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by acemj We had a hearty meal at this family-run place and we have a little old man to thank. We were just strolling down the road when this guy motions for us to come and eat in his restaurant. His smile was so genuine that we had to give it a try. There's nothing fancy about the interior. Two rooms divided by a low wall are simply decorated. A television perched up high in a corner was showing the news and it appeared to be full of all locals, except for us. We were surprised when the waitress brought us a menu in Portuguese and another in English. Normally, I try to avoid places that have an English menu, but this place had great food.
I had Caldo Verde, a traditional Portuguese soup that I've even made at home (I love to cook too- there's more to life than just traveling - ha, ha). This soup is made from a potato based broth with kale and sausage. It was great. For the main course, I had the dish in the picture. I can't remember the name of it, but it was made of a chicken broth, with noodles and chunks of chicken, bay leaf, carrots and lots of other hearty stuff. Yum. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageAddress: Rua Nova off of Rua de SofiaPhone: 239 823 784
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Maybe the Fado is done for tourists here, but it sure doesn't appear to be as there were 6 or 8 guys, all of whom knew each other, who played the guitar and sang the poignant and soulful songs. It was a wonderful evening, sitting at the table just across from the singers and having a simple but delicious meal. The meal starte with an appetizer plate featuring a nice hard cheese, bread, butter and a sardine pate. I had never seen this before and gave it a try. It was okay but I am not much of a seafood eater so didn't eat much of it. The Fado show doesn't start until 9:30 or 10:00 p.m. We left around midnight and they were still going strong. I think the scheduled end is 2:00 a.m.
For our entrees we had a grilled pork chop and Steak Diligencia which was very tasty and topped with a fried egg. The salads were simple but very tasty - lettuce, tomatoes, carrots, onion and olives dressed with oil and vinegar. Both dishes were also accompanied by fried potatoes. Nothing fancy, but all delicious. We met a Lituanian couple at the next table who were just having coffee and dessert. Their chocolate mousse looked so delicious we had one for dessert. Nice sweet, creamy chocolate - can't beat that. I highly recommend this place for both the music and the food. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: US$11-20 » Currency ConverterComparison: about averageAddress: Rua Nova 30Directions: I took directions from Rick Steves and found them perfect: "from Praca 8 de Maio take Rua Sofia to your 2nd left. Diligencia is 2 blocks up on your right." When you leave Rua Sofia you will think you are in an alleyway but it is the right street.
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Right next door to the Church of Santa Cruz is the Cafe Santa Cruz where we stopped for a light lunch. Like much of Portuguese food, it was very simple, but they somehow always seem to manage to make even taste wonderful. I found again that my lack of adequate preparation made me miss something. The outdoor eating area is wonderful for people watching so we did not go inside at all. I understand that it was formerly a church and that the ladies room is in a confessional. Wish my wife could have checked it out. The cafe is also said to be the hangout for intellectuals in the 19th Century. Maybe I could have absorbed some intelligence if I had gone inside.
We had toasted ham and cheese sandwiches. My wife had what she said was good lemonade and I had a refreshing Super Bock beer. Very good and very inexpensive. Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: least expensiveDirections: Right next to the Church of Santa Cruz
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I will probably be killed by all the gourmets out there, but I can't resist to say that the best part of the portugese food-culture is the part that has been taken from abroad. And best of it all is the american "Pizza hut". In Sweden I more or less never eat there since the pizzas are small and expensive, but since the food in Portugal was so bad we ended up in this kind of restaurants 5-6 times during two weeks there. But specially in Coimbra and Porto this place was really nice! The service was good, the pizza were amazing and the beer was... oh soo good...
The bacon and ananas-pizza.... Yammi!! :) Leave a Comment Theme: PizzaPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: less expensive than averageDirections: In Coimbra the Pizza Hut is very close to the University-area. Just go from the University-zone, down against the center, and when you reach the first big street (after about 3-400 meters) you turn right, and you're there after another 30 meters.
