Two interesting sights are the old bridge and aqueduct, located down in the valley below the ancient village, by the newmosque. There’s a path that leads you there that starts right by the caravanserrail. The aqueduct is still in use and it’s quite complex and fascinating – the bridge is stunning and hair-rising. It’s very high and narrow – in fact...more
The new mosque is so brand new that it is not yet finished - and yet it is an ancient sight, site and holy shrine. It's just a bit of an intricate story. This new mosque was born as a shrine on the site where one of the followers of the Imam Reza died, on his way to Mashad. This man was Baba Khadem, and his tomb is much revered. The new mosque is...more
This caravanserrail is at the same time both fascinating and disappointing. It’s a very old one – it was built under the orders of Mohammad Vali Mriza, the offspring of Fath Ali Shah - and it is called Shahzadeh caravanserrail. It was a mighty construction – and it has completely been restored – hence the disappointment… Restoration works have not...more
At the guesthouse everyone takes their meals together, either in the fruit tree garden or in a communal room, and the food is simple but delicious… and in particular very friendly. Try never to get too hungry: cooking is a slow process and in the case of our dinner, the preparation was 4 hours... The dish was very simple and it would have taken anyone else under 1 hour to prepare it.
Favorite Dish: We had a good breakfast of delicious bread, cheese, eggs and jam - a great lunch of fesenjun and saffron rice, and a not very healthy dinner: a traditional dish made of fried mash potato dumlings and salad. Accommodation, with thee meals costs 15 dollars – tea and coffee are included, but not soft drinks.
Getting to Kharanaq is fairly simple if you come from Yazd, as the Silk Road hotel there can organize you a cheap car and driver to take you to their sister-guesthouse. I think that there are some buses, too - stopping in the new town - which is not a problem since Kharanaq is not really a big place.One of the advantages of getting there by car is...more
A popular day tour from Yazd is to visit Kharanaq, Meybod, Ardakan and Chak Chak. I asked for it at Silk Road Hotel and they arranged for the driver and guide Hassan to come the next morning. The tour was IR 350 000 (July 2006), so it is good if you can find someone else at the hotel to share the price with.We first went to the village Kharanaq and...more
Elvis is not the real name if this your guy we met in Kharanaq... we were about to set off exploting the "castle" with a Finnish girl we met at the guesthouse, that we bumped into him. Beng an au-pair in tehran, she spoke some Farsi, and asked for information... and this very friendly guy decided he had some hours to kill, got off his bike and showed us around.
He was very charming and looked like Elvis in his hey-days, in particular because of his clothes. At the end of our visit we were all dirty and covered in dust... while he managed to stay clean, in his white outfit. We found him really fascinating. He had to leave suddenly, to go and pick up his mother somewhere... he did not accept any money or present - only then we realized he had not told us his name. Whoever you are... thank you, Elvis.
Some of the old buildings, and it’s difficult to tell which ones by looking at them, are in bad state and need restoration works. Basically they are falling down, but there are no sign to keep visitors off dangerouns areas. It is a fact that some tourists have already fallen through roofs and hurt themselves.
The only thing yuy can do is to be careful where you step, and even better, visit the fortress with a local, who will be able to tell you where you can walk safely and where you really ought not to.
Kharanaq is an ancient mud-brick village of Kharanaq, continuously inhabited for over 4000 years, an oasis of beauty and since in the middle of the desert, actually of two deserts, and , surrounded by beautiful mountains. Parts of the village are over 1000 years old, although only a few families live there now – most of moved to the most comfortable and more modern part of the village. Kharanaq can be found on the highway to Tabas and Mashad, 1 hour drive from Yazd.
Fondest memory: Local people – though very shy of tourists, can occasionally be seen taking curious glances through the entrance door of the guesthouse where I was staying. They are simple but nice people, all very helpful though not many speak English. They still farm the lands in a traditional way and make use of a fascinating canal system that can be seen downby the old mosque. Everything is slowly-paces and peaceful – the perfect place to wind down and forget about time...