Tehran Things to Do

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I'd passed this shrine on the way from the airport, and was curious to see inside - I'd recently seen a documentary on Islamic Art, where part of the filming was done here.
I think my guide was a bit surprised by my request to go here. I wasn't entirely sure if it was a good idea, but we set off.

The shrine is still undergoing construction. From a distance you can see the 4 towers (one to represent each of Khomeinis daughters) which each reach 91 metres (the age when he died) The gold dome is embellished with 72 tulips (to remember the 72 people who fought alongside the Ayatollah in Karbala, and were killed)

Entering the large car park, I could see lots of people picnicking, many having erected the small tents, that I was to see many more of during my trip.

I removed my shoes and took them to a man standing by a rack, who smiled and said 'Welcome to Iran'

Entering the shrine (Through the separate Womens entrance) I was surprised to see an X-Ray machine. My bag was put through, while I was frisked. The bleep went off, and my bag was sent through again. I was wondering what had set the bleep off, when I suddenly remembered my Swiss Army knife was in one of the pockets.

Just as I was about to wonder if this was going to be my second 'incident' of the day (See my US Den of Spies tip) I was waved through, by a chador wearing woman. She asked my country, then announced this to her fellow workers. Intermittently she appeared at my side asking 'Iran good'?? I was expecting to have to wear a chador, but this wasn't necessary.

I'd read in my guide book, that it was strictly no photographs, so wasn't expecting to be seeing men and women with their phone cameras snapping away.

The shrine itself is in a large glass case, cordoned off into separate sides for males and females.

A photograph of Khomeini sits at the foot of his tomb, which is next to his sons tomb.
the floor is littered with bank notes, of different values and currencies.

I was wondering how the money got there, when my guide (Hovering nearby in the Mens section) indicated slots in the glass case at eye level.

There were a few individuals walking around the tomb, praying and kissing the glass wall, others just sat in groups chattering. Apparently, Khomeini had requested his shrine be a public place where the public could visit and enjoy themselves, rather than a mosque, with its codes of behaviour and restrictions. It is open 24/7

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Entering the complex through the gate, I saw a typical Iranian garden with a central pool, surrounded by lawns, trees , shrubs and flowers.
(Golestan Palace is also known as 'The Palace of Flowers' )

In the distance were buildings edging the width of the park. These buildings were the palaces of the Qajar rulers. Some date back 400 years.

This was once the heart of Tehran, and was enclosed by the mud walls of the Citadel (or Arg)

Open 09.00 -15.30 Closed Thursdays and Sundays


I left my guide to sort out the tickets at the nearby kiosk. Tickets for entrance to the individual palaces must be purchased here, so plan ahead which ones you want to see.

He returned, to apologetically explain that some of the 7 palaces open to the public were closed (for renovation) including the Ethnographical museum, where I had been looking forward to seeing exhibits of Iranian life such as a tea house and a Qajar wedding.

Never mind, there was still plenty to see!-

Nasser al -Din Shah, ruled from1848 -96. He visited Europe on many occasions, and inspired by the palaces that he'd seen on his travels, had this impressive complex built, which would have contained private living quarters for his family and staff, as well as offices and ministries.

Please continue to my following tips-

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This museum was a pleasant surprise, my guide and I were 'killing time' waiting for our driver, and came across the Park - E - Laleh (see previous tip).

Initially, we just looked into the entrance foyer, where a bright glass mobile was catching the light - but a man at the ticket office waived us in, to look around.

My guide explained we were only going to have time for a quick look. - we got free admission!
I wasn't really too bothered about looking at modern art - I think I was still traumatised from the exhibits at the Biennale in Venice last year!

However, I was surprised to see lots of pictures that I did like.

The paintings are displayed in different rooms off a corridor, where young chador clad students, clutching notepads, were studying the artwork, or making sketches and notes.

The museum has both temporary and Permanent exhibits, of Iranian artists work.

Surprisingly, it has what may be considered the greatest collection of Western Art in Asia, with billions of $'s worth of paintings by artists as diverse as Picasso, Van Gough, Warhol, Pollock, Matisse and Dali. However, this collection is not displayed at present -as it is deemed to be a symbol of Western liberalism.

The museum was established in the 1970's by Queen Farah Diba, and is housed in the modernist concrete building, which is one of the many 'modern landmarks' erected by the Shah in the 1970's.

Later in my trip, in Esfahan, I came across the work of Abbas Rostamian, and was very taken with his paintings and treated myself to a piece. I read that some of his work is exhibited here.

Although we didn't have time for a drink, the cafe here is apparently quite good, and serves real coffee!

Open 0900 - 1800 Sat - Thurs
1400 - 1800 Fri
Closes 1900 in Summer

Admission IR4000

Opposite the US Den of Espionage is this museum dedicated to the memory of Irans Martyrs or Shahids.
Open Saturday - Thursday 08.30 - 15.30. Free admission.

Although there are 2 floors of exhibits - I only saw the first floor.

Glass cases contain photographs, personal items, and a certificate of the Martyrs name, date of birth and death, age at death, where/ how they died and a 'tribute'
Some of the cases contained blood stained clothing or shoes that had been blown off by a bomb blast.

Quiet music is played in the background. There were very few other visitors at the time of our visit.

Most of the exhibits are dedicated to the martyrs who died in the 8 year Iran - Iraq war or the 1979 Revlution, though there are also victims of torture.

