Hrastovlje
by CCW
This little church was one of the highlights of my trip: it's an unassuming stone building surrounded by formidable-looking walls, but the interior is completely covered with spectacular 15th-century frescoes. Because they were whitewashed over for several centuries, the colors are fresh and the details are well-preserved. The themes are mostly the usual medieval fare (the creation, the fall of Adam and Eve, the crucifixion, etc.), but the Three Kings panel includes scenes from daily life, such as fishing and farming. The most famous panel is the Dance of Death; while the theme isn't nearly as radical or as rare as the P.R. makes it out to be, it's well done and impressive.A woman in the village keeps the key to the church, and if she's not on the premises you have to go look for her, but the house is well signposted. She'll play you a taped guide to the frescoes, and walk around the...