Do not tell the Turkish authorities you are going to the Kurdish areas. Tell them you're going somewhere else even though they will laugh at you and say you will be killed. Making some fake letters from an 'employer' is what got me in, but I'm not sure if this is necessary.
Do not have any papers in your bags or on your person that refers to Kurdistan or Kurds.
On the Iraqi side (across a small river) the PKK customs point will give you a paper to keep in your passport. In May 2004 they did not stamp passports.
