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We could not leave Oosterbeek without a visit to the Cemetery so after our visit to the Hartensten Museum and lunch we crossed the road and started up the hill. It was a little further than the 250m. indicated on the sign post on the main road but an easy enough, slightly uphill walk.
We passed the train station as we approached the top of the hill and learned we would be able to take the "Arnhem Sprinter" back to the city to rejoin our ship in good time.
As with every official War Cemetery we have visited this one too is in a peaceful, semi-rural location with beautifully cared for grounds.
1754 Allied soldiers, sailors and airmen were laid to rest here after the bloody battle of Market Garden.
The memorial buildings and tributes near the entrance to the cemetery record in considerable detail the events of 17 -25 September 1944.
A simple small plaque records the annual visit of local children to the cemetery for a service of remembrance and their tributes of flowers.
A poignant and sobering visit.
Updated Jun 28, 2012
Jits Bakker is one of the most famous living artists of Netherlands.
He was only 7 years old when he witnessed the horrors of battle and experienced being under siege and occupation.
His father was later to die in a concentration camp.
These childhood events were to profoundly effect his development and philosophy as an artist.
For him there would be none of the glorification of battle and of heroes typical of pre-WW1 artists, rather the "sorrow and the pity" of war and the everlasting hope for peace and reconciliation.
His work "We'll meet again in London" was done in honour of the veterans of the Airborne Operation Market Garden and as a reminder to future generations that freedom cannot be taken for granted.
The statue stands near the entrance to the Museum (note The Needle obelisk in the background).
It is Bakker's intention that the statue should eventually be placed in London when a suitable site is found and finance becomes available to move it.
The two smaller bronzes stand in front of the beautifully restored Hartenstein. The first seems to represent a parachutist whilst the second appears to be a Guardian angel .
Updated Jun 9, 2012
As you enter the Park and take the path towards the Museum look to your right where you will see one of the first Monuments to be erected here in memory of the battle of Arnhem.
Called "The Needle" it stands many feet high and weathering of the stone and brick-work made it difficult to make out the figures at the base and particularly at the top of the column.
But the figures seem to represent collectively all the people involved in the conflict the miltary and the civilian, their suffering and attempts to survive and protect each other.
The Needle was created by the sculptor Jacob Maris and erected here in 1948.
Written Jun 9, 2012
Sabelspoort fortress. Many historical events are connected with this building. The fort was built in the end of the 15th century and for a long time it was used as a prison. Today only several towers remind of the gloomy past of this fortress. All halls have been turned into space for the National Heritage Museum.
Written Jun 7, 2012
Castle Doorwerth is close to Arnhem. It 's very old castle and many time was changed, but still very nice . In this castle you can see Dutch Artillery Museum. And in a yard you can find the nice restaurant. More about this old castle you can read here http://www.castles.nl/doorw/doorw.html
Updated Jun 5, 2012
This is a smallish museum of modern art housed in a 19th century building. This allows for some surprising contrasts. There were several interesting exhibitions as well as a small shop and the attached cafe. It's just up the hill from ArtEZ.
Updated Sep 5, 2011
Address: Utrechtseweg 87
Phone: +31(0)26 377 53 00
The Kröller-Müller Museum, to the North of Arnhem, boasts the second largest collection of Van Gogh's as well as a sculpture garden, and is surrounded by- unexpectedly for Holland- a large area of inland sand dunes, traversed by a single cycle path. Looming out of the desert landscape, it makes for a surreal sight, and nothing like one would have imagined.
Bikes can be hired from the National Park entrance (we walked, but on a hot day, this makes no sense) and deposited at the Museum. As we were staying in Arnhem, we found a ride on a free park minibus which took us to a village outside the park, from where buses to Arnhem were regular.
As we did, this can easily be combined in a day with the Oorlogsmuseum, and will certainly make for a different kind of cultural experience to the stately art galleries and collections of the Dutch cities.
Updated May 27, 2011
Address: Houtkampweg 6 6731 AW Otterlo
Though somewhat off the beaten track, this museum- the work of a collector, is a fascinating, intricately detailed insight into the events prior to, during and after the Market Garden campaign of 1944. Upon entering the building (a school house used by the Gestapo and Dutch Resistance during the events), there could be no preparation for the scale of the Tardis-like interior. Meticulously, the curator, whose knowledge and enthusiasm far exceeds expected, has compiled a collection of what must have been over 300 firearms, as well as uniforms, maps, furniture and other exhibits (my personal favourite being the motorbike inside a canister, as dropped by the British Army). Well worth the entrance fee, cannot be missed for anyone with any interest in, connection with, or knowledge of Market Garden. Children will be bewildered by the weapons even if the history doesn't sink in.
Updated Apr 4, 2011
Address: Kemperbergerweg 780 6816 RX Schaarsbergen
I spent over an hour walking around looking for internet access, and finally found "Gamewalker Arnhem" right downtown. Very easy to miss as it's just in a row of shops. Reasonably priced. Also has games.
Updated Apr 4, 2011
Address: Gele Rijders Plein 34
Phone: 026 3512700
I hadn't expected to get a castle visit in on a trip to the Netherlands but it turns out Holland has a rich heritage of fortified stately homes. One of the best for location and atmosphere is Kasteel Doorwerth, overlooking the Rhine West of Arnhem. Reconstructed after heavy damage in WW2, it resembles a quite bizarre fusion of Germanic grandeur and English cosiness. There is a museum on the top floor on the theme of ecological management.
Written Jan 3, 2010
Address: Doorwerth, near Oosterbeek
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