Celentano's Pizza: My favorite
This is a chain that has spots across Ukraine. Opens at 10 and has coffee, espresso, crepes, soups, salads & pizza as well as some other Italian foods, and some desserts. Everything we have tried has been very tasty and affordable even for our Ukrainian friends. The service was very friendly by local standards and I had no problems ordering in English. Espresso 75 cents, Pizza with a few toppings around $3. Ukrainian tap beers for about a $1. Try the Chernigiv unfiltered white beer, crisp and refreshing. Nice decor and very clean and modern.
Pyarmid: We had a good lunch...
We ate at Pyramid, across the street from the old "Tourist Hotel" near Maidan Shopping center. The 5 of us all had salads, entrees and sides. The food was tasty, 2 of us had fish, 1 sausage, 1 veal and 1 pork and everyone was satisfied with their meal. With beverages it was just under $15 a piece. The service was very helpful, but wouldn't come to table w/o you calling them over. But that seems typical here. In all a good meal, fair price but nothing special. The espesso I had was very good and only $1.
We ate at Mario near the theater about a block from the end of Kobalenski. It was quick, inexpensive and rather tasty. For lunch the 4 of us split a large pizza, we each had a small salad and beverages for just 7.50 dollars total. It must be a small chain as I saw another a few blocks from where our family lives on Nezalezhnosti. We plan on checking that one out too.
On our last evening we visited the Restaurant Koleso (Old Wheel) for dinner. It is listed in most guidebooks and seems to be popular with tour groups.
The restaurant consists of several vaulted underground rooms which are furnished with wooden tables and seats.
The rooms are decorated with old carriage wheels and the waiters are dressed in traditional costumes.
The multilingual menu offers mainly Ukrainian and Hutsul national dishes. I opted for a lamb meat stew with vegetables (30 UAH), which came with a large portion of polenta. To drink I had a local Obolon beer (4 UAH).
The meal was generally okay, but nothing too exiting. Also the rooms were in my opinion not illuminated bright enough and the wooden banks and tables were a bit uncomfortable.
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Due to its history Chernivtsi used to have many coffeehouses, where people met to see and talk. Nowadays the recently opened Viennese Coffeehouse seems to be the only place which keeps this tradition alive.
As the coffeehouse was listed in my guidebook we were quite keen on checking it out. So one late morning we popped in for a piece of cake and a tea. The interior consists of two storeys which are nicely decorated with pictures from Austrian times.
The cakes are on display at a glass counter, but can also be chosen from the menu which is available in English. Apart from sweet delicacies they also offers hearty snacks. Prices are above average, but still reasonable for Western standards.
I opted for a gateau Napoleon (12 UAH) and a black tea (12 UAH). My choice was excellent and we really enjoyed the atmosphere of the place.
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Pizzeria Bar Karuso
As our hotel didn't offer breakfast, we always tried to have at least a warm snack around lunch time during our time in Chernivtsi. One day we chose Pizzeria Bar Karuso for our little lunch break.
It is a small bar with less than 10 tables, which seems to be frequented mainly by locals. The menu is available in English and offers several small dishes as well as pizzas.
I ordered Grandma's speciality (16 UAH) which were potato varenyky with mushrooms and chicken in a sour cream sauce. Varenyky are a Ukrainain local dish, which consists of filled dumplings.
The service was a bit slow, but the varenyky were very tasty and just the right meal at this time of the day.
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On our first evening in Chernivtsi we were quite hungry and for some reason we didn't really know where to go for dinner.
We finally found Restaurant Efes which looked quite decent to us, although the building was hidden behind scaffoldings.
Due to its name the restaurant is probably specialised in Turkish cuisine. The interior is kept simple and of plain decor.
The menu is available in English, which can be a huge advantage if you are not used to read cyrillic letters.
Surprisingly enough, the guests around us all spoke English and were either tourists or local students who were happy to get in contact with us. All in all the restaurant was well visited.
I opted for a chicken filled with vegetables (24,95 UAH) and rice as side dish (5 UAH). To drink I ordered a big Chernihivske Beer (5 UAH). The dish was yummy and we had a really good time in the restaurant as we got in contact with quite a few different people.
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Videnska kavyarnya: Best place for dessert
Before they started redoing Kobalanskiya street, Videnska kavyarnya was one of the happening places in the city. With the streets being torn apart, most of the storesdown the street took a big hit and Videnska kavyarnya was no different. The times we were there it was always pretty slow and the staff was more than attentive. While they are a complete restaurant, the site is noted for their desserts. They have glass display counters that show the days selections of pastries. We normally just wander from counter to counter to find one that grabs our attention. The prices are high for the Ukraine, they are more in line with the prices you find in the USA. The biggest problem I had there was with the price for coffee. Paying $6 USA for a cup in America would be an offense, To pay that prince in the Ukraine made me feel taken advantage of. Go for the tea, it was much better priced.
Greece Food: American Hamburger??????????
We were walking down Prospekt Komorova when I saw a sign exclaiming “American Hamburger”. I couldn’t resist that. I sent the wife to pick up what I hoped to be a lil bit of home. She came back with the nicely wrapped sandwich and handed it to me. First thing I noticed was an regulation size and looking bun. A REAL hamburger bun, so far so good. Looking inside, a white substance that looked like mayonnaise, some shredded green stuff.. lettuce? …. And a meat patty. There was also some shredded carrots in there but I figured that was just some weird Ukrainian thing. With hope in my heart I took my first bite. The taste buds quickly fed the information to the brain. Ok, it wasn’t mayo but some type of sour cream. The lettuce turned out to be shredded cabbage. And the meat wasn’t hamburger but some soft meat stuff. All in all not bad, but not a hamburger.