One exhibit that was pointed out to me was The "miracle" of the daughter of a martyr. Her exam schedule had to be signed by her father. He was Mojtaba Salehi, a cleric who was killed in an ambush as he drove food supplies to the front line.
The girl dreamed that her dead father had signed the school report, and when she awoke it had indeed been signed. Witness statements confirm the miracle!

I understand that there are guided tours of the museum, though I expect these are mainly in Farsi.

Later that day, I visited the Martyrs Cemetery - Behesht-e Zahra, which was quite a moving experience. (see my later tip).

Shi'ites believe that blood can revitalize religion and that the shahid [martyr] has the highest position in society.

The book 'Persian Mirrors: The Elusive Face of Iran'. (2000) by Elaine Sciolino includes a piece on Martyrdom in Iran.

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Sarkis Armenian Orthodox church built in the late 1960s.
It is the most visible non-Islamic building in the city.

across the street painted on a large building is a mural of the Virgin Mary holding the baby Jesus in her arms & a statue of Madonna & the son flourish the Park-e Hazrat Maryam.

I found this place by mistake when I'm trying to find Jewel Museum. It was not listed as the must see places for tourists but it caught my attention when I look at pictures at the ad board outside the museum. It showed pics of tortured victims during the era of revolution. I can't go in as yet bcos they hv schedules visiting hours since you can't explore the museum on your own. I came back at 2pm. There were about 100 people (mostly locals), and a guide took us in. First, we were shown a movie about the revolution. It was in farsi and I didn't understand much. However a very nice Iranian helped translated everything for me (without being asked to do so). Then, we were taken to the exhibition rooms, from one floor to another, showing pics of the Shah and his family and their fortunes, the important people in SAVAK who were responsible in giving orders for the torturing and finally we were shown actual devices and equipments used to torture the victims (something like Tuol Sleng - S21 prison in Cambodia). Wax statues were used to show how the torturing were done and it could be a bit scary for children bcos it was quite real (the bloods etc). By joining this tour, one could fully understand what actually goes on during the revolution and why Iranians are like how they are now. The last part of the tour was when we were taken to the shower room where a few wax victim statues lining up, and the sounds of screaming were played, to show that the victims are getting insane by the torturings (this part was pretty scary). We were given key chains as souvenirs and were asked to send the correct messages to the world about the revolution. The total time for the guided tour was about 2 hours. I can't take any picture since it was not permitted. I regard this as a very useful experience since I myself previously had some incorrect idea about the revolution, but now I have a better understanding on what's going on during that difficult times for the Iranians.

Entrance fee is IR 50 000 (about USD 5).

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The next palace to view would have been the Ethnographic museum, which I had been looking forward to, but this was closed for renovation, so we decided it was time to find lunch.


Heading for the exit, while admiring the gardens, I was startled by a bird in the tree above me, It took a while to see it, but I could hear it very clearly- I couldn't make out its call, but it sounded like a parrot!

My guide couldn't think of its name in English, so he asked a man in the ticket kiosk, who confirmed that it was a parrot - I was quite surprised as I hadn't realised that these birds were to be found in Iran.

Near the tree with the parrot, there was an old tree, which I was told was a Maple tree.(pic 2)

Aks Khaneh, or House of Photographs/ Historic Photo Gallery was an unintentional visit, which proved to be an unexpected gem! This was the most impressive museum for me.

I'd been busy taking photos of the tiles and windtowers of Emarat Badgir, and realised I'd lost my guide. I couldn't see him, so thought he must have gone down into the next building, which was the photography museum.

I descended the steps into a light and airy 'crypt' and was surprised to see he wasn't there. A young man on the ticket desk was beckoning me to purchase a ticket, I tried to explain that I was looking for my guide, but his English was as good as my Farsi- nearly non existent! We both tried again, but he gave it up as a bad job and indicated for me to look around. Looking for my guide was forgotten as I browsed the fascinating Black and White photographs depicting palace life, Tehran and Iran.

Unfortunately, there was a 'No Photographs' sign displayed, which I thought was a bit mean in a photography museum!

Apparently Nasser-al-Din was given a camera as a gift soon after its invention, which was the start of his avid interest in photography. Many of the displayed photos bear his signature.

I particularly liked the photos of his many wives, was fascinated by the 'Dwarfs and Freaks' (brought in as entertainment to the Palace - before PC got a hold!)

Another pic depicted a man being 'punished' by laying on his back with his feet raised onto a wooden rail, while his feet were whacked with what looked like stripped tree branches- he had been given a nice rug to lay on though!!!!

There were also photos of prominent people of the time such as a surgeon.- I thought that I'd noted all the photos down, but appear to have mislaid my list.

While looking at the photos I'd spotted one of Yazd and the Zoastrian Towers of Silence. I was pleased to see this, as Yazd wasn't on my itinerary. However, I hadn't looked closely enough, and it wasn't until I returned home that I realised I hadn't spotted the decaying bodies in the photos - in hind sight, perhaps a good thing!

My guide had appeared, so after having a chance to view all of the photos we left.

I was pleased to have visited this museum, not just for its photographs, but its architecture of light stone and subtle lighting, which gave it a contemporary feel, even though it is probably over 300 years old.

This building was originally a summer 'cool house', where water was pumped into a pool below the wind tower. This system isn't used now, as its effects are detrimental to the photos and interior.