The Sacromonte Scene. Flamenco and more!
If you want to see an authentic flamenco show during your stay in Andalucia this is the place to go. Remember Flamenco is really a gypsy art form and here in Sacromonte is the place where all the gypsies live. So if you want to hear men playing Flamenco and singing or the women in the traditional flamenco dresses dancing come here! Sacromonte is full of places to choose from all along the main Road into Sacromonte. You are spoilt for choice. There are also Flamenco guitar and dancing lessons available in the area if you fancy giving it a try yourself! Try the School on Venta de Gallo 5.
The gypsies came to Andalucia in the 15th century and flamenco was well on its way as an art form by the late 18th century.
The guitar was invented in Andalucia which was influenced by the Arabic 5 string lute. In the 1790’s a sixth string was added allegedly by a guitar maker from Cádiz called Pagés.
Other Flamenco centres in Spain are: Sevilla, Jerez and Cádiz.
If you have never heard Flamenco music before it is very earthy, emotional and powerful. You either hate it, respect it or love it! Anyway, if you are in the south you should try and see a show or go to a peña. Of course if you go to any feria (see my Feria tip on my Spain page) you’ll hear Sevillana folk music which is very similar and see all the Spaniards dressed in gypsy dresses dancing.
Tarantos: Camino de Sacromonte 9 (958 22 45 25 or 958 22 24 92)Related to:
- Arts and Culture
Pedro Antonio del Alarcon
This street is littered with good bars. Also check out the street leading off of it too. You can successfully walk down this street going from one bar to another on a pub crawl. I’m sure you’d be wasted by the time you got to the other end of this long road.
If you fancy a drink and some good free tapas for a great price try Dniepper almost at the start of the road coming from Recogidas. Even though it has a Ukrainian name it is actually Argentinean; serving great Argentine tapas. The owner is Argentinean (from Rosario) and so are all the rest of the staff. Although it looks small when you enter there is an upstairs and a downstairs too. This would be a great place to start the night before heading to some more lively bars.Related to:
Liberia: Live Music
I've just come back from a great jazz and blues concert in the bar Liberia. Although it is a small bar with a very annoying pilar, it has a great atmosphere (and the concert was very good too). I paid 3 euros to enter, but then I got a free drink (a VERY strong rum and coke even for Spain).
It also has a pool table which is uncommon in Andalucia.
A big thumbs up.
There seemed to be a lot o foreign students there. Though the crowd was off all ages.
Dress Code: Anything you like!Related to:
Estrella: Anything but Spanish pop...
This is a great little popular bar that plays anything from the Rolling stones to punk, Beck or Moby.
It has a crowd of all different ages and types. Maybe from the outside you wouldn’t think to enter as there are no windows and it has NOT got a large neon side above the entrance, but believe me it's worth going in. It can get very busy from Thursday and all through the weekend, but it's SO good to listen to something else other than cheesy pop (especially Spanish cheesy pop)
Dress Code: ANYTHING GOES!!!!Related to:
La Gran Taverna: Lively bar with FREE tapas, of course
Granada is famous for its custom of giving free snacks with your drinks. La Gran Taverna is no exception. It is a small, lively bar, full of character facing the Plaza Nueva. It was extremely popular, with a pleasant mixture of tourists, locals and shoppers. There was a tremendous range of clients, from toddlers to seniors. On the Saturday night it was especially lively, with an impromptu group of four or five guitar players singing at the bar.
Each time we visited (it was at the corner of our street, a good place to meet up) we were given a FREE plate of bread, spanish ham and lots of green olives to nibble with our drinks.
At one point a companion spilt his wine all over the bar - the bartender cleaned it up (without even a scowl) and promptly refilled the wine glass, at no extra charge!!
They also did a good line in 'fino', which is a dry sherry.
Dress Code: No dress code but generally people were well presented.Related to:
- Wine Tasting
- Beer Tasting
- Budget Travel
C/ Elvira, Paseo de los Tristes,Carrera del Darro
These two roads which both lead to Plaza Nueva from different directions have some great bars. Simply walk along them until you see one that suits your taste. I'm sure there is something for everyone.