Panda: Our favorite spot
This restaurant came highly recommended to us by a friend’s father and it did not let us down. I can’t count the number of times we ate there and it never let us down, whether it was just for a snack, dinner or banquet the food an atmosphere was always top notch. They have a enclose patio area that is great for a quick brew and snacks. If you want, you can climb up to the balcony that tops the patio and look down upon the minions below you.
Inside of the restaurant they have two rooms. The larger of the two is where the band normally plays in the evening. Just about every evening we were there, some kind of banquet was going on, regardless of the day of the week. The guitar player in the band is GREAT!!!! He’s worth the effort to go there by himself. One’s he starts playing people start dancing.
I attended two banquets there and ate more than my fair share. The food was totally outstanding and the only item that I ate and really didn’t like was the sliced horsemeat. Not for any problems about eating a horse, but it was kind of fatty tasting. After all the money I’ve lost at horse races, I have no problems eating them and getting some measure of revenge.
Grieg: Norwegian Composer - Ukrainian food
The restaurant is near the upper end of Liliengasse close to Austriaplatz.
I am often giving the old Austrian names of various reasons. You can still perfectly navigate in the central parts of Chernivtsy with the old city map of Czernowitz from about 1910. This map is also part of the re-printed historical tourist guidebook "Illustrierter Fuehrer durch die Bukovina" by Hermann Mittelmann, Czernowitz 1907 (in German) which can be bought in bookshops in the centre, for example on Ringplatz. It is a nice experience to explore the city this specific way! And surprisingly many even young people here still know the Austrian street names which were in official use only until 1919!
The interior looks very nice, far more upmarket than the prices of the good Ukrainian and Carpathian food which are surprisingly reasonable for such a place. I can highly recommend the place.
Favorite Dish: We had Ukrainian and Carpathian "Classics" but unfotunately we did not get the borshtsh soup which was on the menu. To the dishes the tasty L'vivske beer from the tap.
Cafe Carinthia: "Austrian" Cafe in Deutsches Haus
It was only a question of time until a restaurant or cafe was opened on the ground floor of the German House. No wonder that it became "Austrian" and no surprise that it is named after the Austrian state (Bundesland) Kaernten (Carinthia), Bucovina's partner region in Austria. Btw the capital of Carinthia, Klagenfurt, is twin city of Chernivtsy as well. So I would not be too surprised if under the next time something like a Restaurant Klagenfurt will open maybe near the City Hall, maybe at the place of former Cafe Habsburg.
Cafe Carinthia is clearly upmarket. I did not eat there - maybe next time.
What is very "Carinthian" here is the style in which the waitresses are dressed. It is a Carinthian style "Dirndl" and the Ukrainian girls are really looking nice in it. (Carinthian girls btw. have the fame to be among the prettiest in Austria, maybe because of their dominating Slavonic genes - despite of the psychopatic debates concerning bi-lingual German/Slovenian roadsigns in the area where the still today Slovenian speaking minority in Carinthia lives and there is a joke that the Carinthian girls have a slight phonetic defect which makes it impossible to them to say "no" :-)). I still did not check whether this applies to the pretty Ukrainian waitresses in Cafe Carinthia as well :-((
Favorite Dish: I had here only an espresso at the bar. The quality was excellent, aromatic and with a nice crema like at an Italian bar. Generally it can be stated that you get nowadays very good coffee on all good places in Western Ukraine. No wonder, L'viv, one of the ancient centres of European coffee culture, is not too far. I paid for the espresso quite the same I use to pay for it in Austria.
Wiener Cafe: An other Wiener Cafe
The first Vienna style Cafe in Western Ukraine was opened in L'viv but only a few years later a lady from Chernivtsy who temporarily emigrated to Creta to work there came back home with her savings and risked to start her own business with this Cafe/Restaurant. I can really congratulate her to her success. She has impressively shown that emigration must not end in leaving the home for ever. I wish that a majority of those Ukrainians who emigrated under the years since independence (more than 2 millions!) can find the way back and establish at home a reasonable material existence.
The place is definitely not Vienna style but pleasant. Relatively small space on two floors (smoking is only allowed on the upper one, the smoke is not noticed at the lower floor). All is nicely decorated with old photographs etc. and some posters and other remains from the prominent former old Austrian coffee merchant Julius Meinl.
There is life music on weekend evenings. A lady is playing piano and an excellently trained singer (he is a music teacher) is singing in a surprising quality.
Favorite Dish: They have of course Vienna style coffee but we had an excellent tea. We had also a dinner here - eclectic international dishes, excellently prepared, a nice experience indeed. Unfortunately no Ukrainian beer, only Löwenbräu, Carlsberg etc.
Park Pizza: Quick snack/ Breakfast
our hotel rate didn't include breakfast - for additional 18 Hr ($3.5) you can order a sandwich, which, we were explained, is brought to them from the airport (sounds strange, but this is what we were told ). so we decided to skip that option and go to a nearby cafe - Pizza Park - located at the begining of Holovna St., just couple blocks from the hotel.
Favorite Dish: there for the same money we had a great "continental" breakfast, consisting of an omelet, freshly baked rolls with mear and coffee/tea.
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Wiener Cafe: Great cakes!!!
You can eat all kind of appetizing food there, but what I really really enjoyed were the cakes.
You will pay around 12 hrivni for one big piece of cake, but it worth every copeika!!! :)
I do not know the street name but I can tell you that if you go behind the Holly Spirit Cathedral and follow the street on the right at about 50m you will see the cafe.
Favorite Dish: Cakes! :D
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