Manama Things to Do

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Fireej al Faadhel (The Eminent One's Quarter) is just to the west of Ras Rumman, and is a good example of the divisions that exist in this small country. While Ras Rumman is largely Bahraini and Shi'a, Fireej al Faadhel is primarily South Asian and sunni. Its streets and buildings are equally crowded and ill-kept, but the shops here proudly display South Asian goods and movies for sale, and the mosques in this area are all typically sunni, including the offices of the awqaf (or sunni religious foundation). This neighbourhood blends in to the commercial section beside Moda Mall and the offices that line the coastal highway.

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I have to admit, after I visited Bahrain for the first time, I was still confused by the way the media talked about "Shi'a villages". It was not until I came back in March 2011 that I realized that Shi'a villages actually meant Shi'a neighbourhoods, sometimes right in the capital itself. The first one of these that I visited was Ras Rumman, a neighbourhood very close to the Sheraton and right behind the British Embassy (which is why it was designated a "hot spot" during the protests). The village is nothing more than a number of cramped, winding streets that also, for some reason, host the La Fontaine art gallery (which I have yet to see open to the public). There is not much to see here, unless you are interested in the manner in which poverty still exists in the wealthy oil producers of the Gulf. There are a few Shi'a mosques here, some of which have some interesting displays of flags and dioramas.

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Yes, yes, I know that Muharraq is on a different island from Manama, and that it is, technically, another city. Nevertheless, it is hard to go by Bahraini municipal divisions here, since the "towns" are so small that they would be considered neighbourhoods in any other place. Muharraq is on the same island as the airport and is built up with a lot modern structures that contrast with the nearby traditional fort of Arad and the idyllic fishing boats along the coast. Muharraq souq is, like Manama Souq, largely South Asian. You are very unlikely to find any traditional Khaliji products here, or reminders of Bahrain's past. Unlike Manama Souq, however, Muharraq does not play host to the hotels and furnished apartments that attract many expats from Saudi Arabia. It does not have the same feel as a sleazy resort town that Central Manama does, which is, in itself, an interesting comparison.

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Sulaimaniya became famous in March 2011 when the hospital first took in the scores that were wounded or killed during the crackdown on protests, and then when it was stormed by the security forces after Pearl Roundabout was taken by the Army. For the few days after that event, Sulaimaniya was a ghost town, unlike its usual self. The area is mixed between Bahrainis and foreigners, Muslims and non-Muslims, Shi'a and Sunna. Much of it is fairly modern and unattractive, forming a commercial area that provides services to the capital and to the diplomatic missions in the area. There are some parts of the neighbourhood that are quite pretty, nevertheless. One of these is a large Shi'a mosque at the crossroads on the road in from Saudi Arabia. This tiled mosque is characteristic of the Shi'a mosques across the island, and it adds a bit of local colour to an area that has a very large expat population.

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I was, in all honesty, very disappointed by Manama Souq the first time that I visited it. I had expected something much closer to the Souq in Kuwait, which was alive with traditional traders, perfume shops, jewellery shops, and a bustling food market and food court that offered visitors a taste of what the place had been like before the boom. The Manama Souq, by contrast, had absolutely no Arab flavour. Almost entirely South Asian and Thai, you are unlikely to find any shops that cater to traditional Bahraini or Khaliji tastes. Almost all the restaurants here are either Indian or Thai. This is broken only by the presence of a number of cheap hotels that cater primarily to the Westerners and expat Arabs who come over from the Eastern Province of Saudi Arabia. This area is sleazy and, unfortunately, presents a picture of Bahrain divorced in part from the country's traditions.

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Sadly, one of the big attractions for coming to Bahrain are the malls. They are a bit better than the ones in Saudi Arabia, but not quite as luxurious as the ones in Kuwait or as kitschy and touristy as the ones in Dubai. While Moda Mall is certainly not the biggest of all the malls, it is, nevertheless, one of the most remarkable, because of the large propellors in between the office towers attached to the mall. Inside you will find many high-end stores, including Hermès, D&G, Giorgio Armani, Todd's and other fashion house names, as well as smaller boutiques selling jewellery, eyeglasses and perfume. There are a few cafés as well, but not restaurants. These can be found in the adjoining Sheraton, where there is an Iranian restaurant as well as an Arab one.

Visiting in Bahrain is not complete with out visiting the Manama souq, it is a narrow alleyways where you can find the different kind of store bargaining buys, all kinds of spices, fabrics, handicrafts, souvenirs, dry fruits and lots more.

You have to go to visit this tree. Its at the top of the list of most "things to do in Bahrain". Whether you believe the history, are amazed at the old tree growing in a pretty barren landscape, apalled at the grafitti and oil cans left around the beautiful old branches, fascinated by the new growth, you have to visit it. If you come to Bahrain and dont you'll have missed one of the things that others will ask you about.

Its great to visit in the summer months as you'll probably be the only people there, but its hot.

If you are precious about the vehicle you are in, the last couple of hundred yards are on an unmade road so be prepared for a bumpy ride.

Good photo opportunity.