Ribeira, Porto

Every decent Port wine bottle in the world must have "Vila Nova de Gaia" written on its label, or so it is established under the strict "Origin Denomination" label of Port Wine. Therefore, the south shore of the Duoro is the place to taste, buy and definitely enjoy that variety of wine, while admiring the fascinating Ribeira district.

But again, that's just the surface of Vila Nova. Even if the UNESCO forgot to include Porto's sister city into the world heritage designation, this side of the river treasures a good deal of charm into its little streets. As the beauty is in the eye of the beholder, one should not be blinded about labels or designations. This could be applied to wine varieties or cities. ;-)

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Every time I went to Porto, I came with the sensation of disappointment, because it was easy to see the potential of this quarter to boost Porto's authenticity, but the ruined look, dirtiness and bad frequency spoilt everything.

I went there one more time, and... congratulations. The recuperation was well achieved, the colours glow in the reflexions in the water, and visitors are well received, feeling comfortable and pleased. An example to continue and follow.

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It's a maze of narrow streets which could remind of Lisbon's Alfama if granite was not used in the houses.

It's an area where many poor people live. Shockingly many houses are so run down. I do not really know why an area of the second most important city of Portugal with so many tourists, can be like this. The plans to renovate the city center have been put off due to lack of money, but there's money for redundant projects such as the high speed trains or there was for the Expo98 in Lisbon.

Some streets are renovated such as the one in the first picture, but lot more has to be done.

Despite the poor condition of some of the houses, and some junkies and Eastern European gypsies who come by begging, the area is quite safe. A good thing about Oporto in comparison with Lisbon is that it's calmer. People are less aggressive and less arrogant than down here in the capital city. The fact that Oporto is a smaller city contribute to that.

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Near to the Ponte Dom Luis 1, at the start of Ribeira, is this monument, consisting of a bronze plaque, with a shelf below, on which candles are placed. The monument was erected in 1897.
It commemorates the tragedy of the Ponte Das Barcas.

On 28th March 1809, the citizens of Porto were threatened by siege from advancing French troops. A pontoon bridge that crossed the River Douro was their only means of escape to Gaia. Unfortunately, due to the weight of the fleeing crowds, the bridge collapsed, and hundreds (or even thousands- records are a bit hazy) lost their lives.

While I was here, I witnessed a lady dressed in black, placing a lit candle onto the shelf.
So I came back later to take these pictures.

Apparently this is a place of pilgrimage for relatives and inhabitants of Porto.

Ribeira is probably one of the hearts of the city. By the river with the beautiful medieval houses that made Porto a World Heritage town, by the river that brought wealth and goods to the city, next to the most beautiful bridge of Porto (D. Luís I), overlooking Gaia and the wine cellars that made Porto famous. Today it is full of bars and restaurants most of them too touristique but others that still retain the charm of the old Porto. It is believed that it was here that Infante D. Henrique, one of the strategists of the portuguese nautical adventures, was born (the house can be visited).
It was here that Deocleciano Monteiro lived, also called Ribeira duke, a man that from 1902 to 1996 saved many of drowning by the wild waters of the river.
From times long gone, even from Romans, the area of Ribeira was used as a harbour and beautiful buildings were built throughout history from churches (such as São Francisco), Palaces (such as Bolsa) and Markets.
Porto was a trading and commercial city dominated by the church and all of that can be seen and felt in this place.
The colourful buildings by the river reminds everyone of the beauty of the city. Behind the colourful facades of granite houses, most of the time, there is no one left but ghosts of those that left this beautiful centre for the brand new houses of the outskirts of Porto.
In this postcard of the city it is difficult to imagine the tragedy of barcas bridge. Thousands of people fleeding from the town that was being invaded by the French forces of Napoleon in 1806. The bridge was done of ships attached to each other by steel cables that broke when the multitude of people tried to cross. Some believe 4.000 people died in the cold and grey waters of the Douro River.
Porto Carlton hotel is a nice 5 stars hotel in Praça da Ribeira the most important of this part of town known for its cube statue.

Ribeira, lines the banks of the River Douro, from the foot of the Ponte D. Luis, along towards the Praca da Ribeira.

This historical (UNESCO protected) area of Porto is well worth a visit, whether just to stroll along the riverside, enjoying the atmosphere, or to linger for a cool drink or meal at one of the many cafes and restaurants.

On a blue skied and sunny warm March afternoon, it was very pleasant to be able to chose a table at one of the pavement cafes and enjoy a leisurely drink, and a chat, watch the boats gliding up and down the Douro, be entertained by the musicians and singers, and people watch. I should imagine that at the height of summer it's quite crowded and probably not so relaxing.

At night time, it was too cold to sit outside, the area changed in character completely, with the thick sea mist swirling around, and the streets leading off Ribeira, being quite dimly lit and narrow, it reminded me of Les Miserables, or a Charles Dickens scene - there were some dubious looking characters around too.

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It was one of my favourite things about Porto - the architecture of this place is fantastic!

It's one of the most lively spots of the city, both during the day and night. There are a lot of bars and restaurants - we ate a very nice "francesinha" in one of the bars (the one closer to the bridge). There are also a lot of souvenir shops - and a lot of pigeons, so be careful! Either if you want to sit and relax with a beer, or just sit in one of the benches, it's very relaxing to watch the river, with boats passing every minute.

Originally the site of a medieval market, then modified in the 18th Century, when part of the old city wall was demolished to make a clear opening to the river, this plaza is now a lively place to meet for drinks and eating.

The small cafes encircle the square, with tables and chairs crammed into the cave like premises. Tables and chairs spill over into the square, with the chance to enjoy a drink or meal, overlooking the river.

A couple of fountains add to the atmosphere.