Oslo Off The Beaten Path

The underground (line 1) from Central Station goes up to Frogneseteren(more than 400 high).Another stop a few stations before the end is Holmenkollen,where is the famous Ski Tower.
Frognesetern is surrounded by forest with well marked trails.

Now a bakery (Vårt daglige brød) and a hairdresser salon, you can still ask to go down in the cellar and see the wall on which Euronymous scribbled the words Black Metal in black letters.
Tip dedicated to the nice people I met there (and, yes, that was voyeuristic for me, sorry): Oyvind, Harald, Jeff, Jon, Paal, Jesssica, and other Norwegians I hope to meet again.

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Take metro number 1 (Frognerseteren) or 3 (Sognsvann) to the last station and go hiking. Soon you will feel as if nobody else exists and you can smell the wood and see the lakes. Many signs tell you wich direction and how far to go. It's almost impossible to get lost, you might use a cyclingmap

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While the University of Oslo has a handsome classical building located in a strategic location downtown, on Karl Johans Gate close to the Royal Palace, the National Theatre and the Parliament, its main "Blindern" campus is located in the suburbs. Fortunately, it's just a short ride out on the subway!

In November 2007, I went out to "UIO" to visit an internet contact from another site. She showed me around her offices, we looked at the modern futuristic library, and had lunch in a campus cafe. The University of Oslo is a large, efficient institution with nearly 30,000 students in a variety of different "faculties". The architecture and style is very much "twentieth century international institutional," but this being Scandinavia everything is very clean and well-kept.

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Telenor is Norway's telecommunications giant, with an increasingly growing global presence. Up until recently, Telenor was state-owned, but it has been partially privatized in recent years. (I wonder if there are stock options for employees?) Obviously, they wanted to create a work environment that would make it possible for them to hire - and retain - a highly skilled (but potentially mobile) labor force. Telenor wanted offices that were aesthetically satisfying - compensation perhaps for the long hours that the employees put it. They spent 35 million NOK - about $5 million - just on art for this place. Leading international artists were brought in to help shape the environment. The North Building features a constantly scrolling videotext, flashing phrases and sentences in red: the work of American conceptual artist Jenny Holzer. It gives a strange flavor to the place: sometimes it seems just a little Orwellian. At other times, the text provides an ironic counterweight to the busy activity of Telenor's workers: it's somewhat peculiar that a telecommunications company should be patron for an art piece that suggests the banality of communications. (And it's in English!)

Hey, we're all globalized these days! It was an odd coincidence that I had just started reading Douglas Coupland's brilliant novel "Microserfs" before I arrived in Oslo. It's set in the Microsoft-land and the Silicon Valley in the 1990s, and follows the steps and mis-steps of a group of techno-geeks as they grapple with corporate buy-outs, start-ups, and their own emotionally messy lives. It's a brave new world of work. I noticed that there didn't seem to be anyone over 40 working at Telenor. I guess once you pass a certain age you are turned into Soylent Green.

The Borsen - the old stock exchange building - is a handsome early 19th century building, but in order to get a good view of it, you have to cross the major highway that bisects this part of old Oslo.

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Most visitors to Oslo will concentrate on the city itself. My hostess insisted I go for a walk in the woods on Sunday as "that is what Norwegians do". She packed smørbrød, hot tea and a pad for sitting on and sent me off.

Ride line 1 to the end of the line at Frognerseteren Metro Station then just follow signs North. At the bottom of the ski slope is a lodge where you can break for a light lunch. The deserts sold there are not to be missed.

The trails are well marked, just stay on the blue trails which are for walking. The red trails are for skiing and may go through bogs which are frozen in winter. The link on this page describes how the system works. It's nearly impossible to get lost as there are hikers every so often, the perfect blend of camaraderie and solitude.

Be sure to look for the berry bushes along the way.

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The river Aker is the most well-known of the many small rivers flowing through Oslo. It is possible to walk alongside it all the way from its origin up at the Maridal lake and down to the center of the city. By its path you will find green parks and nature trails, as well as historical industrial buildings and small wooden houses for the workers. There are many waterfalls, and the river has been the source of power for many industrial companies over the years. You may want to cross a few of the bridges along your way, they are numerous, ranging from small wooden footbridges to large highways. There's also a rich birdlife along the river, more than 50 species have been observed there.

About halfway on the western bank you'll find a small red wooden house. Inside there's a nice little gallery and a cafe. During summer's high season concerts and markets are held here.

For the sake of excercise I would recommend walking upwards, from the city to the Maridal lake. The altitude difference is approx. 150 meters. On summer days you can finish your walk taking a swim in the river at the popular bathing spot of Frysja.

Unfortunately, on the lower parts of the river you may encounter drug dealers and other criminals, but don't let them stop you from enjoying your day or from bringing your children along. Just ignore them and they will not approach you.

How to get there: If you prefer to walk upwards, take tram no. 11, 12 or 13 to Nybrua st., otherwise take bus no. 54 from Aker Brygge to either Stillatorvet or Frysja.