. The largest of the convent's two cloisters, il Chiostro della Trinità, is nowadays open to the public and offers a respite from the crowded streets of Venice. This cloister was designed by Andrea Palladio, but completed in 1589 after his death. It is surrounded by an arcaded portico made from white Istrian stone. A well in the courtyard is crowned by an incredible sculpture of the Holy Trinity, Saint Paul and Saint Peter, designed by Giovanni Trognon and sculpted by Francesco Penso in 1718. The second cloisters, known as il Chiostro di Sant'Antonio, was designed by Sansovino, but is closed to the Public.
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: SAN POLO
Though considered Mauro Codussi's greatest architectural work, la Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa was, in fact, not built by the architect himself. He was charged with remodelling and enlarging an existing 12th century structure, and completed his work in 1492. What makes this church unique is that it has two façades, one on a canal and another facing the Campo Santa Maria Formosa. Both façades are white marble and Neoclassical in style. The church's white marble, Baroque-style campanile was added only in 1688.
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: Campo Santa Maria Formosa - CASTELLO
Yet another beautiful church in Venice, San Bárnaba is Neoclassical in style. It was first built in the 9th century, but was destroyed in a fire in 1105 and subsequently rebuilt. In the 18th century, the architect Lorenzo Boschetti completely renovated the church and gave it its current Neoclassical façade, made from Istrian stone. La Chiesa di San Bárnaba overlooks a homonymous campo in Dorsoduro. Nowadays, the area immediately surrounding the church and Campo San Bárnaba contains numerous trendy shops and restaurants.
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: Campo San Bárnaba - DORSODURO 2771
More commonly referred to as Gesuiti, la Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta was built by the Jesuits in 1728. The rich Baroque design was the work of Domenico Rossi who had also designed the church of San Stae on the Grand Canal. The Jesuits' association with Venice goes back to their earliest days when Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, the founder of their order, spent time in Venice. However, the Jesuits were expelled from the city in 1606, but returned once again in 1657. They acquired a convent and a small church that once occupied the site of Santa Maria Assunta, where they established their base. The church was demolished to make way for the Baroque structure we have today. The ornate interior contains numerous important works of art, most notably paintings by Tintoretto and Tiziano (Titian), and sculptures by Jacopo Sansovino. Gesuiti is located in Cannaregio, near the northern shore of Venice where the ferry to Murano departs. It is easiest to combine a visit to both on the same day.
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: Campo dei Gesuiti - CANNAREGIO
Overlooking the Grand Canal in Santa Croce, the Church of San Stae was built at the end of the 17th century. The interior was designed by Giovanni Grassi, whereas the late-Baroque/Neoclassical façade was the work of Domenico Rossi who completed it in 1709. Rossi is also famous for designing the Baroque Gesuiti church in Cannaregio. The interior contains works of art by Tiepolo. The church is dedicated to San Eustachio (Stae is short for Eustachio).
Updated Aug 26, 2009
Address: Campo San Stae - SANTA CROCE
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Overlooking the Grand Canal in Santa Croce, the Church of San Stae was built at the end of the 17th century. The interior was designed by Giovanni Grassi,...
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