The Quarters, Jerusalem

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The densest populated quarter of the Old City, accounting for more than 70% of the population, is the Muslim quarter. It's a warren of alleyways (covered or exposed) and, as you move away from the tourist tack of the Via Dolorosa and immediate surrounds, a surprising amount of 'normal' shops assail you - butchers, clothing, bakers, sweet and spice stalls etc. Damascus and the less used St Stephen's (also known as Lion's) gates are the main access/egress points for this section. Damascus gate epitomises the melee of the quarter, with thousands of people leaving and entering the city throughout the day.

There are some stunning examples of Mamluk architecture (13-16th centuries) here - but it's difficult to get the full 'picture' in such an enclosed space. There are a number of Christian sites within this quarter, with Via Dolorosa intersecting the quarter and leading down to St Stephen's Gate - as area that is considerably more spacious than its Damascus counterpart. Many of the narrow streets are grafitti'ed in the green of Hamas.

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The former Crusaders hospital, the Muristan is now a warren of alleys and converted buildings, mostly housing restaurants, cafes and stalls definately targetting the tourist dollar.

Moreorless in the shadow of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Church of St John the Baptist, there is a surprisingly open 'square' in this part of the old city (and is overlooked by Papa Andrea's Cafe - see separate restaurant tip).

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The present day Dormition Abbey was built by German Benedicts in the early 20th century (1901-10) following the Ottomans presenting the land to their German allies and celebrating the visit by Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1898.

The site is regarded by Catholics as the place of the death and ascendancy by the Virgin Mary and as a result has been the location for a number of churches, including the Hagia Sion built by the Byzantines.

The Arab conquest in the 7th century saw the site remain in ruins for 500 years before the Crusaders rebuilt many of the structures on Mount Zion, but further Muslim conquests saw further destruction. In its ruinous state, it was left outside the building of the walls in the 16th century.

Today the modern structure contains the floor mosaic from the Byzantine church, with its full name – Dormitio Beatae Mariae Virginis (The Sleep of the Virgin Mary) celebrating its believed importance. The relatively austere interior (for a catholic chapel) is decorated with wall mosaics and below, in the crypt, is the tomb dedicated to Mary.

The Abbey frequently hosts chamber music and choral concerts.

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The map found at Madaba in Jordan shows that the single dominant feature of Roman Jerusalem was the Cardo, that ran from Damascus Gate through to an unknown point to the south (although believed to be the current old city walls).

The Cardo was the dominant north-south axis of any Roman town, normally approximately 22.5 metres wide (a six-lane highway!!) lined with shops, public galleries, religious buildings, vendors and was the economic hub of every town.

A map of the current Old City shows the route of the Cardo running from Damascus Gate and what is now Souk Khan el Zeit and onto Jewish Quarter Road. But what was once a wide avenue is now a narrow, Arab-style marketplace with the original pavement several metres below the current level.

Remains of the Byzantine Cardo were discovered in 1970s and within the Jewish Quarter a strip of shops have been built into the originals that lined the street several hundred years ago.

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One of the most private parts of the Old City, the Armenian Quarter is dominated by high walls with little opportunity to see beyond. The Cathedral of St James is a case in point - only the inner front entrance and inner courtyard are accessible to the general public.

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A Franciscan monastery, the clock tower of its church is one of the tallest buildings in the Old City and can be readily seen from a distance. It's virtually all 19th century and, to be honest, not that interesting compared to many of the other churches and monasteries in the Old City.

It's to be found in the north western corner of the city, within the Christian Quarter and near to New Gate.

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Just inside the city walls less than 50 metres from Lion's Gate is the Church of St Anne and the ruins of Bethesda Pool.

The church, built between 1131 and 1138 by the Crusaders, is found atop what is believed to be the birthplace of Hannah, mother of Mary and grandmother of Christ. Unlike most christian churches, it was not destroyed by the Ottomans, and most of what we see today is original (with some restoration from the late 19th century),

Acoustics in the church are reported as pitch perfect and its become a site of pilgrimage specifically for the singing or religious songs (of any denomination).

Beyond the church are the ruins of the Bethesda Pool and a Roman temple, as well as the foundations of the original Byzantine church that stood on the site.

It can be quite a shock coming through the gate in the wall and seeing the courtyard, garden, church and ruins spread out before you - a hidden enclave behind the walls.

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Sitting atop each other in the same building is the holy Jewish site of King David' tomb and the location of The Last Supper.

As with anything related to such history, nothing is absolutely certain. It is believed that the tomb is unlikely to be the real thing and no-one knows for certain exactly where (or if) the last supper before Christ's betrayal took place. And if either/both is/are true, things have much changed since in the 2-3,000 years that have since past.

The Coenaculum in particular has changed enormously, coming as it did both under Muslim and Crusader (and back to Arab) rule - arabic script is to be found on the walls and stained glass windows, the direction of Mecca is very apparent. But thousands of Christian pilgrims and curious tourists pass through the room - get there early (free entry) to avoid the crowds.

David's tomb attracts the devout more than the curious as the whole is surprisingly low key, with the tomb itself covered.