Córdoba Off The Beaten Path

The Guadalquivir, more than a river, is a reference in Spanish culture, history and poetry. Its peaceful passage by the historical Cordoba, reminds the Moorish times, well preserved in most artifacts used to retain or extract the water.

To understand all my feelings you need to:

1 - Learn Portuguese
2 - Find a record of João Villaret
3 - Listen to him asking:

"...
Antonio Torres Heredia.
Camborio de dura crin,
moreno de verde luna,
voz de clavel varonil:
¿Quién te ha quitado la vida
cerca del Guadalquivir?
..."
From "La muerte de Antonito el Camborio", by Federico Garcia Lorca.

(IF you did it... good! You may keep on listening to the magic Villaret. If you didn't, at least, try to read Lorca... in any language!)

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On the foothills of the Morena Sierra, only 8 kilometres outside of the city of Cordoba you can find the remains of what once was one of the most beautiful cities in the world and also the capital of al-Andalus: the Madinat al-Zahra (or in English also referred to as Medina Azahara).

Now it seems a forgotten place, which only attracted a handful of visitors during our visit on this gorgeous sunny afternoon in March 2008. The number of archaeologists, working constantly to discover more and more of this lost city, easily outnumbered the number of visitors. Only 10%, approx 112 hectares, of this once Islamic city in Southern Spain has been excavated and restored so far and one can only imagine what lost splendour is still hidden underneath the ground.

Madinat al-Zahra dates back to the 10th century, built by Abd ar-Rahman III, the Caliph of Córdoba. Its heydays were only short-lived as the city only flourished for approximately 80 years. The building started around 940, and between 1010 and 1013 its period of glory came to an abrupt end. A civil war put an end to the Ummayad Caliphate and the city was plundered and abandoned. Lots of it remains were used to build other constructions. But despite all that, walking through these 'newly' discovered and restored piles of stones, walls and arches, one can still imagine what this place must have been like in the 10th century. If you are in Andalucía, and especially if you are in the area of Cordoba, a visit to Madinat al-Zahra is something you shouldn't miss. Especially if you have an interest in history, archaeology and/or architecture you will without a doubt be fascinated by Madinat al-Zahra.

Opening hours:
16 September to 30 April:
Tuesday-Saturday: 10.00 to 18.30.

1 May to 15 September:
Tuesday-Saturday: 10.00 to 20.30, Sundays: 10.00 to 14.00.

During public holidays: 10.00 to 14.00

Closed on Mondays and on the 1st and 6th January, 1st of May, 24th, 25th and 31st of December.

Admittance:
EU citizens with proof of nationality: free (although no one asked or checked during our visit). Other nationalities: €1.50.

You can read more about this fascinating archaeological site on my Medina Azahàra Page

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Walking around Cordoba is quite a nice experience. THe streets are very narrow and made of stones - transports you back in time. However, watch out for the cars that drive like crazy. Walking around at night the street were very quiet and poetic. In the day light, you are bound to stumble upon some very interesting things. So take some time too cool from from other all famous destinations.

In 1997, Cordoba celebrated the 50th anniversary of the death of this historic bullfighter. A year filled with official ceremonies with expositions (from paintings to philately), prizes, contests (from news coverage to the plastic arts), conventions (from bullfighting surgery to Andalusian fashion and design), Graphic expositions (from the Ravel’s Opera Carmen to the motion pictures), conferences and panel discussions about the bullfighting world, bullfighting festivals at the bullfighting arena of the "Caliphs" and an array of many other activities such as championships of thorough bred horses, introduction and tasting of wines, and many other diverse acts.

Just 8 km of Cordoba around 100 years ago, was discovered the city of Medina Azahara, one of the largest city of that times. Still is on restoration, and still lots to discover under the hill.

After 75 years it was destroyed by the Bereberes, many works were stolen and taken to Cordoba palaces,



Not sure if you can go by public transport, but if you have your own car, it deserves 100% a visit.

Palacio de Linares, the entrance to the gardens, a little picnic in a beautiful surrounding
the altitude of 1300m makes Linares special, the heat of the lower regions has not arrived here. I recommend a stroll along the River Linares just outside the city

Linares..ca.70km from Cordoba on the way to Madrid former Gardens of the Palacio de Linares on around 1300 altitude, they have snow in Linares, the roadtrip is quite special.
But the Town is best known for it's famous Son..Andres Segovia..the great spanish Guitar player and Composer.He is born in Linares and rest here.

Zuheros
Little village with castle on a mountain. Try to stay at the Zahayra hotel. They will assist you by planning a hike-route.
In front of the village is the tourist-office. They are very helpfull, have lots of information and sell local products.
We made a hike-toer around the village, along the (former) river. We were confronted by a flock of sheep, walking over the road. Very nice tour. At the end you can you look down on the village. Great view.
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