So far on this day, if we had been playing baseball we would be batting close to zero if we compared actual results achieved to what had been intended! Falling back on my DK Eyewitness Travel Guide, I suggested we try part of the 90-minute walk around old Sevilla that they suggested.
Because of our location, we would jump aboard half-way through and go in the reverse direction if we crossed the river at Torre del Oro, and then walked up the far shore about half-way to the next bridge downstream (Puente de Isabel II). This would take us past the Torre for a view of both it and the city from across the river before we turned away from the river to sample Sevilla's oldest church (Iglesia Santa Ana built in the 1200s) before returning to the main part of Sevilla again through a very old 'barrio'.
It sounded like a good idea, but after crossing to the far side, we found the shore lined with 'modern' glass & steel restaurants built for the masses and with little or no character. When we reached the area where we should detour further inland we found that the streets were torn up due to construction work taking place in this 'off-peak' time of the year - so did not even bother. Deciding to cut our losses, we looked up ahead to Puente del Isabel II where we would cross back to the main part of Sevilla. This had turned into another disaster, but at least we found a nice riverfront restaurant for lunch once we made the return crossing! The cold beer tasted good, as I fell back on my motto of "Don't sweat the small stuff"!
Start at the Torre del Oro and walk along the Paseo Christobal Colon to Puente Isabel II.
This is a very nice walk, especially when you are accompanied by the sun. It's not very crowdy and you can sit down on the banks looking the tourist- and other boats sailing by.
In the late evening, do the walk on the opposite side of the river, in the Triana district. This way, you have splendid sunset-views of the Torre del Oro and the centre of Sevilla.
Another Sevillan bridge is "Puente de San Telmo"; it is one of the oldest bridges, and the one wich has more traffic, because is the most direct way to go from downtown to Triana or other districts. It is also the closest one to Torre del Oro.
Otro puente sevillano es el Puente de San Telmo, un de los más antiguos y uno de los más transidados, dado que es la vía más directa para ir desde el centro hacia Triana u otros barrios. Es también el más próximo a la Torre del Oro.
Here you can see a different perspective of "Puente de Isabel II" (also known as "Puente de Triana"): from below. At the riverbank, close to this bridge, there is a small park, where you can have a Spaniard nap under a tree or like I did, have a different view of Sevilla.
Aquí pueden ver una perspectiva diferente del "Puente de Isabel II" (conocido también como "Puente de Triana"): desde abajo. A orillas del río, cerca de este puente, hay un parquecito en donde pueden dormir la siesta española bajo un árbol, o como hice yo, disfrutar una vista diferente de la ciudad.
Take a break from the heat of the narrow streets of Santa Cruz and take to the river. The boat takes you along the Guadalquivir, turns around and comes back again. During the trip an audio commentary points out sights such as the Triana district on the west bank and the structures created for the '92 Expo but the main enjoyment comes from just gliding along the river. On our particular boat we had a trio of Russian football fans left over from the previous night's UEFA cup match for company. Despite the fact that Sevilla won the match against St.Petersburg comfortably they seemed in good spirits and the warm, sunny weather must have been some compensation for them.
Boats leave from the quay near the Torre del Oro roughly every half hour (but not precisely - this is Spain!) and the cost is 15 euro.
The Guadalquivir River or the El Rio Guadalquivir was originally name Betis by the Romans and then renamed wadi ak-kabir (Great River or Guadalquivir) by the Arabs. It separates the Triana district to the old town of Seville. Running for 657 kms, it is Spain’s 5th longest river. It is also the country’s only navigable river.
This is the lovely walk which stretches along the riverfront running parallel to the Paseo de Cristobal Colon. The popular promenade is lined with many types of trees such as jacarandas, oleanders, and palms providing shade to the benches placed underneath them.
This part of the city used to be the old dock area The new boardwalk was created as part of the Exposition 92 celebrations.
The riverwalk is used for those out for a leisurely walk as well as those with more energy for jogging and cycling. The walk is divided up into 3 tiers which run parallel and passes under an extended arch of the Puente Isabel II Bridge. Several monuments and memorials are contained along this route such as Carmen and Curro Romero.
With such a fine promenade as the Paseo de Cristobal Colon, it is not surprising that Sevillanos gravitate to it when time and weather permit. We drove by it stopping only as traffic required. 20 years previously we walked along it daily trying to feel the temper of the people. Both times it was just before the Semana Santa, but this time the April Feria was to follow as well. Everyone was geared up for a long holiday! (except for the crew on the river who were getting ready for a big race in England). Several main sights are on the Paseo and so there is a lot to photograph. It must be a hard place to walk when the sun is out in the summer (over100F) worse than the French Quarter in New Orleans at that time! The Spaniards have placed a lock on the Guadalquivir below the city such that the river is a deep water port and Sevilla thus can continue its place as a port (again like New Orleans) 50+ miles from the Atlantic.The Paeo de las Dielicias extends the walk southward to the Parque Maria Luisa passing the Palacio San Telmo with a fine Baroque facade.
Down one end of the boardwalk are two imposing steel structures “Hommage to Tolerance” which was created by the Spanish sculptor Eduardo Chillida in 1992. He was born in 1924 and has created large pieces of work all around the world. He died in 2002.
"Guadalquivir so green
of ancient oil..."
Guadalquivir is the river that goes through Sevilla, and it is absolutely beautiful.
"Guadalquivir tan verde
de aceite antiguo..."
Guadalquivir, el río que atraviesa Sevilla, es absolutamente espectacular.
The riverside is very pretty with a lovely promenade and benches under some decorative trees along on it. It was blazing hot that day I was there. The locals had also opted for a shade (wise move!).
We passed the Bull fight arena (Plaza de Toros de la Maesranza) and got to the Torre del Oro which houses a maritime museum. After that I really had to find some place to go indoors, so we decided to head to Giralda.
The riverside area is very interesting, but maybe the section that goes from Puente de Triana (Triana's Bridge) to Puente de San Telmo, is the one with the best views! You will find people strolling with their kids; people exercising; and couples displaying some affection too! (hey, this is Spain, we dont think PDA is such a big deal!)
This is a Historic spot, since it held the river port for the trade to/from America. The Port of Sevilla held the monopoly of the trade with America for about 200 years, after it was passed to Cadiz. It is said that any person wishing to make it to Spanish America had to be in the waiting list to embark for about a year!
It is really nice to sit by the river and maybe read something, have a snack, or simply enjoy the view. You can walk along the beautiful river (which looks sort of green here in Seville, and more brownish in Córdoba). There are people offering boat tours for tourists if you're interested in that.
This is the Alamillo bridge which is probably one of the most striking modern bridges in the whole of Europe. It stands on the Western side of Seville and was constructed as part of the Expo 92 fair.
* Look out for it when you fly over the city on your arrival into Seville airport.