Murano, Venice

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With all my professional life connected to glass, my expectations about Murano were very high. That's why I came back a little disappointed.

I was aware of the industrial crises, but expected more from the museum. Anyway, for those who had never been in Corning or seen Baccarat museum in Paris, it is worth the vaporetto trip.

I went there again - crisis continues, but it is always an astonishment the imagination and technique used in glass manufacturing.

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Everyone has heard about the glass made in Venice. The island where it is blown is called Murano. There are several business fronts that cater to tourists, and you will see an entrance sign with crafts made there for sale to the tourists.
This is the real thing, not the glass souvenirs made in China and brought over to be sold to the unknowing visitors. So expect higher prices, but for a good reason.
In these businesses you can view a demonstration of glass blowing. It can be very hot inside during the summer months, and refreshing in the cold winter. They will demonstrate how the shape a vase and sometimes you will see them make a mistake, as I think that these men are kind of training. I am sure the real experts are not wasting their time doing demonstrations.

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We had a free trip to to the Murano Islands courtesy of the Hotel Papadopoli, we jumped on a boat and headed out across fairly calm water, on arrival we were treated to a display of glass making & blowing then shown into the showroom where every shape size and price of glass is displayed, we found that as soon as they saw we were not interested in buying the mood changed. When some of the pieces are 150,000 euro what do they expect, better to go there on your own and just mooch about, so many shops to choose from, they all sell the famous Murano glass.
The Islands are linked by many bridge and the same Venice charm, but just felt too touristy & hard sell for our liking.

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The murano glass is quite something else. I wasn't expecting to much from our trip to the island, but we got off at the first Vaperetto stop and walked up the main street. You can see the difference reasonably easily between these originals and the massed produced glass in some of the tourist shops on main Venice. There is everything from lights to bowls, necklaces, and glass animals. My Son loved looking at all of the animals and picking his favorite in each of the windows.

We did pop our heads into the factory but didn't bother, there didn't seem to be to much going on to see and was going to cost Euros each.

There are plenty of cafe's and a restaurant in the big Piazza.

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As you get off the vaporetto and step onto Murano soil, there are many glass workshops where you can observe the glass blowers turn red-hot blobs of glass into houseware and coax an explosion of colors into the pieces. Fascinating. After the demo, you file into the stores to view the finished products - and be blown away by the price.

Afterwards, explore the island on foot - it's free.

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Venice is a wonderful, beautiful city! And, you don't need to travel to the island of Murano to find Murano glass treasures in Venice. But, you should! By ferry it doesn't take long to get there. The glassware shops are phenomenal! And, if you get a chance to see some of the glassmaking process going on, that is great! Don't ever pay to see this (as some places will try to charge you). There is plenty of opportunity to see this free. There are quaint restaurants to eat at and it doesn't need to take all day long. Definitely, worth the visit if you're in Venice!

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This is the glass-making capital of Italy. This industry dates to the 13th century. Murano was a busy port long before that. The Glass Museum has rare exhibits of traditional works. It's also a charming little island that is fun to just visit.

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Murano is usually described as an island in the Venetian Lagoon, although like Venice itself it is actually an archipelago of islands linked by bridges. It lies about a mile north of Venice and is famous for its glass making, particularly lampworking.
However we didn't particularly think this was a 'must see' place, glass works are something we have often seen in India, so this was a little disappointing! Als there are really very few places to grab a bite or have a coffee that was worth the money.

this is part of a forum reply to a solo female traveller

I travel at least once a year to Venice by myself, and find it's a great place for a solo female to visit. I feel quite safe, even wandering around in the early hours of the morning.

Booking accommodation - I tend to use Venere, Booking.com and Hostel bookers. You can check out accommodation in your price range, read reviews from people who've stayed there etc.
With Venere, you can click on a map of Venice, to chose hotels/ B&B's/ Guest Houses/ Town Houses/ Self catering etc. Also, there is no booking fee or deposit - you pay on arrival or departure.

There are a few hostels including the Youth Hostel on Giudecca Tel.0415238211, but you are advised to book early for July/ August.

http://en.venere.com/hotels_venice/?ref=733738

http://www.booking.com/index.html?aid=303948;label=bookings-naam-8AB8*lcajdLvGbo5PGmQ5wS1110366921;sid=e021ec009073ca9fde65b538a4b55b17

www.hostelbookers.com/booking/index.cfm

Getting around - I tend to buy an ACTV travel card for the vaporetto for 72 hours unlimited travel, when I'm staying 3 days or more. This costs 30 euros. This ticket can also be used on the ACTV bus from the airport to Piazzale Roma and to Mestre also.(a card for 90 minutes is 6 euro and 15 euros for 24 hours).

Although I walk around a lot in Venice,I like knowing that I can just jump on a vaporetto, if the whim takes me. They run day and night, so I quite enjoy a trip up and down the Grand Canal late at night, or out into the lagoon.