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 I have a lot of photos of this lady eating by rexvaughan, 1 more photos Several places in Spain and Portugal serve the little custard tarts and all we tried were quite tasty. The best were in Belem outside of Lisbon, but the ones here were very good as well. I can't tell you why this is called Pastelaria Toledo but it is a good place for a stop right on Largo da Portagem. Nice pick me up after wandering the pedestrian street in front, the Rua Ferreira Borges.
Wonderful little tarts and coffee for about $4 for both of us. Leave a Comment Theme: BakeryPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: least expensiveDirections: On Rua Ferreira Borges at Largo da Portagem.
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Excellent place for a coffe or a drink to relax either at the end of a hectic day or at anytime you wish. Leave a Comment Theme: OtherAddress: Praça 8 de maio, 46Phone: (+351) 23 983 36 17Other Contact: E. mail: cafesantacruz@sapo.pt
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 Café Sé Velha Cervejaria (Coimbra, Portugal) by Redang, 4 more photos Nice place just in front of the Sé Velha (Old Cathedral). Leave a Comment Theme: LocalAddress: Rúa Joaquim António de Aguiar, 130-136Phone: (+351) 23 982 84 73
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This is an elegant old restaurant reminiscent of bygone days and has wonderful Portuguese, as well as continental, cuisine. The walls are wood paneled which gives it a formal but relaxed feel. As the hotel is one of 5 Alexandre de Almeida hotels in Portugal, it has exclusive rights to serve Bussaco wine from the Almeida estate which purports to the be last hunting grounds of Portuguese kings.
We both had the gespacho which was nice but a little thin and shared appetizers of tuna, carrots, olives with toast rounds and herb butter. The roast Iberian pig was very succulent and accompanied by an unusual but good spinach puree and a combination of rice and wild rice. My wife had the grouper in a nice light sauce with a vegetable medley of zuchinni, carrots, rosemary olives mushrooms, etc. Simple but light and tasty. The desserts were also very good - one ice cream surrounded by cooked apples and one with a nice raspberry sauce on top. Always important to me, the coffee was excellent as well. This is an upscale restaurant so is certainly not on any budget list. However, if you are in the mood for a fine meal in a grand old hotel, this would be hard to beat. Leave a Comment
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by rexvaughan This may be part of a chain of Nicola restaurants and is not haute cuisine, but is a nice spot for snacks and refreshment which are simple and basic but very good. We stopped here a couple of times as it is located in the sort of crossroads of the old city right on the Largo da Portagem which makes it a good people watching spot as well.
After a frustrating and fruitless search for a place we wanted to go one evening, we stopped here for a late bit to eat we had pizza Bologanese, a simple cheese and minced beef one that was quite tasty and inexpensive. A small but decent glass of wine is only 1.25 Euros Leave a Comment Theme: LocalPrice: less than US$10 » Currency ConverterComparison: least expensiveDirections: Behind the big statue on the Largo da Portagem
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Ze Manel dos Ossos (downtown, near Coimbra's railway station. Quim dos Ossos (near Avenida Sa da Bandeira). The employees humor. Absolutly fantastic. The walls are full of pieces of paper towels. When people go there they use to write something on the towel and fix it on the walls. There are texts written in several languages: portuguese (the majority), spanish, english, chinese... On a wall there is a placard with a picture of a fat man eating and a sentence written on the top: 'Eat sh*t! 487 billion flies can't be wrong.'
Javali with beans at Zé Manel dos Ossos (around 7 Euros per person). Leave a Comment Theme: OtherComparison: less expensive than averageAddress: Beco do Forno, 12 3000-192 CoimbraPhone: +351 239 823 790Directions: Downtown.From Coimbra's railway station,walk forward,pass Hotel Astória, until the end of the sidewalk. Banco de Portugal on your right.Walk down the street (Astória on your left) and turn to the right on the second alley.Don't be intimidated by the look.
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