Dasht-e Arzhan Things to Do

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While we were there, more families arrived, and it was fascinating to watch them erect their tents and set up their camps. Everybody gathers around to help their ‘new’ neighbours, and each family have the same pitch from year to year. Many of the families use trucks to transport their goods these days in addition to the donkeys.

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Iranian hospitality is legendry, and the Qashqai nomads are no exception. As soon as we arrived, we were invited in for the ubiquitous tea. Their tent is black and large, and the whole family sleeps in the one tent. One side is rolled up during the day and then lowered at night. We were guests of Dastani, his wife, two children and mother-in law. All the people in this area are related, as I mentioned before, and Dastani’s wife was related to him. It does sound almost a little incestuous to me.

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During the time of the Shah, the Qashqai were forced to settle in one place, now they are on the move again, despite the government trying to encourage them to settle down by giving them various facilities in their winter camp by the Persian Gulf. I have been led to believe they have electricity, running water and even internet access at the other camp. Most of the time they spend winter by the sea as it is warmer, and summer around this area.

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The Qashqai Nomads originally came from Azerbaijan, but were forced out by the Mongols. These Turkic-speaking people are the most educated of all the nomadic tribes in Iran. Many of the Qashqai have now settled, but around 300 people (all related in some way) live the traditional nomadic existence in this area. Iran is said to be home to the largest concentration of traditional nomads in the world.

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The Gar Ghave Aghaj River is used as drinking water by the Qashqai nomads when they make their summer camp in this area. At the time we visited, the river was fairly dry, but it does go all the way to the Persian Gulf I am told.