Esfahan Favorites

Favorite thing: The historic bridges of modern Esfahan are of course Safavid, like the Maidan. Each bridge coincides with a straight avenue running through the city from north to south. The best-known is the 132- m long Pol-e Khaju (Khaju Bridge), some 1.5 km downstream (east) of Sio Seh Pol, which is slightly smaller but even more attractive, with two levels of terraces overlooking the river. From bank to bank, and on the foundations of an earlier structure by the order of Shah Abbas II in 1650 AD, this magnificent bridge has been constructed with two purposes in mind: to be used both as a roadway and a dam (by means of sluices, the level of the river may be raised or lowered at will). The original purpose of this dam was to form an artificial lake for some distance upstream, in front of the numerous palace buildings and kiosks that stood on either side of the river. It is now used to raise the level of the river sufficiently to fill irrigation canals on either side.
But its most fascinating features are the pavilions set into the 12-meter width called Shah Neshin (Royal Parlors) and once decorated with faience and inscriptions. The famous tea-house under the bridge is currently closed but may be reopened soon: this used to be one of the most atmospheric places in Iran to sit and drink tea or smoke the ghalian (hubble- bubble), surrounded by slumbering Esfahan manhood.

Favorite thing: Mausoleum of Baba Qassem

Located to the north of the Friday Mosque, is the Mausoleum of Baba Qassem (Aramgah-e Baba Ghassem. an Iranian theologian) built in 1340 AD by a theological student named Suleiman ibn el-Hassan Talut Damghani in memory of his teacher. The entrance gateway is decorated with attractive stalactite ornamentation, beautiful tiles and an inscription executed by the well-known calligrapher Mohammad Reza Imami in 1634, the date when the renovation works of the site were completed. The pyramidal brick cupola of the mausoleum, with attractive mosaic tile decor, ranks among Esfahan's most remarkable historic re. Inside the mausoleum, under the cu, there are numerous inscription frieon a background of urquoise- ctiles. An inscription in white Thought characters set on an azure tile background, is seen on the crescent above the mehrab, which gives the name the person by whose order it was built.
For Madraseh lmami next to the mausoleum, see under MADRASEHS OF ESFAHAN

Mausoleum of Shahshahan

As a famous mausoleum, this is the burial- place of a mystic named Shah Ala' od-Din Mohammad who lived in the 15th century AD, and was killed by the Timurid king Shahrokh, according to the inscriptions found there. The original building is of Timurid period and has later been repaired under the Safavids. Its tile work, plaster ornamentation, as well as the interior stucco inscriptions (in Persian and Arabic) are very remarkable as regards their magnificence and charm. The cupola of the mausoleum has been reconstructed in recent years and is planned to be decorated with tile work in near future. It has an ivan and a carved door bearing the date 1446 AD. The latest repair of the mausoleum was carried out during the reign of Safavid Shah Abbas I in 1604 AD, according to a plaster inscription inside the mausoleum.

Fondest memory: Mausoleum of Pir-Bakran

Located in Pir-Bakran 30 km to the southwest of Esfahan, the tomb of Pir- Bakran, together with a gallery and courtyard date back to the 14th century AD, and have been constructed in the reign of the Mongol Ilkhan Oljaitu. This complex of structures bears two dates, namely 1303 and 13 12 Ad, and possesses excellent stucco decorations and tile work inscriptions in Thlllth and Kuffic styles, and a series of inscriptional plaster works add considerably to the grandeur and charm of this monument. The mausoleum is that of an eighth-century pious man, Mohammad ibn-e Bakran, and consists of a gallery, a courtyard, a portal, and the tomb itself. The name of the constructor and decorator of this superb building, given in the inscription, is Naqqash (the painter), and his work ranks among the masterpieces of the decorative art in Iran. The cemetery of the Jews of Esfahan can be seen in front of this complex. The Shrine of Esther Khatun is visited by the Jews of the region.

Tomb of Harun Velayat

The construction of Harun Velayat or Harunieh, is composed of a cupola, a tomb-box, two courtyards and two portals beautifully ornamented with mosaic tiles delicate scrolls, and complex designs. It was erected in 1523 AD, in the reign of the Safavid king Shah Ismail I, by the order of one of his reputed military commanders named Dormish Khan, and repaired under other sovereigns of the same dynasty. Innumerable inscriptions in different calligraphic styles, set on mosaic tile background, including the inscription of its ancient stone trough, are found in this monument. Some lines of verse from Safavid and Qajar periods can also be seen in the mausoleum and the porch. The superb tile-decorated cupola of the monument also bears an inscription in Kuffic around its base.

Favorite thing: There are several hospitals in Esfahan. The former Anglican Hospital is next to the Church of St Luke in Abbas Abad Street. Somc ofthc hospitals arc as j()llows:
I. Askarych 250041-9.
2. I;ciz 259031-5.
3. Ha?rat-e Qa'em 616001-9.
4. Sadoghi 282031-7.
5. Shahid Bcheshti 267001-3.

Favorite thing: . Ali Asghar 222148.
2. Edalat, Chahar Bagh-e Bala Ave 244606
3. Emdad, Ferdowsi Ave 227713-4.
4. Esfahan, Amadegah St 223511.
5. Hakim Shafa 265846.
6. Kushesh, Sheikh Bahai Ave 234494.
7. Markazi, Masjid-e Seyed St 230036.
8. Sajjad 224197.

Favorite thing: For just 7000 rials I got a pot of tea and a water pipe (ghaliyan) with banana flavoured tobacco (!).
I could sit forever and smoke water pipe, take a sip of hot tea and see the water running just beside me...
This is a must when you are in Esfahan!

Favorite thing: Golestan-e-shohada certainly are no standard touristattraction. This is the local cementery for people who lost their lives during the long war between Iran and Iraq. In this large and peacefull area hundreds and hundreds of young men are buried. On top of the graves their photos are displayed. You walk along the seemingly endless collection of faces, all have a personal touch. There is a soldier with a dog, there are one young uniform proud soldier, no more than a boy. There is the father, the son the brother and the husband. Some places the photos of two or three brothers are standing side by side. This display can't leave anybody untoutched. Here is also fields of graves with no photo, are those the last restingplace of now unknown people? The war now have entered the historybooks, but here it is still a living memory. Beside some graves lonely women was sitting with their qurans. For them the war still is an open wound. This park lies about 1,5 kilometer south of the Kaju bridge, and can easily be reached by taxi or by foot.

Favorite thing: The tomb of Abu Adullah, which has these shaking minarets a few hundred years old is an OK attraction, but not breathtaking. Entrance is 30,000 Rial. If you go I recommend to take the bus (from the bus station or Taleqani st. going to Kaladyn), which stops just outside. It's 7 km from Esfahan city and the bus fare is only 250 Rial.

Favorite thing: The above mentioned took its foundation in the late Teimooride period, and was constructed according to what it is currently in 1060 AH, under the orders of Shah Abbas II. Its cubicles, adornments and tile work are interesting aspects of this constructions. There is a structure in the center of the bridge, known as the Beglarbegi construction. The same was used as a temporary residence for the royal family. The name of this bridge is a distorted version of the word 'Khajeh' which was a title for great personalities in the Safavid era. It was constructed on the Zayandeh Rood River.