Churches, Venice

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With its red ochre and white exterior, la Chiesa di San Giovanni Grisostomo has a distinctive look among Venetian churches. It was originally built in the 11th century, but was destroyed in a 15th century fire. It was subsequently rebuilt after the design by the architect, Mauro Codussi, who died in 1504, two decades before the completion of the church. The campanile (bell tower) was a later addition, completed in 1590. The interior contains beautiful artwork, most notably the altarpiece by Giovanni Bellini and Sebastiano di Piombo.

A beautiful, but neglected church, la Chiesa di Sant'Aponal traces its roots back to the 11th century. It was built in 1034 by the Ravenna community and dedicated to their city's patron saint, Sant'Apollinare or Sant'Aponal in the Venetian dialect. Its square red brick bell tower was built in the 13th century. In the 15th century, the church was expanded and remodelled (some say rebuilt) to its current Gothic form. The sculptures of the Crucifixion on the façade are said to have been part of the altar of the original church. In 1810, during the French occupation, the church was closed and used as a detention centre. Although Sant'Aponal was re-consecrated in 1851 and renovated in 1929, it was closed yet again in 1984. Nowadays it functions as a marriage registry for Venice and, unfortunately, is not open to the public.

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Located on Campo San Maurizio in the San Marco area, la Chiesa di San Maurizio was rebuilt twice during it history. The standing structure dates back to the early 19th century and is a beautiful example of Neo-classical architecture. The interior has a Greek cross plan and a central dome. The church is no longer functioning, but the space is used for exhibitions and classical music concerts (it was Vivaldi in Nov 2005!).

Inspired by the Pantheon in Rome, la Chiesa di San Simeone Piccolo was the work of the architect Giovanni Scalfarotto. It is crowned with a distinctive oversized green dome and, like the Pantheon, has a classical pronaos with Corinthian columns. The church is officially called la Chiesa dei Santi Simeone e Giuda and was founded in the 9th century. The current structure, however, was completed in 1738. It is located on the Grand Canal in the Santa Croce area, opposite the railway station.

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In existence since the 9th century AD, la Chiesa di San Moisè was rebuilt three times during its history. It was originally dedicated to San Vittore, but after a reconstruction in the 10th century, the church was rededicated to the prophet Moses. The existing structure dates from 1682 and was the work of the architect, Alessandro Tremignon. Some criticise his design, particularly the richly decorated, imposing façade, as being an unsuccessful implementation of Baroque style. You can be the judge. The interior of the church contains a work of art by Tintoretto.

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The interior of la Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari strikes the visitor with its immensity. It was designed in the typical Italian Gothic style, plain and without ornaments, but makes up for its austerity with the wealth of incredible artwork. Most notable is the 16th century painting of the Assumption by Tiziano (Titian) above the altar, initially criticised for being too colourful. Other famous works include la Madonna di Ca' Pesaro by Tiziano, a sculpture of St John the Baptist by Donatello and another by Jacopo Sansovino, the 15th century triptych on wood of the Madonna and Child by Giovanni Bellini, and the 15th century altarpiece by Bartolomeo Vivarini. The Basilica is also famous for containing the tomb of Tiziano (Titian) himself. Another intrigue is the pyramidal monument to the sculptor Antonio Canova.

Note: Photography is not permitted inside the Basilica, but I took my photos discreetly without flash.

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One of Venice's greatest churches, la Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (i Frari, for short) was built by the Franciscan friars between the 14th and the 15th centuries. The Italian Gothic masterpiece replaced an older church dating from the 13th century. It is second in size after la Basilica di San Marco, and the slightly leaning bell tower is also the second highest in Venice, after San Marco. The interior contains innumerable art treasures, including works by Tiziano (Titian), Bellini and Donatello, among others. However, it is most celebrated for being the burial place of Tiziano and the sculptor Antonio Canova. See further tip on the interior of i Frari.

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Designed by Bartolomeo Bon, la Chiesa di San Rocco was consecrated in 1508. It is dedicated to one of the patron saints of Venice (St Roch), whose relics are within the church. In the 18th century, the structure underwent a major renovation during which its original simple red brick exterior was replaced with the actual exuberant white Renaissance-style façade. The new façade was designed by the architect Fossati to match the splendour of the neighbouring Scuola Grande di San Rocco. The interior of the church is much less ornate, but contains works by Jacopo Tintoretto.