Skadarlija, Belgrade

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Not far east, off Trg Republike is the small street of Skardaška named in honor of the Albanian city of Shkoder from where many of the craftsmen living here hailed. They erected homes and businesses on grounds that had been earlier the haunt of Roma who had set up camps here in the 1830’s, though in the early 20th century the street became the center of Beograd culture. The Bohemians have moved on but the restaurants have remained with their plentiful flowers, gypsy bands and decent food. It is fun to watch the stylish women try and cope with the street’s cobblestone in their stiletto heels. On summer evenings, restaurants morph out onto the cobblestones themselves making the passageway sinuous. The musicians are quite talented, but ask them to play something by Markoviċ instead “I Did It My Way”.

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I got to know this area like the back of my hand, as my B&B was there. Labelled the “bohemian quarter”. Well, it’s just 1 short pedestrianised street. It has plenty cafes and restaurants.

A couple of Italian places, a French one and mostly Serbian places. Complete with genuine Roma musicians.

Not sure about the latter... I’m more of a Lebanese belly dancer type when it comes to dinnertime entertainment. Mind you, overall I’d prefer my own company unless my favourite person is there.

It looks a bit run down, so maybe that contributes to the bohemian feel. I loved just being able to sit in a cafe with an espresso and watch the world go by.

*** In Belgrade you must see Skadarlia,19 century Bohemian street , (mentioned in restaurants part ) Cool food ( meat mostly ,LOL Serbs would die of hunger with no meat ), cool music ( old Serbian city music , live, ...... on your ear ) I think no one could resist that ....

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This area was once the home of many Sebian poets, writers, artists and actors. The stoned Skadarlija street is now the place where you can find some really nice restaurants with bohemian traditions. The wall of the buildings are almost all painted with frescos and this gives a special atmosphear to the all area. I thought to find some street artists, but the street was totally deserted.You definitly feel the atmosphear of the street that had been once, but unfortunatly, only the atmosphear and the re3staurants are left.

What is Skadarlija?
It is bohemian soul of the city. It is the cobbled street lined up with a famous restaurants. It is the best place to "taste" real Serbia. Place, to get familiar with the local food and listen to the local music. It is a place to meet your fellow travelers ( those few tourists are most likely to meet there). Great place to get drunk. It is a place.... It is the MUST SEE place.

Skadarlija is the Bohemian quarter of Belgrade. The streets are all in the old cobblestone style and it's a great place to go and have traditional dinner. It's nice to go at night because that's when Skadarlija comes alive. People come out at night and open stalls to sell antiques, books, jewellery, art and many other strangeand interesting things. There is traditional Serbian food in the restaurants and the waiters sing traditional songs and play the violin, like in the romantic films. It's made for tourists! But there will be more about this in my restaurant tips!

It is located inn front of the house of Ðura Jakšiæ in Skadarlija, bronze 150 cm. Erected in 1990. Author: JOVAN SOLDATOVIC.

DJURA JAKSIC
(Srpska Crnja, 1832 - Belgrade, 1878), writer and painter

He has studied fine arts in Vienna and Munich. He has been a teacher and professor in various towns in Serbia. He belongs to the most expressive representatives of Serbian romanticism. Passionate, of impetuous imagination, flamy emotions, rebellious and a freedom-lover, he has written, with romanticist pathos, songs about freedom, against tyranny, and verses of lyric confession full of deep pain (nevertheless, he also had nothing against dedicating a collection of poems to Knez Milan). He has written some forty short stories, some of them designes as novels. He has written three dramas: "Stanoje Glavaš", "Seoba Srba", and "Jelisaveta". He was one of the most talented Serbian painters of the XIX century and most prominent representative of romanticism in Serbian painting. He has been buried as one of the most respected and loved artists of Belgrade.

Skadarlija was the bohemian area of old Belgrade, located between what are now Cetinjska, Makedonska and Skadarska streets. It grew up spontaneously around the turn of the century, following the building of a brewery here in 19th century, which led to the opening of a number of cafes. Close together in one short street, they became the meeting place of artists and writers, who spent the better part of their lives in the "Tri sesira" (Three Hats), "Dva jelena" (Two Deers), "Zlatni bokal" (Golden Chalice), "Skadarlija", and other hostelries.

A large part of Skadarska is faced with a large wall of a not-very-interesting modern building, so to make it more appealing, this large mural of old-style street images was painted over the plain surface.

Skadarska ulica - the heart of what is called Bohemian Belgrade. This street is lined with many well known restaurants (Dva Jelena, Tri Sesira) famous for their Serbian grilled meats and the traditional city bands that will serenade you (tips welcome, even expected). For the vegetarians (like me) there are also a couple of nice pizza/Italian restaurants along the way with some good meatless selections. Come in the evening to enjoy the local food and beverages. There are quite a few good beers produced in Serbia, but everyone seems to differ about which is the best. You may have to try several of them to decide for yourself. You can also enjoy Skadarska in the day when it is rather quiet and you can enjoy atmosphere tranquilly.