It is a nice hike between Ribicev laz to Stara fuzina next to meadows or along the road a few kilometers northwards from the stone bridge upon Sava Bohinjka.
Nowsadays plenty of homes offer 'apartments' to rent for holidays and few have their 'gostilna', a place to try local food. Historically this is an ancient settlement whose first peoples inhabited area since pre Roman times and had been later local centre of manufactured iron - an activity that gave name to the place and offered expansion of the village with jobs for locals at that time. Few buildings suggest the relation to the past activites and most of them were concentrated along Mostnica river. Farming takes important place, too.
It's good point to explore some of the best preserved Slovenian Alpine countryside, which still keeps vanishing traditions, such as the architecture of 'kozolci', the hayracks - to some people an iconic image of (rural) Slovenia, but it's certainly an element of broader Alpine region.
It serves as departure point for Mostnica gorge, the gorgeous area which has been explained before in separated tip. One will also see St. Pavel church from 15th century by the edge of the village and a museum dedicated to farmers.
The church we visited is only second one in the area, but receives far less attention than famous St. John the Baptist. It's more remote, only a house or two keeps it a company but it's along the main road towards Savica - on Southern shore of the lake.
I guess it's closed for most of time, luckily we were able to take a look inside when houskeeper did some maintainance on the building. Built in 1743 together with a bell tower in the same year, following Baroque tendencies. Despite rather modest, airy and bright interior, there are three altars and statues to see, and paintings.
On the outside wall, there's large painting of. St. Cristoph from 1885.
Reason to build this church were bad seasons pesting the area, worms destroying crops in early 18th century, so the villagers had pledged to build a church, to celebrate 3 wednesdays a year and send donations to Tirol every third year. The final pledge was last time realised in 1917, and then as you know... history took different direction and nothing was as it was before.
In the entire world there are only five examples of wooden head of John the Baptist, and one happens to be in Bohinj, in the church which bears his name in a village of Ribicev laz. One who enters this shrine will obviously notice that macabre monument displayed next to the altar. Together with stone bridge upon Sava Bohinjka, those two buildings will make for the image most representative of the place and will be printed on many postcards, books and brochures as they're standing as a guard to this mythic lake by its eastern shore.
The church was first mentioned in 1464 and it is believed to be older, earlier than 13th century (the earliest structure) - and the styles were succeeding eachother from Romanesque till Baroque, interior covered with inticate patterns and frescoes whose oldest discovered were from 14th century. See them on few photos below.
Some historians believe that first convertions of local population from Paganism to Christianity happened in this place. There needs to be some more evidences to that than just rumors. The earliest people inhabited the area since 7th century BC.
You're going to eat some really wonderful local food here, especially one made of fresh cows milk - therefore forget dining at hotel or big restaurants unless you're 100 percent sure they're using local ingredients from local farmers. There can be significant difference in the quality, and I guess it's always better to support small farmers in the region, or better - in the very same village where you're on visit.
Logically speaking of eating in mountain region - the 'menus' are not that extensive and limited to few things - meat, milk, seasonal and pickled vegetable. What matters the most is the taste and texture of food, undisputedly comming from healthy animal and veggies - all those suriving on high quality ground within hars winters and short summers. Meadows are rich with medicinal plants, the air is crisp clear, so is their drinkable water... and hence the result which beats any farm product from places of more industrialized valleys and plains.
One must try at least local 'skuta', cream cheese whose taste can be 'improved' with herbs and onion. Even eating it by itself is deligthful experience!
A good soup will be nice treat after whole day walking and climbing, so try the mushroom soup or jota, both would be suitable for vegetarians and jota will be liked by those who like a bit sour foods.
Well, you've got some fish dishes here too from the lake, plus you can also try fishing yourself (see my fishing tip for more details).
Also to try would be one Bohinjska klobasa, or the Bohinj dried sausage with 'zaseka' eaten with onion and bread. I only brought one home for my family whose are used to eat dried sausages from Pannonian plain - and they loved the taste of mountainous sausage more :).
This can become a long story, but still it won't bring the taste, the smells to the screen... so when in Bohinj take a trip to some of local 'gostilnas' such as one called Mihovc (pics were taken there) in Stara Fuzina and treat yourself with real nice food.
One of most charming hidden places of Bohinj comes in form of humid, mossy landscape by Mostnica river whose wild turbulent water carved the rock deep and created mysterious 'korita' and natural water windows. Here the river color gets from green till entierly transparent and it could be most refreshing place to hang out on a hot summer day. But even if it rains, it's place worth a visit for its meditative beauty and undisturbed silence of woods. Well, disturbed only by the sound of water, of course, and few birds.
Imagine - we were there in peak summer season and we only saw a few people taking paths by Mostnica. All that within 30 or less min walk behind Stara Fuzina village.
And while I tried my best, the pics here don't do the justice to a place - but if you are willing to invest a little of your time (say 2 - 3 hours or more if you like) and hike not too difficult trek, you're going to see something really different here in the area.
