San Sebastián Things to Do

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The Teatro Victoria Eugenia forms a sort of Belle Époque – Neo-Renaissance block in the centre of Donostia together with the Hotel Maria Cristina. In fact, the two buildings were built at the same time and both inaugurated in 1912. They both retain their original functions. The theatre was a very important centre for Spanish drama throughout its history and has also played a fairly important role in global cinema, hosting the San Sebastian International Film Festival. The fact that San Sebastian was once a summer vacation spot reserved exclusively for the rich and famous of Europe and North America has helped to attract some of the biggest names in entertainment and theatre to the Victoria Eugenia. Indeed, Hitchcock’s Vertigo was premiered here at the Film Festival. The theatre underwent considerable – and no less controversial – renovations during the period 2001 to 2007. Some say that its interior has been modify far too much from the original design, although the most profound changes have been in materials and colouring rather than changes to the layout. The theatre is still an important location for cinephiles and receives its fair share of media attention every year, when the globe’s top movie starts converge on San Sebastian for the Film Festival.

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The Kursaal is a cultural centre and exhibition space across from the Alde Zaharra. There are Kursaals in various European cities, but to be honest I am not entirely sure whether it is a foundation or some other sort of eminence grise which gives rise to these sorts of installations. The one in San Sebastian dominates its side of the Urumea, across from the Maria Cristina. When I was in Donostia, I visited a great exhibition of modern Latin American artwork sponsored by the Bolivarian Government of Venezuela (hmm, no political motivation behind this specific exhibit, was there?). It was free, which I thought would mean it had 4 mediocre paintings, but in fact the exhibition space is quite large, and the exhibit contained many interesting paintings, including a Frieda Kahlo and a Diego Rivera that was not a mural. I believe they have rotating exhibits that are generally free, in addition to musical performances and other sorts of shows. There are also a few shops where you can buy souvenirs and surf gear on the main floor.

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La Catedral del Buen Pastor is a towering neo-Gothic Cathedral in the Ensanche that serves as the seat of the diocese of San Sebastian. It was inaugurated in 1897 and the story goes that the architect responsible for the Cathedral’s design was inspired by the Cologne Cathedral – which is likely why this building is not only neo-Gothic by also shows signs of Late Gothic style. Its bell-tower is quite high – 75 metres to be exact – which is what allows it to be a landmark for the surrounding area. The cathedral has rather short opening hours, so make sure that you check them before heading out to see it. The fact that it is in the Ensanche means that it is fairly far from the other main attractions of the city, so it’s not like you can do a few more things on your list and then easily hop back to see the Cathedral.

The Museo San Telmo was closed for renovations when I was visiting San Sebastian, but luckily I visited it with my father in 1998, when it was still open and featured a neat exhibition on the Pyrenees (flora and fauna, indigenous cultures, geology and history). It is housed in an old convent dating from the 16th century not far from the sea and close to the Cathedral. As it was finished in the 1560s, the building features a transition between the Gothic and Renaissance styles. The collection includes both Fine Arts pieces as well as pieces donated by the Ethnographic Society of the Basque Country, which is why it can sometimes seem like the Museum has a slightly schizophrenic approach to special exhibits. The fine arts section generally concentrates on 19th and 20th century Basque painting, although there are some other pieces such as Goya’s El Cristo. The ethnographic section also includes pieces from Egypt and Pre-Colombian Peru, in addition to its selection of Basque artifacts.

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The Aquarium is considered to be part of the Monte Urgull complex, although it is pretty much at sea level along the Paseo Nuevo. I didn’t go into the Aquarium – it’s not that I don’t find aquariums interesting, I’m just cheap and didn’t want to pay 10 euro. From what I read, the Aquarium has an impressive fish walkway, where you walk through a glass enclosed space surrounded by the various sea creatures. There are also various historical exhibits included in the set up.

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Spain and the United Kingdom have a long history of mutual aid, despite the ravages of mass tourism and the long-standing dispute over the status of Gibraltar. In fact, the rise of Revolutionary France and its threat to the established order of hereditary monarchies and quasi-theocracies pushed the crowns of England, Spain and Portugal into greater cooperation than ever before. When Napoleon invaded the Iberian Peninsula and established his own puppet governments in Spain and Portugal, the British came to the aid of the absolute monarchies and launched successful invasions along the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. Together with Iberian armies and guerrillas, they pushed out Napoleon’s army and restored, in Spain at least, a brutal and repressive monarchy (the Portuguese underwent far more profound political changes, not least because of Brazil’s declaration of independence). The result is that all throughout coastal cities in the Iberian Peninsula there are memorials and cemeteries for the British soldiers who lost their lives in the name of Spanish and Portuguese independence. In Donostia, the British cemetery lies on Monte Urgull, on the slope that faces the sea. It is clearly marked, but unfortunately not well maintained, so seeing the graves and the massive memorial can be quite tricky. The cemetery was opened to the public in 1924, although it dates from 1813. The official guides lead one to believe that this is a general military cemetery, but I found only graves belonging to British soldiers who died in the battle of 1813.

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The Sagrado Corazón is the name of the giant statue of Jesus that adorns the top of Mount Urgull. It was erected in 1950, long after the Castillo de la Mota was built. The statue is by no means a rival in size to the one in Rio de Janeiro or even in Lisbon, but it does somehow provide a bit of perspective on the height from which you look down on the city. You have to go through the largest chapel in the Castillo de la Mota in order to reach the observation deck just below the statue, and from there you can walk up to the base. It appeared that there was actually another chapel at Jesus’ feet, but it wasn’t open and I got the impression that it was only used for specific special occasions. Nevertheless, whatever your views on religious symbols in public, visiting the Sagrado Corazón is a must. The views onto Santa Klarako Uharte (the small island at the mouth of La Concha), the sea and the beach are breathtaking and will undoubtedly provide you with those one or two photographs you proudly display to anyone asking you about your trip to Donostia.

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Castillo de la Santa Cruz de la Mota is the main military installation on Urgull and thus it makes sense that it is at the highest point on the mountain. It also has the best and easiest access of all the military installations, so you should at least try to make it up to this Castle installed in the 12th century by the King of Navarre. There are three chapels (just to be on the safe side) some of which are open to the public. Actually, if I remember correctly, only the largest one is open to the public as it provides access to the Sagrado Corazón – the large statue of Jesus. The Castillo still has its canons, which are always a treat for kids, and it houses the city’s museum. Usually, these types of museums are not exactly interesting, and I know that I often rail against them and ethnographic museums in general in other tips. The museum of the city of San Sebastian, however, is fairly interesting, as it is big on displays and short on minute historical detail. There are various discussions of the different names the city has had and its important place in the various sea battles and invasions. The biggest draw to the Castillo de la Mota, however, is undoubtedly the view on both the bay and the sea. Go up to the statue of Christ to get the best views and make sure that your camera battery is fully charged – the water looks this blue only from this height!