Stari Grad, Belgrade

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Novi Dvor is the residence of the President of the Republic of Serbia, and the building itself helps to break the ugliness of some of the other “grandiose” buildings erected by the Socialists after the Second World War. It was constructed between 1913 and 1918 as a residence for the King of Serbia (architect is Stojan Titelbah) and it was the official residence of King Aleksandr I until he was assassinated in Marseille in 1934 – after that, the White Court (Beli dvor) became the home of the King. It is separated from the Old Palace (Stari Svor) by a beautiful park. In 1974 it became the seat of the Presidency. The odd thing is that this is not a bunkered building, and you can get quite close to it and take pictures (something we in North America are not really used to since September 11).

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Ivo Andric is, ironically, one of Serbia’s best known writers. The ironic part of that statement is that Ivo Andric was in fact born in Visegrad, in Bosnia (even when at the time of his birth, it was considered to be Bosnia). Nevertheless, Andric considered himself to be a Serb and is most often referred to as a Serbian writer. As a Nobel Prize winner, he obviously has a statue dedicated to him in Belgrade and, in the tradition of many other statues dedicated to writers and poets it is a simple, life-size and life-like affair that is rather hidden from view. It is conveniently tucked in between the Presidential Palace and the Ivo Andric Museum, and next to an interesting fountain that likely relates to Andric (some of his works dwell on the rivers and bridges in Bosnia, which would make the running water beside him somewhat symbolic).

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The Galerija fresaka or Fresco Gallery is an odd little museum that highlights some of Serbia’s long tradition of fresco painting. I happened upon it just by accident, as I got lost on my way from Bayrakli Dzamija back to Knez Mihailova. The frescoes are not kept in their original environment – the building used to be a synagogue that was destroyed by the German occupiers; a plaque commemorates this fact outside the door. Inside the Gallery there are a few frescoes and religious paintings (not technically icons, but actual paintings) and description in Serbian. Serbian painting was influenced by the country’s position at the crossroads of Byzantine and Roman/Western culture, and even if the explanations are not in English, you can still see the various components of this influence in the style and form of the frescoes. It appears that there are next to no visitors here, so you can also enjoy the museum in relative quiet, broken only by the occasional conversation of the guards.

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Pionerski Park is a nice, brought green spot in a part of Belgrade that actually escaped, in large part, the hideousness of the Stanilist style reconstruction. Nevertheless, its name should give you at least a bit of a clue as to who christened it. The park has several statues that are worth checking out, including a memorial that is not at all Socialist Realist across from the Dom Narodne Skupstine on Kralja Aleksandra. This was once the official garden that was attached to the Stari Dvor, the Old Palace, which was the residence of the Obrenovic Dynasty. In 1944, however, the Communists destroyed the walls that surrounded the park and dedicated it to the pioneers of the new régime. There is not, however, a lot to draw you here by way of historical monuments, just a nice, quiet green spot on the way between Stari Grad and Slavija and Vracar.

Belgrade railway station (Železnička stanica) is 1 of the 1st railway stations in Serbia. It was built in 1885 and has been of great importance for economic and cultural development of Serbia ever since.

Visit Muzej primenjene umetnosti (The Museum of Applied Art) and admire its very big collection of embroidery, clothes,chests, famous Pirot carpets, Serbian printed books from the 18th and 19th centuries, icons from the 14th century, coins, jewelry, clocks and sundials...

Working hours:
Monday: closed
Tuesday, Wednesday and Saturday: 10-17
Thursday: 12-20
Sunday: 10-14

Entrance fee: 50 dinars

Right next to the museum you can find everything you need for painting.

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This picturesque old building's called Manak's House (Manakova kuca). Merchant Manak Mihailovic had it built in 1830.

In 1966 it was turned into a museum.

If you're interested in weaving or pottery, go no further! There are the workshops for learning old crafts and national handiworks on the ground floor of Manak's House. They also organize weaving and pottery courses, which can be a very interesting experience.

The 1st floor of Manak's House (entrance from Kraljevica Marka Street) holds the Ethnographic memorial collection of professor and painter Hristifor Crnilovic (1886-1963). Here you can see and admire folk costumes, jewellery, embroidery, textile, towels, bags, Pirot rugs (cilimi), household items and other interesting exhibits.

Working hours: 10-17; Monday-closed for visitors.

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Konak Kneginje Ljubice (the Residence of Princess Ljubica) was built in 1829-1831.

Princess Ljubica (1788-1843), the wife of Prince Miloš Obrenovic (1780-1860), used to live here with her sons, Milan (1819-1839) and Mihailo (1823-1868).

Today, this building's a museum that exhibits the original furniture made mostly in Oriental-Balkan style.

Working hours:
Monday-closed for visitors
Tuesday-Friday 10am-5pm
Saturday-Sunday 9am-4pm