The Jewish Quarter (Kazimierz), Krakow

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I walked to look at this part of town as I was told what cheap and great food was available. Although quite a long walk to this popular part of town it is where local students hung out so I new that it also would be a good place to spend a little time.. the area was alive with pubs and music..I must say I found some great cheap food deals here and returned here many times while in Krakow..A great place to get an inexpensive meal .,listen to some good music and enjoy really excellent local beer..

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After the Second World War, Kazimierz, mostly deserted by its pre-war Jewish population, was populated by the poor. However, since 1988 a popular annual Jewish Cultural Festival has drawn Cracovians back to the heart of the Oppidum.

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I started, on a sunny morning, my visit of Kazimierz by following the promenade along the river Vistule-Wisla at the foot of the Wawel hill. Two hundred meters south of the bridge called Grundwaldzki appeared a white building commonly called Skalka which is one of the most important religious sites in Krakow.
There is a convent and a church called Pauline Church -Kosciol Paulinow. Well worth the visit. It was here that the bishop Stanislaw Szczepanski was beheaded by King Boleslaw in 1079. It was the family of the murderer who built the church to atone for the murder.
After that visit I continued to Plac Wolnica where at the corner stands the Corpus Christi Church - Kosciol Bozego Ciala. It is a massive brick church, one of the largest in town. Like often in Krakow the treasures of art are inside the churches. Most amazing is the imposing pulpit (1750) in the form of a boat with mast and sails supported by two mermaids.
Impressive both in size, handicraft and gilt is the main altar by Baltazar Kuncz in 1634.

On Plac Wolnica I visited the Ethnographical museum. Overlooked by tourists but really interesting.
Getting tired I did not continue to visit the Synagogues (for another year or another life) and on my way back to the river I visited St. Catherine's church - Kosciol Sw. Katarzyny. A church hiding a coffee bar in the cellars of the convent!
After three churches and one museum I thought deserving some rest at my hotel.

the remu'h synagogue was founded in 1533 by israel auerbach. the synagogue was named after auerbach's son rabbi moses remu'h. this is one of two synagogues in the jewish quarter that are active today. it is here that you can enter the remu'h cemetery. open to the public.

The booklet "Krakow in your pocket" mentions "if you want something completely different from the Old Town, here it is".

Indeed completely different and of no interest.
Comparing the fast food hatch Endzior as a must see like the Coliseum in Rome makes me suspect that either the redactor of "Krakow in your pocket" had been exaggerating on "pivo" or has acquired a high degree of self derision.

Nevertheless there are two interesting things at Plac Nowy:
1° There are a couple of taxis waiting to drive you back to the Old Town.
2° At 200 m southwards you will find the Basilica of Corpus Christi (Kosciol Bozego Ciala) a real must see in Kazimierz-Krakow.

PS. Reading again my nasty review and looking at those reviews about night life at Plac Nowy, I admit that my bad temper was due to the need of drinking a good Porter beer from Okocim brewery but this "Baltic Porters beer" seemed difficult to find in Krakow.

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Poland is known for its country wood carvers and their simple, charming portrayal of both religious and country life. We happened upon a gallery in Kazmierz District which specializes in such art work. He displayed the collection from an elderly man who lives in the country making the kinds of things shown in my shopping tip as well as here. The gallery owner will ship the pieces anywhere, which is good to know. When I asked about this service at the Cloth Market, the vendors were not willing to do such service. Please see other tips with more photos of other pieces found in this gallery. His selection was really quite nice.
There were wonderful old chests and newer painted chests and boxes in a few of the galleries and antique shops. The antique dealer was quick to tell me, however, that some of them cannot leave the country. Certain things from prior to 1935 cannot be exported. They are obviously trying to retain as many old cultural items as possible and I can't say I blame them in light of the fact that so much was lost in the course of the war. At any rate, don't be disappointed if you are going antique shopping in Poland. Some minor or small items can be carried out...but be certain to check before you finalize your purchases.

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This is the smallest but most active synagogue in Krakow dating from 1553

The cemetery was spared descreation by the germans because the locals buried the grave stones to keep them safe.

Well worth a visit.

The Old Jewish Cemetery (Remuh cemetery) has been in use since the 16th century, and several famous Jews have been buried here. In 1800 the cemetery was closewd and the dead were burried at the New Cemetery.

During the Nazi reign the walls of the cemetery were torn down and the tombstones removed, to be used as paving stones. Later tombstones used as paving stones were returned to the graveyard.