Vondelpark- Amsterdam, Netherlands

Could it be the coffee shops? The bike riding lifestyle? Or the brick roads of the city center? No one was running on the streets of Amsterdam. My 3 guide books say nothing on the subject of running. Our smashing hotel staff suggest running in Vondelpark, the largest park in Amsterdam.
I take an easy-to-manage tram to Vondlepark. At 8:30 am, the park is serene and verdant. Runners are doing their thing! A 4K asphalt bike route and a dirt path ring the park (with straightforward signs to guide me.) While running, I spot a tree full of green parrots! The grand Filmmuseum of Amsterdam (with requisite café) is located mid-park. Stately homes on tiny canals line the perimeter. Some vintage Clash and New Order feels right as I circle the park a few times.
The Dutch, the tallest people on earth, are invariably fit and great looking. We see few cars in the city and nonstop bikes. People of all ages and manners of dress ride them. The bikes are often decorated with Mexican oilcloth bike bags. The fashion: think Eileen Fisher goes Scandinavian hippie princess. Men and women wear messenger bags of smart design; a jewelry of sorts.
The bike riders are patient with Karen (quirky art teacher and treasured old friend) and I as we inadvertently step into the bike lane (watch out!!) People seem relaxed, open and friendly. In a country where tolerance prevails and people are directly connected to their environment, who needs to run and run? Very often, we spot men with their children. Is there a saner work/family dynamic here?
Coffee shops are not the totality of Amsterdam. In fact, the Dutch smoke less marijuana per capita then Americans. Coffee shops have a diverse vibe and clientele. Many are quite civilized and economical. Others are filled with exuberant kids with unfortunate tee shirts.
When it comes to getting around, Amsterdam is the great leveler. The city is not built on a grid. The canals ring the city in a mind boggling manner. On any given corner, people from all walks of life can be found scowling at their maps. The coffee shops cannot be helping this effort!
We visit the Van Gogh Museum. Only 1 wing of the Rijksmuseum is currently open due to renovation. We take in the spectacular Rembrandts, still lives and Vermeers. The fantastic modern art Stedelijk Museum is also currently closed for renovation. Some of its art can be found in the Van Gogh Museum.
We thoroughly enjoyed:
-The Museum of Bags and Purses/The Tassenmuseum–bags from the 1500’s to modern times. Words fail to describe these treasures!

-We caught Public Enemy at the opulent art deco Tuschinski Theatre.
-The Hermitage/Amsterdam, opened in 6/09, is an airy space filled with riches from the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. I was especially taken by the czarina dresses; sumptuous velvets with mirrors and to-die-for embroidery.

-The Amsterdam Public Library, the largest public library in Europe, was built in 2007 by Joe Coenen. This place defines visionary architecture.

-The markets- Albert Cuypmarkt, Westerstraat

-The FOAM contemporary photography museum

We relished the Netherland’s hearty bread, butter, cheeses and apple cake. Terrific Asian (Thai, Indonesian, Surinamese and Chinese) restaurants can be found everywhere. Most restaurants and stores do not accept credit cards.

Our magnificent hotel, the Grand Hotel Amrath, served for a decade as a major shipping office. It is replete with high ceilings, art nouveau décor, charming canal views, a fabulous pool and a FREE minibar every night! The staff is charming, friendly and quite literate (our young porter was fluent in 5 languages.) We purchased our rooms for $130.00 dollars per night via Hotwire. A recent NY Times column, Save or Splurge, Amsterdam on a $1000 Dollars a Day, recommended the Amrath! Could this trip get any better?
www.aboldpace.com

Vondelpark, Amsterdam

Amsterdam Hotels

Vondelpark, Amsterdam

Visiting Amsterdam?

Visiting Amsterdam?

Amsterdam Hotels