To Kurdi nazani? You don't speak Kurdish?!
So, what to do if you're not a Kurdish speaker? Well, an obvious second language is Arabic, and if you know even a little, it will be a huge advantage here. There is some reluctance among Kurds to speaking the language of their oppressors, but anyone over 30 will have been taught in Arabic only, and those under 30 who have been to school may well have studied it as a foreign language. I found the best thing to do was to ask in Kurdish "To Arabi dazani?" ("do you speak Arabic?") and then apologize for not being able to speak Kurdish yet. Once people worked out that I was not Arab (which admittedly doesn't take long...), then they had no problems using that language to communicate with me. The Iraqi dialect is a little unusual in that the letter "k" is often pronounced "ch", a sound not found in other dialects, but on the whole, knowing Arabic helped me enormously.Don't speak Arabic? Not a...


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