Sidon Things to Do

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Built in 1592 by Sheikh Ali bin Mohammad bin Qtaysh, it is one of the oldest mosques in Sidon. From outside, it looks like it has gone through painstaking restoration. It is surrounded by an aromatic lemon garden where its builder is buried.

I didn't get the chance to visit inside, which is said to have two lovely Roman granite columns and a sculpted marble mihrab (niche pointing to the direction of Mecca).

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Another blast from past is the Emir Fakhreddine II Palace, or rather what is left of it. Although situated in a very scenic seaside location, the palace's ruined state does not match the greatness of the man who built it.

Fakhreddine II was the first prince of Lebanon under the Ottoman Empire. He came from a local Druze family, and his reign was characterized by economic and cultural prosperity. He called for independence from the Ottoman rule, for which he paid the ultimate sacrifice. He is considered as Lebanon's first true nationalist.

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The other hamam that I saw was the Hamam El-Sheikh, still functional and also lovingly restored. I got a chance to see the interiors - at least the lounge area - and I was impressed by the 3-storey high dome ceiling. From the outside, the building looks like any other building (boringly brown, I must say) but getting in and seeing for yourself just a fabulous architecture is so inspiring - and this is for a bathhouse.

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Although parts of it had been dolled up, courtesy of the Hariri Foundation, the souk in Sidon is one of Middle East's great souk in terms of authenticity of experience. The trades are mainly for locals, with hardly any tourist souvenir shops (in fact, I haven't seen any). This gives the visitor the chance to peek into local ways - and most of all, connect with the locals, many speaking English.

I did get the chance to do this - peek into a local furniture shop, and chat with locals in a barbershop (pictures 1 and 2). In between, the best way to explore the souk is to get lost in the labyrinthine alleys and just soak in the local vibe.

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Besides the souk and the old city, the Sea Castle is Sidon's centerpiece attraction, partly because of its grand location - on a small island across Sidon's waterfront promenade. The island has a special significance to the early Phoenicians - a temple dedicated to their local god Melkart, Hercules' Phoenician counterpart - was built on the same site.

Another "legacy" of the Crusaders, the castle was built in 1228, was destroyed by the Mamluks when they took over the city. Fakhreddine ordered its restoration in the 17th century.

The ruins are worth at least an hour of exploration, but I specifically liked the roof which affords grand views of the city and the harbor. Don't be shy about exploring seemingly hidden nooks and crannies, you might get some nice surprise - or embarrassment (read: a couple making out!). Another tip: arrive early so that you can have the place to yourself - that is if you don't mind sharing it with some couples - before the busloads of day trip tourists from Beirut arrive.

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This was originally an edifice built by the Knights Hospitallers during the Crusades, but was converted to a mosque after they were driven out by the Arabs, who did quite a good job in doing so - the mosque is considered one of the finest examples of 13th century Islamic architecture.

One of the distinctive features of the mosque are the two mihrabs - niches pointing to the direction of Mecca - in the main prayer hall, which used to be the Church of St John of the Hospitallers. Most moques only have one mihrab.

Damaged heavily during the civil war, the mosque has been painstakingly restored and is open to all, non-Muslims included (please dress appropriately). It is such a peaceful place to visit, which is quite a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of the souk outside.

The Latin Church - Roman Catholic Church to you and me - is located inside the old city, just across the Khan Al-Franj. It was built in the mid-19th century, fairly recent by Sidon standards, by the Franciscan friars when they were housed at the Khan Al-Franj. It remains a fully functional church, named after the Lady of Annunciation, and has an adjunct school. The school year was in full swing at the time of my visit, and it was interesting to see a different side of the Middle East - a functioning Roman Catholic school - just another reminder of the diversity of Lebanon's population.

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Translated "Caravanserai of the French," Khan Al-Franj is it is, what it is - a khan for foreign traders given by the French to the 17th century ruler of Sidon, Fakhreddine. Back in its heydays, Khan Al-Franj was the city's focal point for business, also housing the French consul's office (and I thought they've given this to Fakhreddine?). It is the most well-preserved khan in Sidon, providing visitors with a glimpse of a typical khan - with a bit of flair.

A quadrilateral two-storey structure surrounds the central courtyard, with shaded porticoes at the ground floor for stables and storage. This is in keeping with the multi-function of the khans, which is to provide accommodation facilities for foreign traders and their animals, while at the same time doing business within the area itself. Exploring the place, one could only imagine the high-octane trading environment that used to prevail within this place.