Cartagena Things to Do

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Cartagena's bullring must have been something in the not too distant past. It was only built a century ago...but is now just a shell of its former self. Maybe bullfighting is no longer acceptable in Cartagena, so the bullring no longer operates as one, and stands empty. However, there are signs that it may be restored soon, as scaffolding covers the entrance.

Opposite is another grand building, the former Naval Hospital, now a medical school. What could be an attractive square is a rubbly car park at present...but in a couple of years, who knows.

Tucked behind the bullring is an odd little structure, looking a bit like a Muslim turbe (a tomb-type building) with a domes roof. Apparently it stands on the site of a Roman amphitheatre, but there is no mention of what it might be. Anyone know?

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From the plaza, I followed the walls until I came to a small hill. I thought I might get a good view of Cartagena from the top, but the litter and a few shady characters loitering on the slopes put me off, so I continues until the walls reappeared, in a slightly run-down area. A dark yellow church made me think I was possibly in the other Cartagena across the Atlantic, but a Roman gate next door soon stamped that thought out.

The walls in this part pre-date the Romans...they were built by the original Carthaginians under the orders of Hannibal's son or nephew (or some relative anyway), and if you are interested in that sort of thing, there is an "Interpretation Centre" set into the walls a bit further on. The most impressive section of wall forms part of a park, directly opposite the bus station, while on the inside of the walls, the Cerro Despenaperros has a badly preserved tower trying not to crumble down the slopes.

Looking east, you can't fail to notice what looks like a castle on a hilltop above what might be quite an interesting residential area. I've no idea what this is, as it isn't marked on any maps, but it is obviously very old and was important at some point. The Cartagena tourist bosses obviously don't think it is worthy of restoration...and as it is quite a distance from the centre of town, I decided against investigating.

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Leaving my family on Calle Mayor, I blundered through some of the backstreets behind Molinete Hill and emerged by accident in Plaza Juan XXIII, an open space with some unusual sculptures around a pool with koi carp. Part of the park bordered the walls, which have become a feature...restored and incorporated into a posh looking restaurant. Look out for the tiny figure climbing up the wall with a look of menace on his face, about to infiltrate the restaurant and maul a few posh diners. The walls end in a series of archways under which lurks a shady cafe.

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Calle Mayor, the main street of Cartagena, is narrow and pedestrian and filled with restaurants and cafes. Don't forget to look up...some of the buildings are quite ecclectic and colourful. My favourite was this deep red and pink one, now the Cafe de Indias...unfortunately all the best tables were gone, and anyway there was some construction work going on just next door, so we carried on to the Cafe di Roma up the road for a streetside coffee.

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As I mentioned before, Cartagena is a city of street art, and Plaza del Ayuntamiento has plenty, from the severed heads lying in the grass by the old town walls to the life size metal postman dragging his heavy sack towards Calle Mayor. On the walls, look out for the mosaic and a tiled display of Cartagena's history. Other Cartagena characters in steel sit on benches and contemplate the humans walking past....I did take photos of these sitting alongside my brother, but can't find them at the moment.

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Cartagena has a very impressive Ayuntamiento (town hall)...I'm not sure what style of architecture this is, but it is very ornate and striking. It now houses a tourist information office, although it was shut on that day, so I can't tell you if the interior matches the exterior. What i didn't notice straight away was the mural on one of the sides...close up, it tends to blend in with the colours of the building, but from afar you can easily make out the profile of an old man's face. I'm assuming this has something to do with the Civil War Bunker museum, which has a series of similar black and white photos of elderly faces on its walls. From up the hill behind the Roman theatre, you also notice these photos on other buildings around the city.

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Just in front of the town hall, a monument to soldiers of the Spanish army who fought in Cuba stands in a shady plaza, palm trees on all sides. It was not a very busy little square...in fact the only other people in there were old men asleep on the benches.

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Cartagena is a city of street art...something it had in common with Vigo, another underrated city our cruise stopped at. If this is an initiative to make cities more attractive, I think it is working. Anyway, at the end of the waterfront, you are suddenly confronted by the tailfin of a whale waving at you from the water...it looks quite realistic from a distance. From here you also get a good view of Cartagena's naval base, with steep mountains beyond.