Uman' Off The Beaten Path
Uman is place where Nachman's of Breslov, the founder and spiritual leader of the Breslov Hasidic dynasty, is burried. so every year, for Rosh Hashana, Chanuka and Shavuot thousands of Husidim all over the world travel to Uman to pray at Rebbe Nachman's grave.
the pilgrimage was halted in 1917 but it was continued clandestinely till 1989, and since 1989 it officially renewed.
the biggest pilgrimage is the Rosh Hashana kibbutz. most of pilgrims are men and boys (I have seen may be 5 women at most). the area around the grave where they settle are guarded by Ukrainian militia, but you still can pass if you show respect to very believes. I would not recommend for women to go their during that time unless they have affiliation with some international organisations. I felt like I was under the magnifying glass all the time. and while younger generation was more tolerant, the older one was not that much. though overall atmosphere was very friendly and jubilant. there is no problem to visit Rabbi Nachman's grave in any other time.Related to:
- Religious Travel
- Arts and Culture
Favorite thing: All I know about Uman is the bus stop where the main line coaches between Kiev & 0dessa park for the scheduled half time break in the journey. Uman is an overlooked city by international travellers, because it lies halfway between these 2 major travel centres, with no obvious reason to stop there for its own sake. This is rather a shame, because I've become rather enchanted by Uman, albeit having only seen the place after dark, while in transit on the 6 hour drag between the capitol & the Black Sea. There are many kiosks catering to passengers, around the bus stop, & to draw attention to themselves in the dark hours, many are lit around the clock as if it's always Christmas!
Fondest memory: January 2010 on an overnight autobus from 0dessa to Kiev, I woke up in the early hours, while passengers for Uman were getting off in a blizzard. I did not have my contact lenses in, so the blurred flurry of snow with the magicolour lights around the shops was truly surreal & something I've never forgotten. When I did put my lenses in & realised the outside temperature was -10 & dropping, I decided to just appreciate the beauty of it & not step outside. When I think of Uman, it's always these twilight zone impressions of enchantment by sparkling lanterns in the cold of night...Related to:
- Budget Travel
- Study Abroad
- Road Trip
Favorite thing: Information about the teachings of the Chassidic master Rebbe Nachman of Breslov (1772-1810) who died in Uman can be found at: breslov
A report about a pilgrimage can be found at:
by Yonassan Gershom
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