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 The river rescue station,
Griva. by daugavpilietis
It's a pleasant area to wander -- there's a nice little church there, and the riverbank is public grazing land. Leave a Comment Directions: Cross the bridge.
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 The architecture along
Varšavas. by daugavpilietis
Latvia had a remarkably progressive system of multicultural education from its independence, which has been partly renewed today -- there are public schools offering instruction in Latvian, Russian, Polish, Belarusian, Hebrew, Ukrainian, Lithuanian, and Romany.
About 13% of the population of Daugavpils is Polish. If you continue along Varšavas, you can return to the center by crossing the footbridge (bear left before the street curves).
The crucifix you will see if you choose this route is a recent monument by Romualds Gibovskis. It marks the former graves of the Poles killed when liberating the city in 1920 -- the cemetery itself, and the adjacent Jewish graves, were turned into a quarry and then a garbage dump by the Soviets. Leave a Comment Address: Varšavas between 18. novembra and Smilšu ielas.Directions: If walking from the Center, turn left at the Cathedral of Boris and Glyeb.
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 A reproduction being hung at
the museum. by daugavpilietis, 2 more photos
Born Marcus Rothkowicz in what was then Dvinsk, he committed suicide in his New York studio in 1970. The building where the Rothkowicz family lived (which isn't where Breslin's biography says it is but near Slavas Square), no longer exists -- it's a LUKoil gas station.
You'll find a new sculpture dedicated to Rothko where 18. novembra iela meets the river, by local sculptor Romualds Gibovskis.
Farida Zaletilo, the organizer of the Rothko events, is currently working to develop a major new arts center in the Fortress. Leave a Comment Address: Rīgas iela 8Phone: (+371) 5424155Directions: The museum, which is in the former mansion of the commandant of the Fortress, looks onto Dubrovin's Garden, near the large fountain and a hideous monument to the first Soviet soldiers to enter Daugavpils in 1944.Website: www.rothko100.org
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This district, stretching from the cluster of churches to "the Chemistry" (the so-called Chemists' Microregion, built to house workers for the synthetics plant in the 1960s and 1970s, used to be known as "the Daugavpils Desert," consisting of dunes), is an interesting neighborhood because you will still see many old wooden houses in the Russian style. Unfortunately, the same attention to the preservation of urban wooden architecture one can only praise in Rīga (spearheaded by the architect Zaiga Gaile) is not popular in Daugavpils... so hurry! Leave a Comment Address: Between the Chemistry and the Center.Directions: Cross Gaisa tilts along 18. novembra, passing the White Swan (a hypocorisma for the jail -- note the swans on the weathervanes -- and don't be surprised if someone shoots a message at you; you may also see stockings passing between the barred windows...).
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 by daugavpilietisLeave a Comment Address: Andreja Pumpura iela near 18. novembra iela.Directions: The four great churches (joined recently by a Kingdom Hall of Jehova's Witnesses...) are located on the far side of the bridge that spans the railway tracks (Gaisa tilts), in Jaunbūve.
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Over the centuries, the Central Market gradually moved west -- from what was the main square (now Pumpura parks, across from the University) to where Unity Hall now stands, and finally to its present location behind the Ditton "Impērija," a large indoor mall (mostly of privately owned stalls selling questionable clothing). Unfortunately, the construction of hypermarkets like Maxima and Rimi in the center of town has ruined much of the atmosphere in the market (and left much of the central city empty). Still, the newly constructed fruits and vegetables pavilion is pleasant (an indoor pavilion is currently under construction). Visit Doktor Gorilka for pickles and ginseng vodka under a painting showing village life (being born, drinking, and dying...). Leave a Comment Address: Behind "Impērija" in the middle of the city.Directions: Walk through "Impērija," admiring the big black Soviet limousine... some of the tycoons at this company have a thing for Soviet vehicles and have recently opened a tank museum in Svente...
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 The Cathedral at dusk. by daugavpilietis
The cathedral you see today was built in 1905 -- a year that saw bloody and incendiary revolution (hundreds of German manors were torched throughout what is now Latvia) followed by brutal czarist oppression.
Be sure to enter to see the icons. Dress appropriately -- even the Catholic church frowns upon jeans or sneakers, and women entering the Old Believers' church are expected to cover their heads. Leave a Comment Address: Varšavas and 18. novembra ielas.
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Crossing the railroad tracks on 18. novembra iela (this street, originally Chaussée Street but renamed for the date of the declaration of Latvian independence in 1918, it was called Red Army Street during the occupation and decorated with neon hammers and sickles), you'll reach Daugavpils' architectural high point -- the cluster of Lutheran, Orthodox, Catholic and Old Believers' houses of worship. Leave a Comment Address: 18. novembra un Varšavas ielasDirections: Walk along the length of 18. novembra from the Daugava and cross the bridge.
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 The Martin Luther Church by daugavpilietisLeave a Comment Address: 18. novembra iela at Varšavas iela.
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 The Old Believers' House of
Worship. by daugavpilietis, 2 more photosLeave a Comment
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