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From the Mtatsmindis Park, we had a nice, but hazy view at the city of Tbilisi.
From here we could see very well its location in the valley of the Mtkvari River and we got our first impression of the size of the city and its surroundings.
A nice early morning start, allthough there was a cold northern wind, when we visited the park. Leave a Comment Directions: Take the funicular railway from the Tavadzis Gamziri at the southbank
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Borjomi is about 2 1/2 hours from Tbilisi by car which means you could do this a day trip, or use it as a base for exploring attractions farther afield (such as the cave monastery complex of Vardzia which is what we did). The main attraction in Borjomi is the Borjomi Mineral Water Park - where the ubiquitous bottled Borjomi water comes from. It's a nice place to walk around and in the summer there are places you can swim. The walk from the train station to the water park is also very scenic as some impressive old houses line the streets. Leave a Comment Directions: Walk up 9 Aprilis Kucha on the north side of the river
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Old town of Tbilisi is very unique and beautiful! I loved going to Chardin street and hanging out in one of the cafes or restaurants there. Although a bit pricy, the small street offers a variety of restaurants from anything Chinese to Moroccan and a great outdoor seating. There's live music playing next to Chardin Rue #12 but can be heard almost anywhere. It is also a great place to find out about the latest fashion as people walking by are the true examples of it ;-) Leave a Comment Address: Chardin StreetDirections: In the Old Town by the river
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BORJOMI: Not realy much to do here...it used to be a famous mountain resort, but now the hotels (huge Soviet monsters) are either full of refugees or have no beds in the rooms. Borjomi is known throughout Georgia as it is the source of the fizzy odd-tasting mineral water which appears at every meal. The main reason for going there is to see the Mineral Water Park...it is a bit run-down, but nice enough to walk through. There are fountains where you can bottle your own water, and if you keep following the path through the park for about 4 kilometres, you'll eventually come to some hot springs reached by a precarious log-bridge. If only Lonely Planet had told me about these, I would have taken a towel. I was in need of a wash at that point, as the sanatoria (see above) didn't go in for personal hygiene (i.e. no showers or even sinks)!!! Leave a Comment Directions: 4 hours west of Tbilisi...the bus costs hardly anything.
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KAKHETI REGION: Famous for its wines, there are also many remote and beautiful churches and monasteries, such as Ninortsminda, Alaverdi, Sighnaghi and Ikalto, near Telavi. You'll need a car to get to most of them though!
This photo shows Ikalto church. Leave a Comment Directions: East of Tbilisi, near the border with Azerbaijan. Buses go to Telavi, but I'm not sure how to get to the other places I mentioned without a car.
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KAZBEGI: This is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. First of all, the journey there is spectacular, if a little hair-raising at times, along the Georgian Military Highway (sounds grand, until you see it!). The road (or track/goat path, as it seems to be in places) passes through Ananuri where a huge stone church complex sits on a cliff above the turquoise Zhinvali reservoir, and Gudauri, the premier ski resort in Georgia, before reaching the Jvari Pass at something like 2600m above sea level, then the road drops, ending in Kazbegi. Kazbegi is surrounded by impossibly tall mountains, and is completely cut off in winter due to heavy snow. The town doesn't have any sights as such, but the setting more tha makes up for this. The main reason for visiting Kazbegi is to trek up to the church of Tsminda Sameba above the village of Gergeti, with Mount Kazbek towering in the background. Leave a Comment Directions: Kazbegi is the last town on the Georgian Military Highway before the Russian border and Vladikavkaz. It takes about 5 hours to get there from Tbilisi, and 4 on the way back (less if you have a kamikaz
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KUTAISI: This is Georgia's second city, although it doesn't feel much like a city as there seem to be more cows in the streets than cars. The centre of town is quite picturesque, but falling apart (like many places in Georgia, unfortunately). The main sight is the ruined Bagrati cathedral on the opposite bank of the river to the town centre...it has great views over the city, and apparently on clear days you can see as far as the monastery complex at Gelati (I wasn't lucky with the weather...typical!). In any European country, this would have been restored and a phenomenal fee charged at the gate, but it is completely free for tourists and sheep to wander into the roofless cathedral. Restoration is being carried out, but it looks to be a long job, especially considering the economic problems. Around the cathedral is the site of an ancient citadel, although it is hard to distinguash between castle and cathedral ruins. In the town,. there is a very small and discreet Jewish quarter, and an interesting Russian-style church on a small hill to the north of the town. Kutaisi is a good place from which to visit monasteries at Gelati adn Motsameta, both in spectacular positions, and worth visiting even if you are not a Christian (like me). There are a couple of museums in town, but on my visit they were both experiencing electricity problems and had no natural light, so they didn't encourage me to enter! Leave a Comment Directions: Slap bang in between Tbilisi and the coast. It takes about 5 hours by bus from the capital, 4 by marshrutka...and there are plenty of minibuses to Gelati and Motsameta, although be prepared for a tigh
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The latest edition of Lonely Planet - Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan is far superior to the version I had in 2001! What I like most about the recent version is the far greater list of accommodation options they supply, including details of homestays. When I travelled in the Caucasus, for many places there was maybe 1 option which was normally far from desireable. The link below is to Amazon which has the best range and prices for books on the Caucasus of any online store that I have found. Leave a Comment
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From a sleepy mountain town at the border with Russia, Kazbegi has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in Georgia, probably second only to T’bilisi. And for every good reason this is true: a 14th century church built on a mountain peak at 2200m above sea level (Tsminda Sameba) and a 2nd class mountain of 5200m (Mount Kazbeg).
While Georgians go to Tsminda Sameba in pilgrimage on religious celebrations, foreigners look for the scenery, the local atmosphere, the trekking routes in the mountains and the legend of Prometheus chained on Kazbeg mountain.
For further info, can visit my Kazbegi page. Leave a Comment
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The town of Gori, Stalin's birthplace, is about 1 1/2 hrs from Tbilisi by car. The Stalin Museum was built around the tiny house that Stalin lived in until he was 15 - which is lovingly preserved and protected from the elements. The museum itself is full of Stalin memoribilia and the tour guides (Russian language only) talk of him as if he were a hero which gives the proceedings a bizzare air.
The highlight for me was Stalin's train carriage (outside of the museum) which he actually used. It even has a tiny kitchen (which he probably did not use).
Admission is $1 for the complex and extra if you want to take pictures. They also sell picture postcards which make great gifts for all of your Stalin-admiring buddies. ;) Leave a Comment Address: Stalin 32, GoriPhone: 22681
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