Not far east, off Trg Republike is the small street of Skardaška named in honor of the Albanian city of Shkoder from where many of the craftsmen living here hailed. They erected homes and businesses on grounds that had been earlier the haunt of Roma who had set up camps here in the 1830’s, though in the early 20th century the street became the center of Beograd culture. The Bohemians have moved on but the restaurants have remained with their plentiful flowers, gypsy bands and decent food. It is fun to watch the stylish women try and cope with the street’s cobblestone in their stiletto heels. On summer evenings, restaurants morph out onto the cobblestones themselves making the passageway sinuous. The musicians are quite talented, but ask them to play something by Markoviċ instead “I Did It My Way”.
I got to know this area like the back of my hand, as my B&B was there. Labelled the “bohemian quarter”. Well, it’s just 1 short pedestrianised street. It has plenty cafes and restaurants.
A couple of Italian places, a French one and mostly Serbian places. Complete with genuine Roma musicians.
Not sure about the latter... I’m more of a Lebanese belly dancer type when it comes to dinnertime entertainment. Mind you, overall I’d prefer my own company unless my favourite person is there.
It looks a bit run down, so maybe that contributes to the bohemian feel. I loved just being able to sit in a cafe with an espresso and watch the world go by.
*** In Belgrade you must see Skadarlia,19 century Bohemian street , (mentioned in restaurants part ) Cool food ( meat mostly ,LOL Serbs would die of hunger with no meat ), cool music ( old Serbian city music , live, ...... on your ear ) I think no one could resist that ....
This area was once the home of many Sebian poets, writers, artists and actors. The stoned Skadarlija street is now the place where you can find some really nice restaurants with bohemian traditions. The wall of the buildings are almost all painted with frescos and this gives a special atmosphear to the all area. I thought to find some street artists, but the street was totally deserted.You definitly feel the atmosphear of the street that had been once, but unfortunatly, only the atmosphear and the re3staurants are left.
What is Skadarlija?
It is bohemian soul of the city. It is the cobbled street lined up with a famous restaurants. It is the best place to "taste" real Serbia. Place, to get familiar with the local food and listen to the local music. It is a place to meet your fellow travelers ( those few tourists are most likely to meet there). Great place to get drunk. It is a place.... It is the MUST SEE place.
Skadarlija is the Bohemian quarter of Belgrade. The streets are all in the old cobblestone style and it's a great place to go and have traditional dinner. It's nice to go at night because that's when Skadarlija comes alive. People come out at night and open stalls to sell antiques, books, jewellery, art and many other strangeand interesting things. There is traditional Serbian food in the restaurants and the waiters sing traditional songs and play the violin, like in the romantic films. It's made for tourists! But there will be more about this in my restaurant tips!
It is located inn front of the house of Ðura Jakšiæ in Skadarlija, bronze 150 cm. Erected in 1990. Author: JOVAN SOLDATOVIC.
(Srpska Crnja, 1832 - Belgrade, 1878), writer and painter
He has studied fine arts in Vienna and Munich. He has been a teacher and professor in various towns in Serbia. He belongs to the most expressive representatives of Serbian romanticism. Passionate, of impetuous imagination, flamy emotions, rebellious and a freedom-lover, he has written, with romanticist pathos, songs about freedom, against tyranny, and verses of lyric confession full of deep pain (nevertheless, he also had nothing against dedicating a collection of poems to Knez Milan). He has written some forty short stories, some of them designes as novels. He has written three dramas: "Stanoje Glavaš", "Seoba Srba", and "Jelisaveta". He was one of the most talented Serbian painters of the XIX century and most prominent representative of romanticism in Serbian painting. He has been buried as one of the most respected and loved artists of Belgrade.
Skadarlija was the bohemian area of old Belgrade, located between what are now Cetinjska, Makedonska and Skadarska streets. It grew up spontaneously around the turn of the century, following the building of a brewery here in 19th century, which led to the opening of a number of cafes. Close together in one short street, they became the meeting place of artists and writers, who spent the better part of their lives in the "Tri sesira" (Three Hats), "Dva jelena" (Two Deers), "Zlatni bokal" (Golden Chalice), "Skadarlija", and other hostelries.
A large part of Skadarska is faced with a large wall of a not-very-interesting modern building, so to make it more appealing, this large mural of old-style street images was painted over the plain surface.
Skadarska ulica - the heart of what is called Bohemian Belgrade. This street is lined with many well known restaurants (Dva Jelena, Tri Sesira) famous for their Serbian grilled meats and the traditional city bands that will serenade you (tips welcome, even expected). For the vegetarians (like me) there are also a couple of nice pizza/Italian restaurants along the way with some good meatless selections. Come in the evening to enjoy the local food and beverages. There are quite a few good beers produced in Serbia, but everyone seems to differ about which is the best. You may have to try several of them to decide for yourself. You can also enjoy Skadarska in the day when it is rather quiet and you can enjoy atmosphere tranquilly.
It is often compared with the Montmartre in Paris, both for its appearance and the cheerful, artists atmosphere. In this pedestrian street you can see (and feel) the appearance of the city, as it was in the 19th and early 20th century. Restaurants and pubs fill most of it with their open-air tables, there are art galleries and bakeries open all night, folk groups singing either gypsy music or traditional city music. This is a place to taste the typical “rostilj” (barbecue), and to spend an evening talking with friends.
This is definitely Must see place in Belgrade.
Pretty much any metropolis in the world has a quarter that serves as a sentimental retreat, where people can relax and unwind in a warm and hospitable ambient. Paris has Montmartre and Belgrade has Skadarlija.
This bohemian quarter is located in the very centre of Belgrade. Skadarlija is located in Skadarska Ulica (Skadarska Street). This short, cobblestone street is the home to many national restaurants. The main appeal of Skadarlija is its quaint charm, old buildings, cozy restaurants with live music and tons of people.
Skadarlija dates back to late 19th and early 20th century. The name Skadarlija comes from the name of the street Skadarska. The street was named after the town of Skadar. Skadarlija took on a bohemian flare in the early 20th century when famous writers and actors moved into the area.
Skadarlija also contains a replica of the Sebilj cesma (Sebilj fountain). The original is located in the old part of Sarajevo, called Bascarsija. The fountain was a present of the city of Sarajevo to the city of Belgrade.
What to do in Skadarlija? Come here with friends for a night of rostilj and pivo (grilled meat and beer). For the ladies, do not wear stilleto heels here. They will get stuck between the cobblestones. I did this once when I didn't really plan on going to Skadarlija and walking around Skadarlija became really painful.
The area known as Skadarlija was the Bohemian quarter of Belgrade from the early 1800s. It gets its name from Skadarska St -- which was officially organized in 1872. Now it is a cobblestone street of restaurants and galleries.
Another scene from the night in Skadarlija - musicians playing traditional music. They go from table to table, and people "order" songs, so the whole restaurant sings along.
This photo is from the old, famous restaurant "Dva Jelena" (Two Deers), August 2002.
Skadarlija is Belgrade's old bohemian quarter, wherepoets, artists and musicians of 19th century began to gather, to read poetry, play music, paint, discuss and above all, have a great time enjoying Belgrade's night's pleasures.
The street is cobbled, and full of very old cafes and restaurants, many with traditional old music, picture galleries, night clubs, local food kiosks, breweries and so on...
It is always full of people, especially in the summer, when the carnival atmosphere never stops.