Perast is a jewel at the Kotor Bay with many venetian palaces which give the tourist an impression of a royal history of that old town. An off-season visit to Perast leads the guest to the one and only open restaurant which offers a promising menu to any hungry person. The sweet expectation of the avalanche of tastes was immediately destroyed by the appearance of the waiter. Asked about the only free table the waiter replies that it was reserved since my age apparently did not give him any hope of sighting a heavy wallet. After expressing my interest of having a lunch, the miracle happened and the table was given free immediately (to more than one person). Two english speaking guests at the table next to ours kindly asked the waiter if they could order since he apparently had not have much interest of coming near to their table for a long period of time. Without turning his face to them he replied that he will come soon and then he has left them enjoying the sunset for the next twenty minutes or so. We were the next guests and had a privilege of taking the menus from the nearby table by ourselves and had plenty of time for browsing trough them. The two english speaking guests changed the table to the one they though might be a strategically better one for attracting the waiter's attention. While the waiter patiently waited for another guest to pay we kindly asked him if we could order. He turned his nose to us and with a trained fortissimo rudely replied that he will come after he finishes with the bill, then he turned his back to us again. His voice combined with his facial expression could be a welcome replacement for a dartboard with his coffee-colored front teeth sticking out of his mouth as a center of it. If members of Monty Python's Flying Circus would have visited the Restaurant Conte before the Gleneagles Hotel, the idea about Fawlty Towers would have been born right there in Perast. One can imagine that we were not the only guests who immediately left the restaurant without wishing happy new year to the waiter. But he did not mind. I can only hope that his philosophy is a unique one in that area: Do not bother if the guest leaves - the next one will come soon. Hopefully the fish tastes good in Restaurant Conte since my appetite has vanished before I got a chance of coming in touch with some food there.
Favorite Dish: Fresh air.
The place, located by the sea of Perast, is a very old building belonging to the ancestors of the current owner, from whom he has now inherited it. The most recent restoration it has gone through took place in the 1700s. Made by stone, it has a small yard with few tables in the shadow. Sitting at a table near the thick stone walls ensures shadow and coolness on a hot afternoon!
The owner, Miljan, is an authentic Montenegrin, helpful and good-hearted, though rather distant and not very talkative with strangers. It was his unique involvement and passion with Greek ancient history and our interest in local tradition that triggered-off our conversation and exchange.
Favorite Dish: Of course, the mussels buzara, made with red sauce, a Montenegrin specialty!
Try local wine, it has flavour and low price!
Konoba Milinovic (previously 'The Amfora') is very conveniently situated for the Boka Bay Bed and Breakfast at which we have stayed, and, as it is suspended over the bay, doesn't feel as close to the road as the Restaurant Conte. On our visit in 2007 we felt that both the food and the service was rather mediocre, and Andrea's report of the ladies' loo was decidedly negative. However, when we stopped there for a drink in 2008, it had been been smartened up and the service was good, but we didn't have a meal on that occasion.
This place is EXCELLENT. Not cheap, mind you, but not exorbitant. You sit outside (or I did - this was in September) on the sort of platform jutting out over the bay. Tables with plenty of space between them. Attentive waiters, but not standing too close, and the half-bottle of wine they brought me was excellent - and just right with the prawns.
If the weather's dodgy or you you want some shade, you can also eat inside – I had my breakfast there (very good too) the next morning. I see on the website they also have a few rooms.
Favorite Dish: I had prawns in sauce, and they were the best prawns I’ve ever had. In fact it dawned on me as I ate that THIS is what prawns SHOULD taste like, that I'd subconsciously known it all the time, and the reason why I’d been slightly disappointed with prawns everywhere else is because they hadn’t tasted like this. A French-trained chef, maybe ?
The Restaurant Conte is a popular open air restaurant, which is sandwiched between the bay and the road, and which has opened since our stay in Perast in 2005. Unfortunately, on the one occasion that we ate there, the road was unusually busy, which rather detracted from our enjoyment of the meal, as our table was immediately adjacent to it.
This was the only restaurant open when I visited Perast. It is right in the center of the village by the bell tower of St. Nikola.
The restaurant is not cheap but the quality was very good...good wine, appetizers, seafood, and pasta. The restaurant has seating with views of the bay. The outside seating in the square is for drinks only.
For information on this restaurant and others in Perast, check the attached website address. This is a wonderful website for information on Perast, with beautiful photos! Press "Visit Perast!"
We did not eat in Perast but noticed a few classy establishments around. We only wanted a drink and the best place for this was at the Hotel Conte entrance in front of St Nicholas Church.