Bukowina Tatrzanska has two churches: a wooden one dedicated to the Holiest Heart of Jesus and consecrated in 1887 and a modern one, much bigger and rising high but not so charming as the little one. But the village congregation had grown so much that they could not possibly remain in the smaller building. The old church was designed and built by...more
It may seem a little strange to put Zakopane, the capital of the Podhale region under Bukowina, its smaller and less important sister. But as I am not going to write a separate page on Zakopane, where I have been many times but of which I have only black and white photos, I just want to signal that Zakopane is within half an hour bus ride from the...more
This is, or used to be, a lovely walk of 3 km one way but considerably uphill so it's better to make a stop or two on the way. You walk up the main winding road from the roundabout in the direction of Lake Morskie Oko. I said it used to be lovely because the traffic has now made it considerably less so. On both sides of the road you have spruce...more
Morskie Oko, the largest and best-known of all the Tatra lakes, is situated 1395 m a.s.l. Its name, which can be translated as Sea Eye, comes from an old legend claiming that it has an underground connection with the sea, hundreds of miles away. Surrounded by the highest peaks of the Polish Tatras, like Rysy (2499 m), and with the characteristic...more
Sabala, whose real name was Jan Krzeptowski, was a 19th century storyteller, poet, musician and Tatra lover from Zakopane. If you happen to be in Zakopane around mid-August don't miss the Festival named after him that takes place in the Folk Centre (Dom Ludowy) of Bukowina then. It's a festival and competition of storytellers, folk musicians of the...more
On this rather long, at least 4 km walk to the Bialka River and Jurgow you will pass two traditional villages - Brzegi and Jurgow. First, you must walk up along Tatrzanska St., and just past the last house in Bukowina take a road to the left leading to Brzegi. In Brzegi take the turning to the left at the forks and follow the main road. On the...more
Le?Na 12, Bukowina Tatrzanska, 34-530, pl
The restaurant is situated right by the roundabouts called 'klin' where all the roads meet at the top of the village. It's below the road but its terrace at the back offers a great view of the Tatras. The decor of the place is purely regional with lots of carved wooden ornaments. The food is delicious - mainly regional or Polish dishes, all freshly made so you may have to wait a little before being served. Great food and I am not saying this just because the owner of the place is our former landlady's son.
Favorite Dish: Barszcz (beetroot soup) with croquets, kwasnica (sour cabbage soup - local specialty), potato cakes with forest mushroom sauce, special kind of mushrooms (edible variety of agaric) called rydze straight from the frying pan, pancakes with sweet cottage cheese filling and whipped cream and many many more. No more freshly whipped cream with fruit, unfortunately, which I loved. :(
There are two ways of getting to Bukowina Tatrzanska by public transport: one is to take a train to Zakopane and change there for Bukowina - any buses going to Bukowina Dolna, Bialka Tatrzanska, Jurgow, but not Murzasichle or Male Ciche, will take you there. The bus terminus is just opposite the railway station. A bus to Lake Morskie Oko will do as well if it is not going through Zazadnia, but the buses to Morskie Oko are more crowded so it's better to take those going down to Bialka or Jurgow. There are three stops in Bukowina: Na Klinie, which means at the top of the village, by the Post Office, more or less in the middle, and by the church. Show the driver or some passengers the address you are staying at to be told where to get off. If you want to take a walk along the whole village get off at the top - it will be easier to go down than to climb all the way up. To take a walk to Glodowka to see the lovely views also get off at the top and follow the road to the right at the roundabout. If you only want to see the Glodowka Glade take a bus going to Lake Morskie Oko and get off at the next stop after Bukowina.
It is also possible to take a bus to Bukowina directly from Krakow, but there are only two I think per day. The terminus is at the top of the village - 'Na Klinie'.
These stalls at the roundabout in Bukowina and some in Glodowka sell all kinds of local craft, the local sheep cheese and lots of completely useless things, not necessarily produced locally. You will find some children's toys characteristic of the region, handmade woollen sweaters or socks, leather shoes and handbags with regional ornaments and...more
You can get everything there: from locally produced food, second-hand books, household gadgets, to clothes and furniture. But the most interesting are the local handicrafts - carved chairs and kitchen utensils, traditional children's toys, decorative wooden boxes, leather bags, wallets and slippers with traditional patterns, thick hand-knitted...more
The highlanders of the Podhale region make their own smoked cheese from sheep milk, often mixed with cow milk. The cheese comes in characteristic yellow or white barrel-shaped lumps of various sizes and is sold on stalls and in street markets. The lumps are decorated with traditional patterns often representing edelweiss, the mountain flower. I...more
Highlanders of the Podhale region are justifiably proud of their traditional dress. They don't wear it just for the festivals, but also to church on Sunday, fairs and other local festivities. The men's clothes are made of homemade woollen cloth and beautifully embroidered in characteristic patterns. On colder days a sleeveless sheepskin jacket,...more
Bukowina used to be such a nice quiet place, at least in the summer, that getting used to what it has now become is very difficult. The upper part of the village lies along the road to Lake Morskie Oko (the Sea Eye), a great tourist attraction visited by thousands of tourists every year. But there is another road leading to the famous lake from...more
If you arrive at Bukowina as unprepared as I was the first time I went there and you have no luck with the weather, you might not even know the place offers a great view of the Tatras. Hidden in the clouds, they might not appear at all for a long time - the whole fortnight in my case. But what a surprise it was to discover them there clearly...more
The Bialka Gorge is a real beauty spot with rocks overhanging the stone banks of the river, which seems to be teeming at this place. It's quite a popular place with tourists and local people but you won't find crowds there. You can have a picnic in the forest on the banks and wade in the icy cold water. I remember even swimming at a place where...more
The mountain meadow in the picture is situated off the main road about half-way as you walk towards Glodowka on your right. The great view is completely hidden from the main road by the forest, so only those who know it take this dirt road and after just about 20 m - there it is: a marvellous panorama of the whole Tatra range, sometimes seeming to...more
Bukowina Tatrzanska has a number of slopes with ski lifts, representing various degrees of difficulty, from ones for beginners to those for experienced skiers. They are not as crowded as those in Zakopane but you can expect quite a few fellow skiers at Christmas, for the New Year and at school holiday times, which vary for different regions of...more
To cycle in Bukowina you will need a mountain bike. The main roads are not so busy, though this depends on the season of the year, but steep at places, for instance, the road to Glodowka. But when you have already climbed it, you can race down without any effort at great speed, just mind the cars. The dirt roads are not too good for bikes, unless...more
The Sabala Folk Festival ends in a parade, where the artists ride along the village in a horse-drawn hay cart, heralded by riders on horseback and followed by a horse-drawn carriage or two for the ladies. The man at the head is dressed up as Janosik, the famous Slovak brigand, rumoured to have been robbing the wealthy to give the money to the...more
Bukowina abounds in paths. Follow as many as you can and you will discover its hidden treasures: unexpected panoramas of the Tatras, traditional timber cottages with their sloping roofs and eaves, mountain meadows with a hut or two, very handy when you are caught unawares by a downpour, clearings hidden in the forest, streams babbling in the...more