Turbulent river that is! Born of Slap Savica (Savica waterfall as mentioned in earlier tip) takes only several kilometers through mountainous wilderness before it ends up in the Bohinj lake - it's the main tributary water for it. The current in this small river is so fast, cold, so clean you could drink from it (almost) and yet hardly accessible when she cuts deep through the lime stone. Given its properties, no wonder they built small hydroplant on it!
Sound tells all about it!
Only in her lower part, by the plain where she's to enter the lake, it becomes wider and calmer.
Savica isn't the largest waterfall in the state - but it's most iconic one and gets more visitors than any other fall here. It's 78 m tall, with powerful force water crushes the rocks below and transport them further along its path, until river Savica deposit the load in the Bohinj lake after several kilometers travelling through mountainous wilderness.
It is spectacular point and man has to take many steps before reaching the platform from which you can see the fall and take photos of it. No longer you can directly access to it as we did when we visited many years ago - probably safety measures.
All surrounded by steep lime rocks, with views reaching the tops of the mountain ridge above, it's no wonder the inspirational place - and here's where famous epic Krst pri Savici (baptism by Savica) happens, a work written by Slovenia's officaly greatest poet, Dr. France Prešeren.
The fall has been explored extensively, so was the cave above it within 240 meters length. See above links if you need detailed charachteristics.
As for the latest prices: 3 euro will cost you the parking fee for a car. Additional 2,5 euro per person will be collected before bridge over Savica river. It takes some 15 or 20 minutes walk from here untill viewing platform and there are mostly steps to cover the altitude distance. It's good excercise.
Step after step around Bohinj lake will bring one view better than previous - that's the charm of taking a hike around its shores. The slowlier the better. You can do a fast walk by shores which will take some 3 or 4 hours for what is little more than 11 kilometers long trail, unpaved for most time, especially at Northern side.
We needed a day! We simply don't come here so often as we would like and we stopped along few beaches for fishing and relaxing. We loved those many views and the air, so why hurry! We had a mobile cooker with us and we could cook what fishes we cought. Straight from the water, fresh. If the weather was warmer, we'd swim but now I only soaked feet. It was cold water I guess about 20 degrees or mabye less.
Bring a lot of water to the hike and decent hiking shoes, at few sections of the trail the terrain is bit rough and slippery if during rain. Between hotel Zlatorog and Ribicev laz (western and eastern side of a lake) on the Northern side of lake there are no restaurants nor cafes, so have a snack too.
Overlooking the Bohinj Lake is Mount Vogel. From the cablecar and the top of the mountain there are great views of the lake.
If you are here in winter, you can ski here. If you are here at summer time, you can hike around the mountain.
See more Mount Vogel pictues at the travelogue.
Vogel, at the altitude of 1535 m , offers extraordinary panoramic view over the Julian Alps with Triglav, th Lower Bohinj Mountains and the Bohinj basin.
You can access Vogel by the gondola from camping place Ukanc. The ride takes about 10 minutes.
Up there is a mountain cottage Merjasec which offers traditional food and have sunny terace. You have a 5% disount with a boat ticket.
In the wintertime Vogel ofers excellent skiing facilities.
We were at the lake and someone looked up and saw three folks paragliding over the lake. It was beautiful to see them against the blue sky and they glided in circles down down down onto a field.
Then awhile later there were more. Evidentally this is a place to go for paragliding.
See photos for what we saw.
The walk around Bohinj Lake is something like 9 km. You can start it from Ribcev Laz, taking the road to Ukanc and returning back tacking the trail.
Bus is available from Ribcev Laz to Ukanc [1.3 EUR; 4 km] as well is the boat [6 EUR].
Evening settles in on a perfect mid May day at Bohinjsko Jazero ( Bohinj Lake ). The snow capped Julijske Alpes ( Julian Alps ) protect the lake from the north winds. Unfortunately I did not allow enough time to climb any of these great peaks, but I intend to return some day for that purpose.
Bohinjsko Jezero is a beautiful narrow mountain lake having about 14 km. of shoreline. An excllent road with low vehicle traffic volume runs the entire length of the south and east shorelines. The road is perfect for bicycle riding. You can rent a bicycle a few hours or for the day. A well maintained foot trail encircles the entire lake, allowing you to take in every meter of the beautiful shoreline. The lake is nearly pristine, and there are many open meadows on the lake shore like the one shown in the photo. As you can see the meadows are filled with wildflowers during the springtime ( sort of like Julija whats her name in the Sound of Music ). There are also excellent camping facilities and very inexpensive and clean private accomodations. See my accomodations tip.
This is a monument to four men who were the first to climb to the top of Triglav mountain, 2864m high, on the 25th of August 1778.
The four brave men were Luka Korošec, Matija Kos, Štefan Rožič and Lovrenc Willomitzer.
The accomplishment is even greater when you know that they were not wearing any climbing equipment, and having wooden shoes.
If you are ski fan like me dont miss to visit Vogel ski resort.It is situated above the Bohinj lake and with the help of cable car you enjoy great views of the lake from above.The highest lift of the resort is at 1800m and the total piste length is 36km.When I was there the snow quality was better than Granjska Gora.