Bovec Things to Do

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With only one hairpin to go on the south side of Vršic Pass - between 49 and 50 - there is a turnoff for Koca pri izviru soca. A short drive brings you to a small parking lot - come early in the day if you can - by the mountain hut. The walk up to the source of the šoca is about 20 minutes with the last stretch being over aided sections complete with iron pegs and cables with some exposure. Later in the day the aided section of the trail may slow you down as people unused to such paths tend to slow up considerably as they fingers make death grasps onto the iron aids. If it is wet, it is not a great idea to clamber up here. The water level at the source determines what you will see. I was here during a low period late in the summer. The water came out of rocks set in a deep ravine. The ravine was dry further up until you came to the cave from which the water was emanating. Here was a pool of the deepest turquoise

There is a memorial to the US 10th Mountain Division in the main square here in Bovec which remembers a post-WWII ski competition up on the slopes of the nearby Mangart. Having skied on the slopes in Colorado where the 10th Mountain Division had started from, it was fascinating to find myself where those men had ended their European tours while occupying the upper reaches of the Soèa and that they were fondly remembered by the locals here.

A pleasant walk through the western part of the Bovec basin will take you past this little waterfall just downstream from the little stream’s – Glijuna – source. Like many streams in the area, the Glijuna pops out as a ready-made stream. The pool at the base of the waterfall is perfect for sitting and contemplating. Turquoise waters serve as a home for foot-long trout. The walk is about 45 miles west of Bovec.

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This is one of the most impressive waterfalls in the whole country. The water comes out of the limestone rocks of the Kanin massif and bubbles forth just above the waterfall. The waterfall drops some 106 meters and, of course, is more spectacular in late spring or after a course of heavy rain. There are two paths which you can take for a closer look than the road provides. The main path takes off from the bridge up the cliffs rising above the south bank. This is a rather steep trail that will have you sweating up to a viewpoint in about 40 minutes of climbing. There is a small car park by the Hotel Bok about 50 meters south of the bridge from which you can venture out. A smaller car park exists on the north side of the bridge. The trail here will get you all the way to the spring above the falls but this is a trail rated as “very difficult” which is Slovene means ‘good luck’.

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As you turn towards Vršiè Pass coming out of Bovec, a military cemetery is found on your right-hand side. Grave markers are only present for a quarter of the graves. Italian soldiers were removed after the war to the ossuary in nearby Kobarid. Many graves are unmarked and even those noted with a gravestone have no name.

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The views from atop the Mala Movjstroka are really special. The "easy" way up is from Vršiè Pass up the south east ridge, but between the wars this route was not an option for Slovenes as that ridge lay within Italy. In order to still get those views, Slovene mountaineers established this protected route up the north side of the mountain. You gain the start by marching up a massive scree field lying at the bottom of the north face. Then you put on your helmet and get out your self-belay gear for this hard and very expose route. See you at the top. I am going the other way!

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Wow! For once a Slovene trail with no iron pegs - maybe there was one? - or cables or with a route that doesn't go straight up. The first thirty minutes don't count as you move up from Vršiè Pass - 3 euro to park or use the summer bus up from Kranjska Gora - and you gain the Vratica pass at 1799 meters. From this small pass, take the path to the right dropping down slightly onto a pretty forested balcony with you immediate goal, the little peak of Slemenovica špikova straight ahead. On the west side of the balcony, follow an unmarked but obvious trail rising up to the right. In true Slovene fashion, the trail gains you elevation now, but it is only a short section reaching into the pretty meadows of Sleme in no time whatsoever. Keep going until you reach the top of the little peak and the views open up in all directions. Way below is the Tamar Valley, Jalovec raising its mighty head at one end and the ski jumps of Planica are at the other. Look behind you and the grand north wall of the Mojvstroka towers. Northwards, mountains rise far away in southern Austria. The trail has been described as maybe one of the best in Slovenia - it certainly gives you maximum bang for your efforts. Weekends might not be the best time if you are looking for some solitude.

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From the top of Mala Mojvstroka you have a wonderful view. The Špik-Škrlatica-Prisank massif is close at hand to the east; Triglav dominates the southeast, then Kanajavec; the Trenta veers deeply away to the south; Krn is on the horizon next; Bavški Grintavec is closer at hand on the southwest. You can just make out Jalovec hiding behind the nearby Veliki Mojvstoka while Mangart towers just west of the Ponca-Venian ridge making up the west wall of the Tamar valley. To the north and west are the Dolomites, the Gross Glöckner and innumerable ridges in southern Austria. Far below is Slemenovica špikova, the little peak I had enjoyed in the morning. As you sit here admiring the view people come up from the north side as they have successfully clambered up the difficult Hanzova Pot which is a protected route leading up the north face of Mojvstroka from Sleme below.

To get up here the normal way, you start from Vršiè Pass - 3 euro to park - and clamber up a steep path to gain an obvious notch on the Grebenec - the ridge coming off the east side of Mojvstroka. Then you scamper up the Grebenec through loose scree - trekking poles are very helpful both in up and down directions. The way takes about two hours gaining some 742 meters of elevation. You will not be alone up there.