Sliema Off The Beaten Path

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Mdina is Malta's original capital and a very old city. While Valletta dates to the 16th century, Mdina was founded by the Phoenicians in 700BC. It remained Malta's capital until the island came under the control of the Knights of Malta in 1530. But the Knights didn't abandon Mdina, they just felt the whole country would be better protected with fortifications around the Grand Harbour. The Knights swore an oath to protect the city and country here, and after the city was severely damaged by an earthquake in the 17th century, they rebuilt the city.

Today Mdina is called the "silent city". It is small, and has a population of only 300 people. Cars are mostly banned. Its located on a hill in the centre of the island, and this allows it amazing views back towards Valletta and the coastline. It is small, but home to some fine buildings, especially St. Paul's Cathedral. Combined with its near neighbour, the town of Rabat, it makes a fine day trip from Valletta.

Directions: Take bus 203 from Sliema. Note that Mdina is the walled city on the other side of the park, and Rabat the town on the other side of the car park.

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Qawra, along with Bugibba, form a single conurbation along St. Paul's bay about 15 km from Sliema. It has a beautiful coastline that's perfect for sunbathing, but not so good for making sandcastles as it has no beach. For me this area was the most touristic of all I saw in Malta, and to be honest I didn't like it much. I felt I could be anywhere in the Mediterranean - any tourist town in Greece, Cyprus, Spain or Turkey. There was no distinct character, although it was pleasant enough. It was full of big hotels, restaurants, new-build apartments and retired Brits buying rolling tobacco from the local newsagent.

There is one place worth visiting in Qawra if you are interested in cars: It has a fine car museum and it's only a short bus ride from Valletta.

Directions: Bus 12 runs to Qawra and Bugibba from Sliema.

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East of Sliema on Malta's northern coast is the town of St. Julian's. It's more like a suburb, though, as you can't tell where the town begins and where Sliema ends. St. Julian's is one of the most touristy parts of Malta, full of English style pubs, British shops and franchise restaurants. There's even a Wagamama's here.

The coastal area is pleasant to stroll along in the evening, and it makes a nice walk from somewhere more central. It's also party central. The beating heart of this haven of pubs, clubs and restaurants is called Paceville. It has a reputation for drunkenness, and occasionally violence, but no more than you'd expect at a night out in England, and probably a lot less.

Directions: You can walk there from Sliema, and its a pleasant stroll along the waterfront. Otherwise you can shorten the journey by taking bus 12 or 13 (any direction but Valletta).

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Tiny Valletta. It's the smallest capital in the EU, and at just over 6000 people it's one of the smallest in the world. It's no wonder it's small: With so many important buildings, churches, government offices, museums and shops, there's not much space left on the cramped peninsula for people to actually live on. Instead they spill out into the city's only suburb, Floriana, and all the connected small towns that make up the patchwork super city of urban Malta.

It may be small, but it is still magnificent. It draws comparisons with other great Mediterranean cities, and the likes of Benjamin Disraeli considered it an equal of Venice and Cadiz. Certainly its skyline, especially when viewed from Sliema across the harbour, is stunning, but there are many delights to discover too within its small, tight, steep streets. The highlight of all is probably the St. John's Co-Cathedral, a sumptuous palace of a church built with the overflowing coffers of the Knights of Malta.

Valletta was born of the famed Siege of Malta, one of the greatest battles in history that lasted four months and cost tens of thousands of lives. The Knights of Malta built a fortress in Birgu overlooking the Grand Harbour. When the Ottoman Turks came for Malta they laid siege to Birgu from across the harbour. This penisula, once cleared of Ottoman soldiers, was quickly converted into a new fortress city: One that would become the capital of the country.

The success of the Siege of Malta, and the fame of the Knights, brought streams of gold into the island and allowed Valletta to become one of the great cities of Europe. Despite some hideous bombing during World War 2, it retains this status of greatness in everything but size.

Directions: Take bus 12 or 13 from the coastal road stops in Sliema.

Walking along Tigne seafront I came upon this strange little building with a strange writing on it. Sea water distilling 1881. Thanks to Wikipedia I laer discovered that this was the first ever sea water distillery on the island of Malta and that it was used to provide fresh water to the British barracks on the Tigne Seafront. As far as I know it was in operation for only one year, then it housed a printing press. In 2010, when I visited Sliema, it did not look very operative…

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The duck's village on Manoel Island in sliema is a bizarre place: a fenced garden of improvised stone sculptures and decaying animal figurines as well as – obviously – real living ducks. And those ducks have houses, gardens, a cemetery and even a boat. Each house has a sign on top of it, with the name of the duck which inhabits it. A weird place… but I liked it.

Tallira shops are very popular in whole Malta becauyse everything they sell, sell it for 1 Maltese lira (pound). BTW 1 LM= 2.33- 2.4 euros.

In Tallira shops, for 1 pound you can buy:
- 4 0.5 liters cans of German beer
- large Malta flag
- 2-4 pieces of different food
- 1-2 pieces of different souvenirs...

This is the road that joins St.Julians to Sliema. If you follow this road you will end up in Sliema and the Strand of the Sliema Promenade. This photo was taken coming from the Sliema direction just opposite the Church of Balluta which is a small village that joins Sliema and St Julians. Just opposite the church there is Neptunes sports club and a little sandy bay which is not good for swimming as the sea is contaminated.