In the Jewish Quarter, Krakow

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me and my wife have eaten here on two occasions, last year and this. and the food as been excellent both times. i ordered steak done in tabasco sauce my wife ordered pork steaks, both came with wedged potatoes and fresh veg, big helpings too, this place looks like it is popular with the business clientele during the day, but i bet it's fairly good on a night as it's a very nice bar, we shall see next time.

Favorite Dish: only been twice but enjoyed it on both our visit's.

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There is a little place which used to be 4 shops...and now the walls are removed to create a larger cafe. They have retained the old tools of the trade which would have been in each of the little old fashioned shops. You might sit at the carpenter's bench or the tailor's sewing machine to sip your wine. A very nice young woman gave us wonderfully gracious service.
In one photo I'm enjoying some wonderfu Borsch. I thank Gosia for this photo. Notice the memorabilia hanging on the walls behind me.
Sometimes you find a place that is so comfortable that you return several times... and it begins to seem as if this is YOUR town. This restaurant made us feel that way.

Alef, on the main square in Kazimierz, is not to be confused with it's next door neighbor and rival Ariel. While in Krakow, we were told by locals that Alef is the original and more authentic of the two competing restaurants. You can certainly feel the difference when you go in-- while Alef reminds visitors in a subtle way of what pre-war Jewish life in Kazimierz must have been like, Ariel throws menorahs and other Jewish mementos in your face and feels very overdone. The food at both restaurants is good.

Another interesting tidbit: while filming Schindler's List in the early 90s, Spielberg and his crew often frequented Alef. You can see framed signed photos of Spielberg in the entryway.

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We visited a cafe while walking round Kazimierz- the Jewish Quarter of Krakow. There are many small and big cafes and restaurant there; we chose that because....this pavement cafe was in the rays of the Sun(and the day was too chilly to sit in the shadow. We didn't regret, although we didn't taste the dishes-only coffee and... as usualy an apple pie.

Favorite Dish: The apple pie was yummy, warm and poured with some vanilla sauce, ice cream and whipped cream. Also can't complain about the coffee!

Opposite the Remeh synagogue we stopped into the Alef in the afternoon and booked a table for later that evening before exploring further. When we returned we found the restaurant was actually much smaller than it appeared from outside - a mere 8 or 9 tables - booking essential ! Although clean and bright the decor looked as though it hadnt changed in 80 years - it really did feel like stepping back in time, pretend the war and holocaust didnt happen, enjoy the music food and conversation. The food was superb and the musicians absolutely amazing. It felt like being present at our own private recital. The incredibly superior (Jeevesian) maitre d' seemed to take great pleasure in turning away the hordes who appeared to beg a table as soon as the music started drifting through the window. We felt very smug that we got there first ! Highly recommended

Favorite Dish: The gesschelt ? fish - never had anything quite like it - nearly as hard to describe as it is to spell.

After visiting the Stara synagogue we went for a coffee in a nearby cafe. I don't remember its name but it's very easy to find - on the corner of ul Jozefa and Szeroka, the large main square in Kazimierz. The drinks were as good value as anywhere else in Krakow though the service was a little slow. There is a nice terrace from where you have a good view of the main square.

We spent our second morning in Krakow exploring the old Jewish sights in Kazimierz. As we were walking around we spotted some nice restaurants but when we returned at lunchtime one, Pierogi, a place serving traditional Polish dumplings, had no free tables while the other wasn't serving the dish that had caught our eye (unleavened bread?!)

In the end we went to the very modern Bagelmama beside the Jewish temple and next door to Bar Propagnada where we'd had few beers the night before. This was just what we needed. The friendly waiter spoke good English and we had a bagel each (hummus for me, tuna for Ruth) and we shared a plate of nachos with mild spicy sauce. All that and two drinks came to 33 Zl.

My wife and I were recommended a quaint little restaurant called 'Alef' on Szeroka. The menu choice was quite poor in comparison to other restaurants in the close vicinity. The restaurant however, did play live music ie traditional jewish music played on Double Bass, Violin etc. there was only one slight problem, when your bill arrived you were asked to pay for the music. Strange, it was only 4zl/person but I thought is was a little presumptious to ask the paying punter to pay for music which I myself found found quite depressing.