I am quite surprised by the lovely (even romantic) atmosphere of North Devon.
Please, don't expect a hectic nightlife, or hot sunny beaches with voluptuous girls dressing a bikini or less, don't expect Casinos or crazy discos. No ladies and gentlemen.
Here the life has a slower pace, calm and reflexive in a certain way, then be prepared to observe, to hear, to smell, to hike, to walk around meeting this friendly people and their different way of life. Take your camera and go outside for a rich walk, or for an excursion by boat, or fishing, or just sit in one of the various pubs and rest with a beer in your hands. As you can imagine after read my boring speech, I was needing this kind of places, then, don't believe me at all.
Updated May 19, 2013
This is something I've yet to do because it doesn't sail on Mondays (which is my only full day off during the summer) but is definitely on my "To Do" list.
Lundy is a three-and-half mile long, half-mile wide, chunk of granite sitting out where the Bristol Channel meets the Atlantic. The Island is almost totally undeveloped and is a popular destination for walkers and for appreciating the wildlife, both marine and onshore.
The Island is provisioned by the passenger-carrying supply ship the MS Oldenburg (locally referred to, affectionately, as the "Old Bugger"). The Oldenburg sails alternately from Bideford and Ilfracombe from late spring until autumn and offers both day trips and passage for longer stays (Lundy has 23 individual buildings which are available for short stays).
From Ilfracombe the crossing takes about 2 hours and the ship has a bar, buffet, shop, information centre and heated saloons. The adult day return fare, at the time of writing (June 2009) is 32.50 GBP which includes the entry fee to the Island.
UPDATE 2012 Now that I'm living and working here on Lundy you can ignore the first sentence of this tip!!
Updated Nov 1, 2012
Address: The Harbour
Website: www.lundyisland.co.uk
Next door to the Prince of Wales is the George and Dragon, reputedly Ilfracombe's oldest pub dating back to 1360, and of course reputedly haunted. This is characterful, cosy, pub with neither a juke box nor a fruit machine.
Unfortunately on my single visit I was the only person there but the barmaid was friendly and chatty - I think she was grateful to actually have a customer! The beer (Skinners "Betty Stogs") was in perfect condition and not too expensive.
Unfortunately no beer garden tho'!
According to the barmaid the George is much more of a dining pub and indeed it is recommended by the AA for its "no-nonsense" food.
Updated Jun 30, 2009
Address: 4/5 Fore Street
Phone: 01271 863851
Website: www.theaa.com/pubs/ilfracombe-the-george-dragon-374880
This is an atmospheric backstreet locals pub, a little bit off the tourist track. It is however just round the corner from the bus station and so ideal for a beer when waiting for the bus.
This is snug place with low beamed ceilings, flagstone floors and solid wooden fittings. Beer, the locally-brewed Otter, was spot-on and service friendly, although not particularly swift as the afternoon barman has a habit of disappearing - I've been in on two occassions now and neither time was he actually behind the bar! Both times when he did appear he was very apologetic - but Hey, you don't come to North Devon to be in hurry!
The big plus for me personally is the tranquil little beer garden out the back (for reasons which will be obvious if you visit pic #2).
Updated Jun 30, 2009
Address: 2 Fore Street
Phone: 01271 866391
This is definitely Ilfracombe's best located pub, sitting on the quayside. Although it is a magnet for us tourists it does have a pleasantly local feel to it. Beer and food are relatively cheap and although I haven't eaten here the food did look good - proper pub food! Beer was in good nick (Wadsworth 6X if I remember correctly), service was swift and friendly and although you can't take your beer out to the quayside there is a slightly scruffy beer garden out the back, the upper level of which overlooks the sea.
Updated Jun 30, 2009
Address: The Quay
Phone: 01271 866225
Ilfracombe sits in yet another stunning section of North Devon's coastal path and a short walk either East or West of the town leads to spectacular rocky scenery and interesting little coves.
This part of the path has a couple of steep sections but is fairly-well maintained and the climbs well worth their rewards. Not only are the walks a pleasure but in either direction lead to cracking pubs (at Lee Bay to the West and Combe Martin to the East).
Written Jun 29, 2009
Address: East or West - equally spectacular!
Website: www.southwestcoastpath.com
There are a couple of operators offering short cruises from Ilfracombe, the "Ilfracombe Princess" and the "Obsession". These allow you to enjoy the spectacularly dramatic rocky cliffs of the coastline and as a bonus often encounter marine mammals such as seals and dolphins.
The standard trips are about 90 minutes, cost from 12 pounds and both companies also offer tailored charters. Sailing times will depend on tides and the info is on the boards at the harbour. The booking office is also on the harbour in front of the Pier Tavern.
Updated Jun 29, 2009
Address: Ilfracombe Harbour
Website: www.ilfracombeprincess.co.uk
Sitting atop the appropriately named Lantern Hill is the St Nicholas Chapel which has the dual function of being a place of worship as well as the harbour's lighthouse. This tiny building dates back from the 14th century and now hosts a small local history museum in addition to its other functions.
The short walk up its hill gives a great overview of the town and harbour and the little museum is worth a visit. Entry is free, although a small donation is always appreciated, and there is a little gift shop too.
Written Jun 29, 2009
Address: Lantern Hill
Website: www.tour-devon.com/ilfracombe/lantern.htm
Ilfracombe is one of North Devon's main lifeboat stations being the base for the inshore D-class "Deborah Brown" and the all-weather seagoing Mersey-class "Spirit of Derbyshire". The lifeboat station is open to the public and hosts a small museum for which entry is free (although a small donation is appreciated).
The lifeboat ramp also serves as a general slipway for private craft - though you should note that the lifeboat may need to use it and so it should never be obstructed!
Updated Jun 29, 2009
Address: Ilfracombe Harbour
Phone: 01271 863771
Website: www.rnli.org.uk
Ilfracombe aquarium sits on the quayside. Its a small building with a walk through corridor with about twelve wall aquariums and a large pool basin. It costs £5 to enter which I thought was a little expensive for whats there.
Updated Mar 11, 2007
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