My favourite is on Carerra del Darro 12 (El Rincon de San Pedro), it is on the right hand side heading from Plaza Nueva. It is painted blue inside and is covered in candles which make it look very Gothic.Related to:
Paprika: Somewhere to start the night on Calle Elvira...
This is a lovely little warm and friendly sit down bar. The chairs are all cushioned too which makes it a great place to relax on a quite night or to start the night. Beware as it is a small, popular place, you might not find a seat. They serve tapas or to my delight I noticed that they serve A SUNDAY ROAST!!!!!! So this Sunday I'm trotting off down there to sample some! It better be good! I'll tell you my verdict (though I do have high standards).
??: Tapas bar
There is a tapas bar right next to Plaza nueva. You go down this little street and order a drink. With each drink you get a free tapa (max is 3 tapas). With each of the drinks the tapas get better. Seriously, you can't beat this.
Dress Code: casual
Cafe au Lait: Flamenco 'au lait'
Cafe au Lait has FREE flamenco every night (except Wednesday, I think). That must mean Catarina, the young dancer, must be one of the fittest people in Andalucia!! They have two performances per night, at 7:30 and 9:30pm. I can't understand why there were so few people watching (well, it was Sunday night I suppose). We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, there was no catch, the guitar playing and dancing was superb.
Carlos, the guitar player was a joy to watch and to listen to. Extremely skillful. Catarina started dancing wearing ballet shoes, then changed her skirt and shoes mid-dance, which was unusual. Catarina was far too sweet to look like the angry flamenco women I have seen in the past, but certainly earned the whole two euros I put into her collection tin ;-)
Apparently Cafe au Lait do a good breakfast, but I cannot confirm this rumour. Spanish, English, French and Norwegian spoken!!
Dress Code: Very casual. Carlos was dressed like he was ready to go out for a jog. And Catarina looked like she had raided by neice's dressing-up box. And everyone else there was equally casually dressed.Related to:
- Arts and Culture
Tortuga, Calle Elvira
This is a great, but small bar on Calle Elvira. It is almost impossible to find a seat, but there is usually plenty of room to stand at the bar. It's got a great atmosphere and some really interesting wall decorations including a fake American 1 dollar deception bill featuring Bush and a sign for Mc Donald’s which reads: 'Come mierda por 1 euro'.
You get a free Tapa with your drink which is really good quality. I sampled their Rioja and found it to be most satisfactory (excuse me if I make some typing errors I'm still feeling most satisfied from the rioja)!
Dress Code: Anything which is not Pijo.
Hannigan and Sons: Bar great for Students and Foreigners alike
Great Irish pub off of Plaza Nueva in the Cathedral district. Here you can meet up with friends you've made in Granada, ones you've traveled with, or make new ones. A classic place to for exchange students and local 20 to 30 somethings to get together for a pint, you will never be short of interesting people to talk to.
Dress Code: Casual. It's a student and backpacker place.
Antiguana, Calle Elvira
This bar is decked out with medieval weapons and shields and is made entirely from wood giving it a really warm feel. There is also a TV where you can watch the football or MTV.
They serve cocktails and mojitos along with all the normal drinks and, of course, you get a free plate of tapas(food) with every drink!
Plaza Nueva: Tapastastic
As mentioned before tapas in town are free. This used to be a tradition in most Spanish towns and villages but mostly died out - but not in Granada. While this might mean a couple of slices of tortilla and some olives if you go to some of the bars off Plaza Nueva the portions are superb. For the price of a beer (about 1 Euro) you get mini-hamburgers, kebabs or other treats with chips and salad. Might tasty they are too. From our experience it seemed that each time you ordered another beer the tapas got better as well. We only managed 3 before we were full though.
Just up from the Placa there is a narrow road with Arab coffee shops offering exotic tobacco smokes - try the apple tobacco.
Lots of pubs till 5.00 am: Calle Elviria
Normally they are outside the street offering you free shots, and also every time we asked for a drink we got a free shot lol (at the end we got the speciality of the house lol, but I do not remember what it was hehehehe)
Kanela is a nice new bar just past the Arco de Triunfo heading from Calle Elvira.
It is quite small but well decorated. You can drink all the usual types of drinks as well as some great cocktails. Tapas is also served with the food.
It is a great place to visit at the weekend or during the week when it is quieter.
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