If you plan visiting any of the islands, I'd suggest purchasing a 24 hour ticket at least, possibly around late morning/ early afternoon from the kiosk at Fondamente Nuova. Catch the LN (Laguna Nord) vaporetto from here to Torcello(about 50 minutes)and then Burano (or vise-versa) on your return, you could stop off at Murano, OR next morning you could nip across to Murano (10 minutes away) or San Michelle (5 minutes), returning before your ticket expires.

I'd also recommend catching the number 2 vaporetto from San Zaccaria to San Giorgio Maggiore. Here, you can climb the campanile for 3 euros, (it's half the price of the one in San Marco, there will be a smaller queue(if any) for the lift, and you get a panoramic view of Venice and beyond - you also have a church to look around)

If you expect to be looking around lots of churches, The Chorus ticket gives admission to 16 churches in Venice (9 euros for individuals, 6 for students, 18 for a family) and is valid for 1 year. Without the Chorus card, it costs 3 euros to visit each church. When I've visited at Christmas, often entrance is free. (Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari - The Frari holds a free concert every 26th December too).
There are many churches not in the Chorus scheme, that you can visit for free.
http://www.chorusvenezia.org/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=37&Itemid=25〈=en.
I found this article that offers an interesting way to see Venice using the Chorus Card http://www.tripso.com/traveler/venices-chorus-pass-%E2%80%94-a-path-to-revelation/

Another discount scheme is the Venice Card,There are 2 types that give discounts for transport, museums, Chorus Card etc. I've not used this card, so I can't really comment on how useful it is. The few reviews I've seen have been quite negative.

http://www.veniceinitaly.com/venicecard_discount_venice/venicecard_discount_venice.php

There are quite a few guided walking tours, varying in price and content. Some are held at night.
Some of these also include a gondola ride in the ticket price. For a person travelling by themselves it is often very expensive to ride in a gondola (ok it's very expensive for everyone!!) so this might be a way.
I've not been in a gondola, but I've travelled by traghetti a few times - a fun experience, and cheap.
I've seen guided evening walks that visit Osteries to sample local cuisine and wine, which I've liked the sound of- For a solo traveller, it's sometimes difficult to go into a bar by yourself, or for some people to enter busy establishments full of locals, feeling they might not be welcome.
One of my favourite Osterias (or is it a bacaro?) is Al Bottegon(Cantinone Gia Schiavo, which is on Fondamente Nani, opposite Chiesa San Trovaso and the Squero di San Trovasa (gondola boatyard) in Dorsoduro.

This is just some general information for planning your trip, If you visit my Venice page I've planned a walk around Venice that takes in the major sites, and some lesser known places, that might be helpful.

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SAN MARCO

My first visit to Venice at Christmas 2006, I arrived at my hotel as the market closed.
2007 I'd intended getting there, earlier than I did, but due to getting lost trying to find my hotel, I just arrived as most of the stalls had closed. This was an improvement on the previous year!- and I still managed to buy a cup of Vin Brule (mulled wine/ gluewein etc)

2008 -at last - I was there in plenty of time! This was the 10th Anniversary of this Christmas Market.

First thing to do-Buy a Vin Brule- I bought this from the same stall as the previous year -1.50 Euros, later I purchased a pastry filled with confectioners custard from a stall specialising in Sicillian produce. It was tempting to go mad and buy lots of goodies- Olives, dried fruit, nuts, cheeses, sausages, biscuits, wines, beers etc, from different areas of Italy- but I restrained myself- The goods although of high quality were quite expensive - and this year 1 Euro virtually equalled £1, so I was even more aware of prices and value for money!

Wooden huts housed craft stalls. Again, I just browsed. There were some items at 'pocket money prices' such as some cut out wooden christmas tree decorations, that would have been light and easy to pack as presents. Other stalls sold jewellery, paintings, pottery, Murano glasswork (genuine and certified) etc.

So, I'd seen the Christmas Market - Will I go there next year? Probably not - It was nice to see it with all the stalls open, but unless I was shopping for a certain food item or present, I'd probablyspend my time seeing something else. ( I much preferred Manchesters Christmas Market and its atmosphere)

This annual market, known as 'Natale in Laguna' is held from December 1st to Dec 23rd each year 1030 - 1930 daily.

Stallholders are vetted by the Craftsman's and Tradesman's Association to ensure goods are of a high quality. There are also Christmas markets in Mestre and Murano.

Throughout the Veneto region, there is a programme of events from November 17th to Jan 6th, (when Italian children receive their gifts from Befania, the witch). I picked up a booklet 'Winter in Venice' or 'Inverno Veneziano', from the tourist info desk at the airport, listing the concerts, chocolate tastings, markets, etc. www.turismovenezia.it for more info.

Murano also had large glass decorations at various sites on the island - check my Murano page for some photos of these.

After visiting the market, I went into the church of Santo Stefano - Well worth seeing for its architecture and paintings - Please see my next tip.