Belgrade Restaurants

Zapravo nemam pojma kako se ovaj kafic zove, bilo je rano jutro i tek sam stigao s nocnim vlakom iz Zagreba, puno prerano da mogu normalno funkcionirati prije jutarnje kafice. Taxi me doveo, kako sam trazio, na Trg Republike a ovaj kafic je odmah tamo negdje u blizini, nekako se naslanja na Knez Mihajlovu ali su stolovi uvuceni i na malom trgicu. Svidjeli su mi se podmetaci pod guzu i ledja jer su obecavali udobno sjedenje.

Favorite Dish: Konobar je bio dobar lik za rano jutro, nije puno pricao a hitar na nogama. Narucio sam dupli espresso i friski hrskavi croisant, jos topao pa nisam odolio a da ne poduplam. Svaka cast Beograde, ovakav croisant a pogotovo espresso ima prolaz i usred Milana.
E sad hebiga, ne znam jel' me odralo il' nije. Kako nisam imao dinare platio sam ceh u eurima, pardon evrima, i otelo mi 15 malih zelenih. Meni se to ne cini previse za takav kafic na takvoj lokaciji, a mozda sam ispo' papak.

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It seems that we sent a lot of time in this restaurant! This was due to staying in the hotel, holding a meeting in the hotel and breakfasting in the hotel.

The service and menu were good - the staff very professional and quick.

Favorite Dish: Breakfast selection good, main courses enjoyable.

Have a steak, they used smoked beef!

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The café was originally built in the 1820’s and is one of the sole surviving buildings from that era. It was sold to Prince Miloš Obrenoviċ who in turn presented it to his doctor. The doctor opened a kafana here which changed hands and names in subsequent years. One of the names – “By the Cathedral” – didn’t sit well with the religious authorities across the street and a temporary sign was put up which hand a question mark on it. The name stuck. It is a nice place for a beer or a meal and inside is supposed to be special, but to be honest; it was so hot when I visited all we wanted was an outdoor seat in the shade and a half liter of cool pivo.

Favorite Dish: Pivo - tall and cold. When it is nearly 40C, nothing beats it.

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During the wonderful premeet for the Macedonian Euromeetn 2011 we were hosted by Keti in Belgrade, and a wonderful experience it was. As one of the events, Keti had organised a typical Serbain meal for us in the Restaurant Sindjelic and it was quite magnificent. I have to preface this tip by saying that Eastern European restaurants do not seem to understand the concepts of diet, light bites or small portions. If you are eating here you had better be very hungry and even then I will be surprised if you finish what you are served, it is like some sort of eating competition. Vegetarians and vegans beware, there is a lot of meat involved. The upside, of course, is that it is all extremely tasty.

The restaurant itself is a pleasant room and seems to be associated with a foiotball club as you can see the pitch from the large picture windows. It is not at all central and we took about a 30 minute trolleybus ride to get there. You are certainly not going to stumble on it accidentally as it is in a residential suburb but it is worth seeking out. The toilets are immaculate and smoking is allowed (as seems normal locally) which may not be to everyone's taste. Service was good if unhurried with one slight hitch which I will describe later.

As we were a group, Keti had arranged a set menu, so I am not sure how this compares with the a la carte menu, but we were assured that all the food was genuine traditional Serbain fare. The starters first, as pictured, involved a plate of delicious cured ham, Serbain cheese, a stuffed pepper breaded and fried, a corn meal muffin (unusual but tasty) and a dairy product whose name I cannot remember. It is the ice cream scooped shaoe on the photo. I would describe it as being somewhere between semi-set youghurt and cottage cheese and it was a pleasant discovery.

Then to the mains, served on burners which, as I say, involved large amounts of various meats, what I would describe as shish kebab and a few fried potatoes thrown in as a concession to vegetables. All were cooked to perfection and extremely toothsome but really a test of your belt's capacity.

As if that was not all enough, they then bring plates of the most amazing looking desserts. I do not normally eat dessert and indicated I did not want any but they still contrived to bring me one, a baked apple affair whcih was delightful although just too much food. There was a slight problem when they charged us for desserts we had not ordered but this may have just been a misunderstanding.

Be careful if you are using public transport and make sure not to miss the last trolleybus back to the centre as I would not be overly happy walking back through some of the areas on the route back late at night.

All in all, a wonderful place well worth seeking out.

Favorite Dish: I did rather like the starter plate as described above, the cheese was particularly good.

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Ресторан Синђелић
Liked the food liked the waterfall on the glass window.
Like the kind of garden

Favorite Dish: dessert was very nice and the rest was nice too

We had a group dinner (12-14 I think here). It’s 30 minutes from the city centre on the trolleybus. Yes, we all took the bus...

It was a good insight into Serbian cuisine - meze and then lots of meat!

Hard to tell with prices and service for a group dinner.

The last trolleybus back into town. Perhaps not what the guidebooks recommend when it comes to personal security.

Favorite Dish: The meat platter - main course

The whole Pre-Euromeet crowd had lunch here after our trip around town. The place was busy when we arrived, and a big 20+ group arrived just after us.

End result - scrappy service. My karađorđeva snicla was good, but the veggies were totally tasteless.

We also got entertained (or hussled) by their live musicians. Usually lunchtime is safe, but maybe they got bussed in specially to entertain the coach party.

We had a good time anyway!

Rita, Yelena & Katherine got a bit carried away by the music - see photo.

Favorite Dish: karađorđeva snicla - it's pork rolled with kaymak in side, then fried in breadcrumbs. Not sure how best to describe kaymak - cream cheese?

Another Skadarlija joint.

I had dinner here in a thunderstorm - it seemed like the only place with an awning which could hold back the rain, and it was warm so I didn’t want to eat inside.

It was good - I think I was the only touroid - the food was excellent and so was the service. Almost all Serbian food, but a few Italian things thrown in.

Live music - a violin, double bass, accordion & guitar combo. Not Roma, and I’m not sure what they played. Some traditional and some modern, I think.

1,700 dinars - main course, salad, dessert, 2 wines & a beer.

Favorite Dish: The ražnjići - pork kebab.