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Another XIX century manor by the river shore. Hidden in vegetation, un-renovated, decrepit and locked under heavy chains, testimony of half a century distance between the building and its owners.
I could not find anything about former great families in Calafat, not when searching for the history of the town. As if they didn’t ever exist.
Written May 4, 2008
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Near the church of St. Nicholas, a shady park with hundreds year old chestnut-trees. Hidded among the trees, a modest monument to the first Romanian soldier to die during the independence war of 1877. Was he from Calafat?
Written May 4, 2008
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Quite impressive and richly ornated for such a small town, the church of St. Nicholas (aka Sfantul Nicolae) dominates the skyline of Calafat.
Rare scene inside – chairs bear names, entire families, in recognition of their role in the community and not least, because of their contributions to the church.
Note as well the force of the profane imaginary on the sacred - Jesus and Virgin Mary are king and queen of heavens.....they bear crowns, like kings and queens of earthly kingdoms.
Photography inside is allowed, but better ask in advance if you see someone around.
Updated May 4, 2008
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The ruins of an old XIX century bourgeois mannor transformed in a hotel during communist times make a scenic sight. Wander around and inside the courtyard if you find the doors open.
I just wonder what the building would become in the coming years, maybe another hotel to match the hideous modern construction by the docks.
Written May 4, 2008
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The only way is a scenic one - by ferry across the Danube.
There are regular services all along the week, but allow 1,5 – 3 hours (including waiting time for the one of the 2 ferries to arrive at docks, loading, unloading, border formalities, 20 min walk on the Bulgarian side).
On the Bulgarian side there are 2 ferry docks, one mainly for long vehicles (about 25 km from the city) and the other one for all vehicles and passengers (less than 10 km from Vidin). Go to the docks closer to the city, and you’ll be sure to cross faster. There were taxis waiting on the Bulgarian side, asking for 5 euros to Vidin (I ended up paying 4). Usually, you can share taxis with other passengers.
On the Romanian side, the docks are within walking distance from Calafat centre and the bus stop near the main city hotel.
Prices: passengers without car – 3 euro/10 lei/6 leva. A car (passengers included) is 20 euro/70 lei.
Contrary to clichés about borders, photography is allowed.
Written May 4, 2008
Train is very slow (almost 3 hours), so most passengers prefer buses. Train timetable (may 08) was as follows:
Departures from Craiova (and arrivals in Calafat) 15,34 (18,30) and 16,50 (20,18). Return, train departures from Calafat (and arrivals in Craiova): 9,45 (12,30), 11,50 (15,03), 15,15 (18,42), 18,35 (21,45). Train connections to Bucharest every hour until 21,18 (arrival 23,59).
There are several buses per day between Craiova and Calafat and they are twice faster than trains (90 minutes). However, their timetable is not very reliable, in the sense that there should be at least one in the morning, one before lunchtime and one during the afternoon.
From Bucharest, i took the 6,45 a.m. train to Craiova (arrival 9,45), jumped in a minibus to Calafat at 11,20 (arrival 13,00). Return, i took the 16,00 bus to Craiova (arrival 17,40), just in time to catch the 18,10 train to Bucharest (arrival 21,00).
Written May 4, 2008
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Some kids playing in the park got curious about me wandering around. One of them was barefoot, but seemed the leader among equals. Who i was, where i come from, how large is my villa. They would like to come to Vidin with me they said, but are too little to be allowed on the ferry. They were in Bulgaria once, last year for 1st of June, when the school organised a trip for them to Vidin, when hey ate so much chocolate and ice cream that one of them got sick. Thank you for the pictures sir, next time you come here look for us.
Written May 4, 2008
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While i was gazing inside the church, i noticed some strange music becomes louder – a mix of trumpets and drums. The music was accompanying a funeral march slowly approaching the church for the last service. How unexpected this was.
I quickly found my way out of the church and was looking for a shady spot to hide my discomfort on taking pictures in such moments. But to my amazement, a professional was filming the entire ceremony.....they’re filming not only at weddings these days, i said to myself, and opened the camera.
Written May 4, 2008
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Favorite thing: The locality (and presumably, its subjects as well) was the propriety of the Orthodox Church until 1855, when it was “emancipated”.
Emancipation meant 200.000 lei gathered in 1853 via a public a subscription (mostly rich merchants) and paid to the church of Craiova, and the signature of Barbu Stirbei on the “emancipation” act in 1855.
Updated May 4, 2008
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Favorite thing: In fact, a very recent adoption, i.e. since 2003. The Lion is the symbol of Oltenia, the historical region to which the town belongs; the cannon balls are with reference to the war of Independence of 1877 which was of great momentum for the city due to its border position. The contribution of the orthodox church to the development of Calafat is to be noted in the coat of arms: total absence, and rather a “pagan” symbol than a cross - the sign in the lower part is a “caduceus”, the wand of Mercury or Hermes, protector of merchants and thieves, and refers to the financial contributors to the emancipation of the locality, i.e. 37 traders.
Written May 4, 2008
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