Suwalki Things to Do

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Situated just 1 km south-east of Punsk, there is a small Skansen Museum - 'The Lithuanian Farm'. The three farm buildings make a charming picture with their thatched roofs, the well with the wooden crane and the wooden fence surrounding it all. Although it was closed when we came, they opened the buildings for us, letting us see the interior of the farm with the traditional furniture, the old kitchen utensils and the traditional agricultural machines and tools. A most interesting exhibition.

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Suwalszczyzna abounds in post-glacial lakes. Situated north-west of Suwalki, Lake Hancza is the deepest of them with the maximum depth of 113 m. Its crystal clear water is a habitat of all kinds of fish, and even crayfish (vide:photo) but the area is a nature reserve so no fishing is allowed. The banks are mostly steep and high, with many boulders, which makes access to the lake difficult. The best place to get to it is the park with the ruins of the old manor at Stara Hancza. There is a car park by the road at the top and walking down you will soon get to the lake. Here is one of the few bathing places on the lake - the water is so shallow that even children can be allowed to bathe. Yet, most of the lake is accessible only to divers, who might like to explore its depths full of deep holes, ditches and ravines. They might even find the treasure hidden here by the withdrawing Napoleonic army, or so the legend says.

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Stanczyki is a village situated at the bottom of a deep post-glacial valley on the Bledzianka river and with two nice lakes nearby, where scouts and tourists often camp in the summer. But most tourists visit the place to see the enormous railway viaducts designed by Italian architects and constructed here in the years 1907 - 1926. The viaducts were supposed to be part of the railway line Goldap - Zytkiejmy - Gumbinnen. They were to be of great military importance to the Germans, but only one was ever used, laying the rails on the other one was interrupted by the outbreak of WWI. Truly imposing, 36 m high and 200 m long, they span the high banks of the Bledzianka river, which flows in a ravine. You can climb the viaducts to see the great view (there is a dirt road leading there) , or take a walk along the river underneath. Just a word of warning - the structure is not too safe. Don't lean on the balustrade and beware of pieces of concrete falling off the bridge into the valley as you pass under. We saw one of those, luckily from afar.

Surrounded by the Wigierski National Park, Lake Wigry is the largest lake in the area, with a maximum depth of 73 m. The trip around it on the tourist boat 'Tryton", the same that Pope John Paul II travelled on in 1999, lasts about 1.5 hour. The small bar on the boat even offers the famous 'Papal' cream cakes that the Polish Pope used to like so much, though I don't think they are as good as those in the Pope's hometown, Wadowice. There is a plaque to commemorate the Pope's visit but the armchair that the Pope sat in has had to be removed to stop the fights for the privilege of sitting in it.
The greatest attraction of the trip for me was the marvellous peace of the area as the lake is a silent zone and no muzak is allowed. Birdwatchers should bring their field-glasses with them just in case - there are many interesting birds around.

Trips run from 1.05 till 30.10 at 10.00, 11.30, 13.00, 14.30, 16.00 but there must be at least 5 passengers for the boat to go at all.
Tickets: adults - 20 zl, children 6 - 14 years - 15 zl, younger children - free

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The Order of Camaldolites came to Poland from Italy in 1605. Of their seven monasteries here, the one on Lake Wigry was the richest. The monastery in its present form was built in 1704 - 1745 when a fire destroyed the pre-existing wooden buildings. The complex consisted of a church, the monastery with a dining-room, the monks' house and a hospital, and the hermits' houses. There was also a clock tower, which can now be climbed to get a view of the lake and the area around. To prevent landslide, as the monastery is situated high up on a hill, enormous cellars were constructed under the building for support. Those were used by the monks to store wine, mead, beer and, according to a legend, may still hide the monks' treasures. The monastery was dissolved in 1800 by the order of the Prussian government. The monks are said to have left, despairing, walking on their knees in a procession. Local people say the track they made with their knees has been bare ever since. The buildings of the monastery were badly damaged in the course of the numerous wars. Re-built from ruin after WWII, it now houses a hotel. On the lower terrace, from which you can admire the view of the lake. there is an inn serving local dishes, quite expensive from what we have heard.

This may seem odd but one of the most interesting aspects of Suwalki are its cemeteries and by far the most moving is the Jewish Cemetery. Prior to World War II there was a large Jewish community and consequently a large cemetery. From what was explained to me, aside from rounding up the living, the Nazis were also intent on eradicating the memory of the past. To this goal the cemetery itself was bombed to destroy the remains of Jewish ancestors. The words "Przez HITLEROWCOW" on the memorial, mean "by the Nazis (or supporters of Hitler)" which describe this atrocity.

Special thanks to Virtual Tourist Ewa (evaanna) for help with the translation.

Immediately next to and in stark contrast to the Jewish Cemetery is the Old Believers Cemetery and the Molenna, a small timber church built at beginning of the 20th century. It was locked and shuttered up tight, and apparently is rarely open except for services. It is said to contain several very old original icons. As open and barren as the Jewish cemetery was, this cemetery was equally dense and dark with trees and foliage often obscuring the moss covered grave markers. This place was made for a full moon.

After the bombing, and obviously after the war, little remained of the Jewish Cemetery. In fact, today it is simply an open field. Nazi efficiency made the graves impossible to locate. What could be found, however, were the broken fragments of the tombstones. These were gathered up and respectfully built into a wall of memory, some pieces fairly complete, some with barely a letter or two, but all of equal value.